gvarner wrote:
I taught my daughters to drive with a stick shift. They had no problem transitioning to an automatic and they can easily drive both. My granddaughter learned how to drive with an automatic. She never got the hang of it when I tried to teach her how to drive a stick shift. I see a lesson here for those who want to teach a newbie.
Full "Auto" on many cameras dictates far more than just exposure. Depending upon the camera model, it may also limit the autofocus settings, the type of file that will be saved or even cause the flash to pop up and fire in lower light conditions, whether you want it or not. In most cases it also prevents you from using Exposure Compensation, which is an important tool to learn.
More practical "easy" exposure method on most cameras is "P" or "Program" Auto Exposure (AE). The photographer sets the ISO and the camera picks both the aperture and the shutter speed. Most are designed to take into account the lens focal length and base shutter speed upon that, too. Exposure Compensation can be used to override what the camera sets, if needed. Autofocus settings are up to the photographer. They also can choose to save RAW files, if they wish. And whether the flash is used is also left to the photographer.
I don't know about other manufacturers, but Canon also has "CA" or "Creative Auto". This allows the photographer to change settings, but gives them guidance with "wizards" on the rear LCD. For example, if you are setting the aperture it will tell you that larger aperture makes for shallower depth of field, while smaller aperture will render deeper DoF.
Ideally people would learn to use all the different exposure modes, as well as how to override them, how to recognize when some tweaks are needed.
Aperture Priority AE and Shutter Priority AE each have their uses... Choose the aperture when DoF is a concern, or select the shutter speed if wanting to freezing movement or choosing to have motion blur occur.
Today we also have M + Auto ISO AE to work with. Yes, this is another form of AE, in spite of the "M" in the title. Here the photographer can choose both the aperture and shutter, but leave it to the camera to select an ISO that it thinks is correct for the situation.
M without Auto ISO and "B" or "Bulb" for really long exposures are the only truly manual exposure methods, when the photographer exercises the most complete control over all aspects of exposure. (Note: If using modern dedicated flash, auto exposure still might be occurring... even with the camera set to "M"!)
On most cameras full "Auto" is a "point n shoot" mode. A beginner DSLR or mirrorless user coming from phone camera or a compact point n shoot camera might find Auto comfortable initially, but should explore the other possibilities as soon as possible. Otherwise, why would they want the more complex but more capable camera? Well, maybe they just wanted the ability to interchange lenses, which their point n shoot lacked. It can be pretty intimidating at first, learning the other exposure modes. But, hey, we all were clueless at one time and had to gradually learn to use our cameras more fully.
So, no, I don't think learning "M" first is necessarily the way to go with modern cameras. Forcing someone to learn to use a camera that way might seem so overwhelming they just give up and walk away. I don't think the comparison of driving with stick shift versus automatic transmission is valid when it comes to cameras.
P.S. I know some people use Auto ISO all the time... not only with M, but also with Program, Shutter Priority and Aperture Priority AE. Personally I think that's a bad idea. I prefer an auto exposure mode where there is just one variable... that's more predictable and controllable. For the same reason I rarely use P (two variables left to the camera), I only use Auto ISO with M. But, hey, that's just me. You do whatever works for you.