Is Bracketing Really Necessary?
May 5, 2019 17:17:45 #
catchlight..
Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway
RAW is a file format that captures all image data recorded by the sensor when you take the photo. When shooting in a format like JPEG, image information is compressed and lost.
For casual photographers who prefer not to edit, Jpeg is fine, but it is not in any way equal with what is possible in RAW.
For casual photographers who prefer not to edit, Jpeg is fine, but it is not in any way equal with what is possible in RAW.
May 5, 2019 17:17:56 #
Linda From Maine wrote:
Exposure bracketing, or are you thinking of burst mode?
To the OP: once I started shooting raw, I gave up bracketing. There is so much leeway in editing as long as you don't blow your highlights in the original exposure (as is preached loudly and often on these pages
).
To the OP: once I started shooting raw, I gave up bracketing. There is so much leeway in editing as long as you don't blow your highlights in the original exposure (as is preached loudly and often on these pages
).
May 5, 2019 17:21:07 #
pico wrote:
I've experimented with bracketing using three exposures. What is gained in the post-processing as a result of bracketing? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences.
I buy insurance for my cars, house and other things. The last thing I want to do is get back from a trip and find that I have over or under exposed my images, especially if its a keeper. Since a lot of what I do only allows a very short time to get a shot, I often bracket. That's my very cheap insurance that I don't come home disappointed that I didn't get my exposure right. Space on a memory card is very cheap and reusable.
If I'm on a tripod and/or have plenty of time, then I normally won't bracket unless my histogram or spot meter says I'm close to the DR of the camera.
May 5, 2019 17:23:29 #
catchlight..
Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway
CatMarley wrote:
With the Fuji, bracketing is irrelevant since you can see the exposure in the viewfinder.
I use my x100F daily as a walk around and also prefer it for pro indoor shooting. One of the great features is the 3 bracket display in the view finder after the shot.
Look in your quick button mode toggle for the bracket feature.
May 5, 2019 18:26:20 #
josquin1
Loc: Massachusetts
Didn't Ansel Adams invent the Zone System so one does not have to bracket? Just saying.
May 5, 2019 18:29:31 #
josquin1 wrote:
Didn't Ansel Adams invent the Zone System so one does not have to bracket? Just saying.
Yes, but not all of us are Ansel Adams photographers.
May 5, 2019 18:40:03 #
May 5, 2019 18:45:45 #
pico wrote:
It depends on what you're after, If HDR is what you want, than yeah, bracketing is absolutely necessary!I've experimented with bracketing using three exposures. What is gained in the post-processing as a result of bracketing? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences.
May 5, 2019 18:48:41 #
larryepage
Loc: North Texas area
As I continue to read posts here, it occurs to me to ask just what everyone means when they say "bracketing?"
It seems that many are using the word to replace the phrase "taking bracketed photographs with the intention of doing HDR stacking."
That's not at all what I mean when I just say "bracketing."
Is it possible for us to get recalibrated here?
It seems that many are using the word to replace the phrase "taking bracketed photographs with the intention of doing HDR stacking."
That's not at all what I mean when I just say "bracketing."
Is it possible for us to get recalibrated here?
May 5, 2019 18:52:07 #
wdross
Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado
josquin1 wrote:
Didn't Ansel Adams invent the Zone System so one does not have to bracket? Just saying.
As papakatz45 said. And I suspect Ansel Adams would not hesitate to use bracketing if he met a scene that was beyond the normal zone system. Plus, film records differently than digital. Film records highlights better than digital. And digital records shadows better than film. This would have more that likely caused Adams to design his zone system slightly different.
May 5, 2019 18:57:52 #
May 5, 2019 19:24:11 #
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
wdross wrote:
You are correct in that the image is seen correctly exposed before the shot is taken. But I am sure that Fuji includes bracketing just in case the image being captured goes beyond the dynamic range of the sensor.
However, you can see the dynamic range in the viewfinder of the Fuji BEFORE you trip the shutter. You get exactly what you see in the view finder in the final image.
May 5, 2019 19:31:47 #
Automatic exposure bracketing is just a feature that most cameras offer, along with dozens of other features. It's not a test of skill or manliness. Use it if it helps you, ignore it if it doesn't. Of course, you can just bracket the old fashioned way by adjusting parameters between shots. I don't personally use it much anymore, but when I was getting started, I found it quite helpful as a learning device. It was instructive to scrutinize carefully the three images to illustrate the subtle (and sometimes not so subtle) changes.
Almost everyone has been talking about exposure bracketing; but focus bracketing can be a very useful technique as well, especially when using very shallow depth of field, or focusing on objects that are extremely close. Sometimes, I like to intentionally focus not on the subject but slightly behind it, then I slowly turn the focusing ring on my lens as I take several images in a row.
Almost everyone has been talking about exposure bracketing; but focus bracketing can be a very useful technique as well, especially when using very shallow depth of field, or focusing on objects that are extremely close. Sometimes, I like to intentionally focus not on the subject but slightly behind it, then I slowly turn the focusing ring on my lens as I take several images in a row.
May 5, 2019 20:56:53 #
Like Linda of Maine, I've come to realize that bracketing isn't really necessary if you shoot raw and expose for the highlights. Depending on the light I've found that I usually get good results by underexposing 2/3 of a stop. This is in bright daylight with shadows.
I was shooting indoors in museum lighting recently and found I could get best results by underexposing 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. I could bring out the portions in shadow easily in PP and make a slight adjustment for noise. I have an older camera, Canon 60D, so someone with a full frame newer camera is going to have a lot less noise. My indoor shots I mentioned above worked out pretty well, not art but a decent shot to document where I had been for the future.
I do bracket when I have really difficult light and I want to get something in the bright areas and good quality in the shadows. This works best in a scene where there isn't much movement.
I was shooting indoors in museum lighting recently and found I could get best results by underexposing 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop. I could bring out the portions in shadow easily in PP and make a slight adjustment for noise. I have an older camera, Canon 60D, so someone with a full frame newer camera is going to have a lot less noise. My indoor shots I mentioned above worked out pretty well, not art but a decent shot to document where I had been for the future.
I do bracket when I have really difficult light and I want to get something in the bright areas and good quality in the shadows. This works best in a scene where there isn't much movement.
May 5, 2019 22:34:22 #
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