A phone camera with its very short focal length offers a very good DOF for close up photography. A true macro lens would probably give the best results for your DSLR. But DOF will still be a challenge compared to the phone camera.
Every lens has a 'minimum focusing distance'. Your lens isn't a macro lens, even with extension tubes, you'll need to get further back from your subject, until the minimum focusing distance for your lens is reached.
Try your camera in Program mode and use the Macro setting. That's what the IPhone does.
am doing that with a old D300 and a 36 mm tube and various lenses , get good result .you need to shot at f11 or 16 , so , you need a lot of light .so , you may need to raise the iso to 1000 or more , a speed of 150 / sec would be ok [ hand held ].the best lens i have for this is a 28/300 tamron , but others also work , like a 28 / 90 .
Screamin Scott wrote:
The amount of light has no bearing on DOF and AF is pretty much useless the closer you get to life size as the DOF is so thin that the AF doesn't know what should be in focus.
Let me clarify this.... If you have more light, that allows you to stop down the aperture thus increasing the DOF. It's the aperture, focal length of the lens and distance to the subject that determines the DOF
The amount of light enables you to raise you fstop from saw f2.8 or so to say f8f8 has a larger depth of field while improve what in focus.
Screamin Scott wrote:
It's the aperture, focal length of the lens and distance to the subject that determines the DOF
Depth of field is determined by the magnification ratio and aperture, regardless of the focal length of the lens and distance to the subject.
RWR wrote:
Depth of field is determined by the magnification ratio and aperture, regardless of the focal length of the lens and distance to the subject.
You might want to plug in different focal lengths and distances into this DOF calculator and see the corresponding difference in DOF
https://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
I nominate this thread for the UHH Misinformation Hall of Fame.
Here is some of the advice for macro photography:
- The best lens for macro is a 28/300 zoom lens.
- Use a cellphone.
- Short focal lengths give very good depth of field.
- Get further back from your subject.
- Try the camera's Program mode.
- Use the Macro setting on your camera.
- Use auto ISO when the light is low.
- Use f/8 for maximum depth of field.
- Don't use extension tubes, they are not good for macro.
- Buy a macro lens.
- Getting closer to the subject does not decrease depth of field.
- Diffuse lighting reduces the sharpness of the photo.
- Use an ISO setting of 1000.
Thatβs a good calculator - agrees pretty much with the depth of field scales on most of my manual focus lenses. But Iβm thinking of close up and macro work for which, for me at least, the reproduction ratio - subject size - is the first consideration when setting up a shot. This calculator shows that for a given ratio and f/stop, focal length only changes the subject distance:
http://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof-macroYou do have to fiddle with extensions and focal lengths to get the desired ratio readout, though. Iβd really like to see one where you just plug in the ratio and aperture to get the depth of field.
RWR wrote:
This calculator shows that for a given ratio and f/stop, focal length only changes the subject distance:
http://www.photopills.com/calculators/dof-macroYou do have to fiddle with extensions and focal lengths to get the desired ratio readout, though.
That's just the calculator I've been looking for! What's "fiddly" about it?
Leitz wrote:
That's just the calculator I've been looking for! What's "fiddly" about it?
Itβs simple when you know the extension and focal length and only need to know the depth of field at the resultant ratio, but when you reverse mount or stack lenses you have to photograph a scale to know the exact ratio, then by trial and error plug in an extension and/or focal length to get that ratio in order to know the depth of field.
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