Picture to light although taken in auto (Page 2): You are shooting at 1/250 sec. at 600mm. And your shooting on a cropped sensor camera, so you are actually shooting a field of view of...

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

tuomi1947 wrote:

Does this help .?

You are shooting at 1/250 sec. at 600mm. And your shooting on a cropped sensor camera, so you are actually shooting a field of view of 900mm at 1/250 sec. so
1. you minimum shutter speed hand held should be 1/focal length of the lens, ie. 1/900 sec. for a 900 mm lens.
2. iso of 5000 on that camera is sort of high.
3. if the engine of the car was running that adds to the vibration of the camera.
4. were you using VR?
5. you may have been in a situation where you could not stay for long on the road, but you would have been better off outside the car on a tripod.
6. if you shoot through the window that is another no no, better roll the window down (now I have dated myself) put a cloth on the door edge and set the lens on that for support.
7. I believe your camera has a VIVID control, it is in the PHOTO SHOOTING MENU under SET PICTURE CONTROL, the vivid control can add some contrast to that long lens and may help
Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.

BebuLamar

Grahame wrote:

Not sure how you deduce that because the image data posted shows Exposure Bias 0

There is no image data posted for the second one that appears a correct/or corrected exposure.

I am sorry I didn't see that. If the meter is in spot mode it could be a problem but where would the spot be to get that exposure? I don't see anywhere in the picture where it's medium tone. Certainly not in the center of the frame.

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Except that he was shooting at 1/1250 second... And he said he shot in Auto mode, not in an auto or through a window glass. And I don’t think he said anything about a road or roadside...

billnikon wrote:

You are shooting at 1/250 sec. at 600mm. And your ... (show quote)

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

tuomi1947 wrote:

I am useing a Nikon 7200 with a tamron 150-600 at 600mm , shot is very light I took it on auto , how to correct when taking shot , I did some correction with light room .picture is better the closer I get ?

The rookery looks great. Looking at you histogram, you did expose it correctly, even if it was by accident. What you don't want is the right side of the histogram to start climbing up the right edge. You probably could have used ISO 2500 with the same aperture and shutter speed and gotten a good image as well.

I normally shoot raw, and would have used the spot meter in the camera to read the lightest area of importance in which I wanted to have detail, and added 1-2/3 stops additional exposure to it. I usually shoot manual exposure for static subjects like these.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Notorious T.O.D. wrote:

Except that he was shooting at 1/1250 second...

DUH

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

It’s still early some places Bill...😎

billnikon wrote:

DUH

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Notorious T.O.D. wrote:

It’s still early some places Bill...😎

I just made an appointment with my optometrist.

bleirer

I keep going back to the image with the histogram. It is bunched up, telling me it recorded a low contrast scene. As mentioned you haven't lost detail off the right side, but the histogram has nothing in the blacks or shadows region even though my eyes tell me the woods are in shadow. So if I was using Lightroom or ps I would drag the blacks slider left until it blinked then drag the shadows slider to the right a bit. Or even get more dramatic by resetting the black point and white point. So you have to see what your software will allow you to do. It is not a high key image but the histogram looks like one, so try to get the histogram to use more of the far left and middle left. You might reduce the exposure slider until the peaks are more in the middle then increase contrast a lot.

big-guy Loc: Peterborough Ontario Canada

tuomi1947 wrote:

Does this help .?

You know what would really help? Clicking "Store Original" when posting your photos. Then we have all the information and don't need to rely on itty bitty screen shots (that also are not stored so we have to get out the magnifying glass to read)

Oly Guy

Try controlling some of the factors-maybe shoot on S for shutter speed and set iso at 400 to 1,000 see manual for directions or take a class at the camera shop where you bought the camera-to get more control of the results..and ask questions on how to control your results by learning the camera.

BebuLamar

I still don't know why the shot was like that. As Gene said the exposure is good and simply reducing the exposure in post would result in very good exposure. However, I do not expect the image to be like that. If my camera does that I want to find out why because it's not right.

bleirer

BebuLamar wrote:

I still don't know why the shot was like that. As Gene said the exposure is good and simply reducing the exposure in post would result in very good exposure. However, I do not expect the image to be like that. If my camera does that I want to find out why because it's not right.

I also don't get why auto would push the ISO up to 5000 forcing the shutter to 1250. On my camera auto tries to set the ISO so the shutter falls around 1 over focal length. I guess every camera has its own algorithm for auto.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

tuomi1947 wrote:

I am useing a Nikon 7200 with a tamron 150-600 at 600mm , shot is very light I took it on auto , how to correct when taking shot , I did some correction with light room .picture is better the closer I get ?

I agree with Gene51 that the image can still be made good. Auto may not have been the best setting for this shot, but it did capture the full range. You might want to check how you metering is set up. I know it is extremely easy for me to set the spot meter off center and then forget that I have done so. It doesn't hurt me as much since I am mirrorless, in Program mode, and can change the image in the electronic viewfinder to an acceptable image. But having the spot meter in a different place other than center can cause some odd inappropriate settings for a particular shot. It usually causes me to scratch my head until I finally figure out I "misplaced" my spotmetering spot.

BebuLamar

bleirer wrote:

I also don't get why auto would push the ISO up to 5000 forcing the shutter to 1250. On my camera auto tries to set the ISO so the shutter falls around 1 over focal length. I guess every camera has its own algorithm for auto.

I think the 1/ focal length rule would be 1/600 but if it compensate for being an APS-C it's 1/900 so the 1/1250 is reasonable.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

bleirer wrote:

I keep going back to the image with the histogram.... (show quote)

Exactly. It’s not so much overexposed as it has very low dynamic range and contrast with no black or shadow information. Does your camera have menu settings for image characteristics when in auto, such as sharpness and contrast, etc? If so, how is the contrast set? The image has pretty fair dynamic range between the white tree bark and the dark forest - I would expect the histogram to be spread across the entire scale if properly exposed instead of the way it is with nothing in the left third.