Shooter41 Loc: Wichita, KS

The only way I can think of to practice high-action outdoor soccer with my new 400mm prime lens in Wichita, Kansas, when there are no outdoor soccer games going on is to set up my Robus heavy duty tripod with my giant lens supported by a Manfrotto heavy duty gimble type camera mount supporting the lens with the camera on the back end about 150 feet away from a busy street and practice panning cars going buy both left and right. If I go home and download the images on my desktop computer, I should be able to determine if F2.8 aperature; shutter speed of 1/1250 second and ISO on "auto" is the right setup for my Sony A7RIV camera, or if I need to change some settings. I should be able to determine if I am getting the players in my viewfinder or on my digital screen or cutting them in half and when I need to grab my 70-200mm zoom telephoto lens camera, when the players get too close for the 400 mm lens. Then I plan to practice photographing cars at night to simulate what it will be light shooting outdoor soccer under lights. Any ideas anyone has that are better than mine will be appreciated appreciated.

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

Great action shot

Chicago312 Loc: Western suburb, Chicago

I saw your post under the Main Photography Discussion section. Happy 80th, congrats on getting a 400mm f2.8 and getting to shoot a professional soccer game!
Even though you will be shooting from one end of the pitch, you should be able to get plenty of good shots. The 400 will cover the north half of the pitch; the 70-200 will cover everything in the south half.

I would recommend checking to see if indeed you are allowed to bring a tripod/gimbal into the stadium. A monopod is what all sports pros use. A tripod/gimbal setup also leaves your expensive equipment exposed to damage by a flying soccer ball.

There really is no need to practice in advance other than to familiarize yourself with the lens. As Thomas902 mentioned, just focus on the ball. There is no need to practice panning as the ball and players do tend to move erratically.

Camera settings f2.8, 1/500 or faster. ISO can be fixed when shooting at night (or day). Take a few shots before the game. Set your shutter speed and adjust your ISO. Stadium lighting will not change once the sun has set.

Good luck and have fun!

Shooter41 Loc: Wichita, KS

Dear Chicago312...
Thank you so much for your excellent suggestions.

I checked and they will allow me to put my giant new lens on a tripod with a gimble and I have to due to a bad back and difficulty shooting that large of a lens off of a monopod. If a ball comes my way, I just have to pull the lens out of the way or end up with a broken nose and busted lens. (I do use a monopod on my 70-200mm zoom telephone when shooting indoor soccer.) This evening I watched Sporting KC play Minnesota and I practiced shooting the TV with my 400mm on a tripod. (That explains the cross hatching in the background.) Tonight's images look as though I might have to set my shutter speed as fast as 1/1600 second to stop action when shooting at the far end of the pitch. I had no idea when using a 400 mm lens and looking through the view finder reminds me of looking down the inside of a .22 caliber rifle when you are cleaning it. I agree that shooting the far half of the pitch with the 400mm and shooting the closest end of the pitch with my 70-200mm zoom telephoto seems reasonable. Right now it seems like shooting with the 400mm is going to be a lot more difficult than the 70-200mm, but that might be due to the fact I have never owned or shot with a 400mm before, so I'm a "newbie" all over again. Please keep your eyes peeled for images I post after 9-26-21, if they are not too far out of focus.

Jules Karney Loc: Las Vegas, Nevada

Perfect..

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

🆒🆒🆒🆒