Alphabravo2020

I'm not sure exactly what you were looking for in terms of "3D", but a 3D type effect can be obtained with a tilt-shift lens. Some probably consider this to be a gimmick but here is an example of what this type of lens does to a landscape. Obviously you lose focus on much of the scene.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Hint: Best to use "Quote Reply" so people will know to whom you are responding.

Pinenutz 1

Great advice!
Thank you!
I appreciate it!

Haydon

Longshadow offers a concise reason for the flatness. Time of day. Choose either as the sun breaks or as the sun sets. This will give you shadow and drama.

Pinenutz 1

Never thought of that.
Was too concerned about not going too early and getting back too late.
113 miles away.
I should know better.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Good question!

If you want to create dimensionally, that is create the illusion of the third dimension on a two-dimensional sheet of photographic paper or a flat screen, there are a few important concepts to consider.

Lighting is of the utmost importance. Whether you are shooting a portrait, an object or a landscape, the play of light and shadow on the subject enables modelling and this is the illusion of form, depth and texture- all of which is anti-flatness. Of course, you can not move the landscape in relation to the sun or skylight so all you can do is wait until the lighting direction changes or change your point of view. If the sun or the major source of skylight is behind the camera or pretty close to the camera/subject axis, some flatness may occur.

Focal length choice is another issue that can cause some degree of flatness. It does not apply in this case in that your focal length is in the 30mm range. Perspective is affected or changes by distance, not by any particular focal length but if you use a very long lens, the distance required to frame your landscape can be such that compresses the distance, visually, between the foreground, middle ground and background.

Point of view. It may seem old school or a picture-postcard kida thing but foreground framing, that is including an element in the foreground, a tree, foliage, an archway, a building, etc. can add more depth to the image. If the foreground element or the foreground itself is slightly darker than the middle ground and the subject, that tends to lead the eye to the motif of the image and create more depth.

Sharpness is not necessarily an element in creating dimension- a soft image can still have depth, however poor focus or blur due to camera movement at slower shutter speeds can diminish detail and texture which adds to realism and tactility in the image. Your EXIF data reveals a slower shutter speed and a small aperture which may have caused a bit of diffraction that may also impair general picture quality. If you wis to extend the exposure for stopping down for depth of field or for utilizing intention blur in waterfalls, etc., be sure to use a tripod and a cable release or remote trigger, to minimize the potential for blur. Focus carefully and preview your depth of field if requried.

Composition. The old rule about layers- a foreground, middle, ground and background can be effective. You do not have to conform to every rule or elementary concept but oftentimes they actually work, My own working concept is to first go with the traditional method and then try variation and opposing concepts and see what works best. When you come across a magnificent view as you have in your image, it pays off to take the extra time to apply careful techniques and shoot for various points of view and perhaps wait or return when the light changes- if possible!

There is no feature or attribute in any camera or lens that can control the usage of light, the point of view or the composition. You can do good work with the gear you are using if you apply some of the aforementioned principles.

I hope this helps!

Pinenutz 1

Pinenutz 1

Fantastic advice!
I am going to print this and save it.
Thank you, thank you, thank you!

mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey

The image is very soft. Nothing is in sharp focus. More sharpness will help give you a greater sense of three dimensionality. I noted your image was captured at 1/10 of a second. Was your camera on a tripod or was it handheld? If it was handheld that would account for most of the lack of sharpness. Even if it was on a tripod why are you using such a slow shutter speed on a bright sunny day? Second, your aperture is set to f/22 which is probably the smallest aperture available on your lens at 33mm which is the focal length used for this image. Chances are good that you are having diffraction issues with your lower end kit lens at that f-stop which is causing additional softening of the image. Using an f stop of f/11 or no smaller than f/16 would probably have resulted in a sharper image. Until you fix your image capture problems, making adjustments in post processing will only be an unsatisfying bandaid.

Here is a copy of your image with added sharpening. It can't fix the issues with this images, but perhaps it will give you a better idea when the problem lies.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

I believe he means 'depth' in the photo, not the proverbial '3D'.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

👍👍 absolutely. The diffraction at f22 is killing the sharpness, and a higher shutter speed will reduce blur caused by camera shake.

mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey

Pinenutz 1

Thank you for your input!
I don't see the photo that you attached.
How do I see it?

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

I’d start at 1/60 at f11.

Pinenutz 1

Wow!
I like the suggestion!
I was trying not to get too much softness and used F22.
I didn't realize at the time that my shutter was 1/10.
I will work on this.
Thank you for the help!