kodachrome slides (Page 6): StaticMaster will be fine. You are in great shape with equipment; apparently you are not so well off with time. Answer here: retire at the first instant you...

0627ramram32 Loc: Orange County, CA, USA

StaticMaster will be fine. You are in great shape with equipment; apparently you are not so well off with time. Answer here: retire at the first instant you can even if you're a little shakey with the idea. It's WONDERFUL!!!

ArgusSnap1 Loc: Indiana

Thanks for the reply about the Static-Master Brush. This article has been great with all the information !

dbl-nkl Loc: British Columbia

I use a very soft makeup natural hairs brush and "heavy breathing"; exercise for my lungs and cheek muscles.

Granted, my eyesight is not perfect but the dust is 95% gone.

Software eliminates the remainder.

Don't have a perfect solution for scratches.

2bob Loc: Sydney, Australia

dbl-nkl wrote:

I use a very soft makeup natural hairs brush and "heavy breathing"; exercise for my lungs and cheek muscles.

Granted, my eyesight is not perfect but the dust is 95% gone.

Software eliminates the remainder.

Don't have a perfect solution for scratches.

As I mentioned in my original post, after much experimentation and some previous dark room experience, I too found careful brushing (I use a brush/ blower combination that I purchased 35 years ago) to be the easiest and safest option to clean film before scanning. Very little post processing is required to clean up said film. Colour (Aust spelling) correction and fading are separate issues. Fortunately most of my film has survived well so even there only occasional PP is required. This too is straight forward once we know how. In essence, converting film to high quality digital requires some home work and time. And a decent scanning method. Almost exact replication of the original is possible these days at home.

Papa Joe Loc: Midwest U.S.

dbl-nkl wrote:

I use a very soft makeup natural hairs brush and "heavy breathing"; exercise for my lungs and cheek muscles.

Granted, my eyesight is not perfect but the dust is 95% gone.

Software eliminates the remainder.

Don't have a perfect solution for scratches.

I cringe, even recalling what we used to do many years ago, in the B&W era! If nothing was important aside from getting a decent print, we actually minimized, and many times eliminated serious scratched on the negatives by smearing Vaseline over the entire negative. Of course, all we wanted was a decent print, and the heck with the negative. Then we could copy the good print and get a decent negative. Crude, but it worked. NO! I'm not suggesting anyone smear their treasured slides like that. Just a memory of how we dealt with scratches.

romanticf16 Loc: Commerce Twp, MI

Mortimer Levy wrote:

Well, I've got about 30,000 KChromes over 60 years of shooting. Some are award winning. and I wanted to download them and then make CD's for posterity..

CD's are not archival- Good DVD's have a much longer life than CD's. Copies on Hard Drives are a great alternative, BUT they need to be run through every so many months- they can't just sit for years or the magnetic disks will get corrupted. Your original KChromes stand the best chance for archival lifespan if stored in a cool, humidity controlled storage.

romanticf16 Loc: Commerce Twp, MI

Papa Joe wrote:

quote=dbl-nkl I use a very soft makeup natural ha... (show quote)

In the days of Dye Transfer printing the technique for making separation negatives from small transparencies was to clean them with Kodak Film Cleaner, them float them in mineral oil in a special glass carrier and use a point light source bulb and R,G,&B cutting filters to expose sheets of sep neg film.

lsenalik

You never know what capabilities exist within your own photo club. I am currently scanning a negative collection for a client, 7,000+ pictures so far. I also bought 100+ old slides from the 50's and 60's that I am working on also.

davidmerlin

Hi. I am in the same boat with a large qty of VN era Kodachrome slides with the same problem you describe. If still available, I would greatly appreciate receiving a copy of the Polaroid software.

Thanks!
David

dnelms@wildblue.net