[quote=Shooter41]After shooting test images at the Wichita Wings new indoor soccer practice field open tryouts last Sunday evening, I concluded that the good news was that my Sony A7R4 full frame camera would get an excellent exposure set on: (1) Manual (2) 1/640 second shutter speed to stop action; (3) aperature to F2.8 to let in as much light as possible without cropping highlights (4) I settled on an ISO of 6400 to get an acceptable histogram and shot off of a monopod. The bad news is I got a lot of noise in the dark shadow areas shooting at 6400 and only about eight feet of clarity in the depth of field at 109mm distance.
Nowadays, photographers obsess over "noise". Noise is analogous to "grain" which us dinosaur photogs used to obsess over in the '60s. Some time in the future, somebody may invent a truly "noiseless " camera sensor...but until then... you WILL find noise in the shadows...ignore it...the subject is the image, the rest of the photo is the frame!
You have a FINE camera and lens! You paid a large amount of money for equipment that is smarter than you are. (Me , too!) USE ITS CAPABILITIES!
A reasonable admonition would be, as in the sport you photograph so well..."BACK to basics, and EXECUTE!"
1.Get closer! However you can manage it.
2. Bryan Peterson, in one of his Adorama Videos, stated that 1/250 sec. was sufficient to stop motion. Maybe not, but 1/500 will do it nicely...in most cases.
3. Technique...brace yourself however you can. Elbows in against your body, not flapping, looking like a large, ungainly bird taking off! I've not had a lot of success with monopods, but you may.
4. D O F...you are right on, with your dof figure at i00 mm. The DofMaster website says that focused at 50 feet, 100 mm will give you about 8 1/2 feet ,@ f/2.8. and 200mm, only about 2.1 feet.
5. Forget Manual...you will not have time to change ISO/Aperture/Shutter speed, and will be playing catch-up!
My Nikon doesn't have the same advanced capability as your Sony, but they both have similar basic settings. Center focus point, Continuous focus, with as few of the surrounding auxiliary focus points as you can get away with. They allow the camera to follow the subject, should it get away from the center focus point. My camera has two that I use...9 almost always, and 21 sometimes.
6. Auto ISO is a goodness!
7. Pre photo...Set as much as you can before the action starts, take some experimental photeaux...write down what pleases you so you can evaluate later, and won't forget.(Don't ask how I know this!)
8. Metering...Matrix, or whatever else it may be called is great, but center weighted, with the smaller central area will not be trying to balance everything.
9. There is this old-timey thing called "Acceptable Sharpness", which simply means the subject may not be in exact focus, but it is close...sufficiently sharp to show reasonable detail.
So; Good luck in your endeavors...practice, evaluate, adjust as necessary, repeat, and soon you'll have it!