R.G. Loc: Scotland

if you aren't getting the results you want, you have two options - use a smaller aperture (if possible) or use a wider lens. With a smaller aperture, diffraction will probably mean that nothing will be sharp. However, with a wider angle lens you'll have significantly more DOF. Combine that with use of hyperfocal distance for choosing a suitable focus point and you should be able to get whatever results you were envisaging. It shouldn't be hard to find a crop sensor lens with a FL that includes 16mm or 18mm - even wider if you can get it.

In the tutorials that you mention, 35mm refers to a full frame lens. For your Rebel the equivalent focal length would be ~24mm (or less). If you're using 35mm on your Rebel, that's the FF equivalent of approx. 50mm, which would be described as neutral or natural but NOT wide angle.

At 16mm and f/22 you'll find that the hyperfocal distance is 0.6 meters (~2ft) from the camera and the DOF will start roughly 1ft from the camera. At f/16 and 16mm the figures are roughly 2ft 8" and 1ft 4". If your lens has a minimum FL of 18mm the figures won't be much different from that.

THIS is a link to an explanation and a calculator for hyperfocal distance.

One possibility is to choose a focus point that is between your nearest and your farthest subjects, making sure that the DOF comes back towards you far enough to include the nearest subject. Using that technique you would have to have some way to achieve focus lock on an object at the required distance, then recompose while maintaining the focus lock. Back button focus is one way, getting focus lock and then switching the lens from AF to MF is another. On the other hand, a properly wide angle lens (as described) gives so much DOF that focusing on the nearest subject will be fine (unless it's closer than the hyperfocal distance, but that will be REALLY close).

Sidwalkastronomy Loc: New Jersey Shore

In the old days people spoke about dof being 1/3 in front and 2/3 behind. Never understood optics of that

srg

Acoarst it was 🤣😂

MJPerini

I think what you are referring to as forced perspective is almost always done with Tilt/Shift lenses as was pointed out above. If you look up Scheimpflug adjustments you will find how to manipulate the orientation of the lens's plane of sharp focus for different effects (from unlimited DOF to highly selective DOF)
Most lenses with Tilt ability, have rotating lens mounts so that vertical tilt can be used as horizontal swing (or any intermediate angle) It gives your camera limited view camera capabilities.

StanMac Loc: Tennessee

You can add another favorite word of his is "acoarst" (another non-word) which according to his usage apparently means "of course".

Stan

srg

Acoarst it can also be considered a type of Attention Deficit Disorder.
No matter how strenuously he raised his hand, his mother never paid him any attention.
That's why he craves attention from anonymous strangers on old folks social media.
It's still cute though. To some, I guess.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

glitch- DELETED

Sidwalkastronomy Loc: New Jersey Shore

Is English his second language or he thinks his a hipster.
He's a f__kin a__hole

SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA

As has been pointed out on your crop sensor camera you need to go much wider than 35mm. Still at 35mm and f/22 if you focus at the hyperfocal distance of just under 10’ your DOF should be from about 4’9” to infinity. If you’re looking through the lens not everything will be in focus because you’re looking through the lens wide open. With a true wide angle lens you should get plenty of DOF at f/16. Above that you’ll have diffraction.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

Forced perspective photography - LINK.

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But thaz not gonna increase DoF :-(

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Even if the OP has no clue about SLR viewfinders, dont you think he would judge results by the playback screen ?

This is UHH so I could be dead wrong about that, but I do think its halfway semisafe to expect he judges actual output rather than the SLR focusing screen image ...

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Lookin at Sidewalkastro and srg chatting online about other folks use of language. Seems dullard minds are easily amuzed. Maybe if they knew anything at all about photography theyd discuss that instead.

(Download)

Timmers Loc: San Antonio Texas.

The basics, this is called hyperfocal distance. That said if you are not strong with math and all that stuff, in the "old days" it was done differently and much more easily. I still do this and I don't hardly focus a camera lens and get perfect results every time. Though this seems a tall order it is actually a simple technique.

Here is how it is done, but first, most modern/digital lenses make this complicated to near imposable and that is why I use old photographic lenses. First, to make this vary easy and rapid I will often place a piece of making tape around the barrel of the lens, and I place ink marks on the tape. You will find two sets of markings on these lens barrels. One is the distance the lens is focused upon (this is what I cover with the tape. Then there are the f-stops and these begin with the widest aperture (f stop) shown and these move towards the smallest aperture. Note, they are shown as two sets moving around the lens.

To make this work you simply choose the thing that will be the closest object to be in focus and place a mark on the tape opposite the 'in focus' mark on the lens barrel. Now look at what you want as the furthest point that you want in sharp focus and place a mark on the tape at this point opposite the 'in focus' pointer.

Now rock the lens barrel back and forth until the two marks fall in between a common f stop on the lens barrel. You have now set that lens to the perfect place that will deliver any and all objects in focus for your chosen close and far objects at the place where you are standing (or the place where the camera/lens are placed.

The lens has been set at the proper hyper focal distance for that place using the lens and f-stop combination and you needed to do NO CALCULATION or running around to get the photograph made. Note: Hyper focal distance is just a tech term, you don't need to get all involved with a lot of technology to make the image. It is how photographers use to do photography and some of us still make images.

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Well acoarst. Youve never understood much anywho, so itz par for the curse.