SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA

I took the big plunge. I have a ZWO ASI 1600 MM-P (Pro) in the mail. OK, UPS...

I've wanted to do this for years now, so this morning I clicked the cart and have the package on the way from Agena Astro.
This is with an 8 filter EFW, and a bunch of filters as well.

So what I need help with is everybody donating a hundred bucks to help pay for it ... Just Kidding!

No, I'm going to be begging for help gathering, stacking, and processing a pile of Monochrome images, filtered through RGB and L, and some other filters I have just to see what happens.
But I'm making my next big move.

Deeper into the Black Hole of Astrophotography...

alberio Loc: Casa Grande AZ

Don't look at me...I can't even set my scope up, yet. However there is someone who might be able to set you straight. I finally managed to start getting two days off in a row, so maybe I can start catching up to everybody else.

Marc G Loc: East Grinstead, West Sussex, England

Well Hello BIG spender :)

In regards to your processing of mono / RGB / luminance / flats / dark flats / darks, have a look at Youtube tutorials for Astro Pixel Processor (APP) software.
I solely use this software for all my stacking & initial processing nowadays.
I personally find this software better & more reliable than DSS.
a majority of the settings do not not require changing once set up but it does have an annoying habit of requesting that you assign a working folder everytime you open the programme.
Also be aware of the gong (turn speakers off whilst running files lol)

any help you need just shout me on FB mate

SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA

Well, start galloping when you can.

SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA

Well, Hello back, Mate.
Yeah, it's something I've batted back and forth for years now, and I finally have a reason. I think my Infinity is caving in. But I've decided to take the plunge into Mono.
So I may be posting B&W images for a while.
Anyhow, it's the package I wanted. EFW, 8 holes, bunch of filters picked for this camera, cooling (Might be necessary the way the summer is going. HOT!)

I actually saw first light with it last night. Which was dark, as in no workie. I presumed since my Infinity had worked fine through my Star Tech hub, the ASI1600 would, too. Nope.
My computer couldn't see the camera. I tried a sundry of things, and finally plugged my USB3 cable directly into the camera. Then it began to be recognised, but not in all modes.
So, I have some bugs to work out today and I'm going to be dialing up support. At least I know the camera works, although I didn't see any stars yet (Likely 40 miles out of focus).
A bit of a lumpy start...

SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA

Ah HA! So you need to install it in the Device Manager, too.
Ho, Ho, then it starts working.
Scott at Agena Astro helped me get things working. I discovered a lot of cool things in the ASI Studio that runs it.
Like I can set it to take a series in each filter, and it stores away a set of images in any/all the filter positions I set it for.
Now... if I can figure out how to take images that are long enough to actually Show something.
If I was a cartoon caricature, I think I'd be a Bumble. (From Winny the Poo)

Always more to learn....

SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA

OK, I can't get to processing yet, still taking Picturds of unknown areas. Having trouble seeing the nebulosity, or telling if I'm actually on target. I have to get my guide scope adjusted to center on the same point the telescope is aimed on. Sigh, new equipment changes.

But getting more familiar with the ASI Studio and discovered I can set up auto run to pull in a full series of filtered images, with darks at each change. I can't find any really currant reports, but several older ones that are not up to the currant version. ASI Studio_V1.4 )64 bit)
I had an unused Luminance filter I felt I could sacrifice, so I sprayed it with flat black paint to make a black filter for the EFW. It's in position 8. It came with 7 ZWO filters.
So in the Image, capture, Auto Run, there's a list of operations. I finally figured out I could customize the exposure length, and the filter used, and set it for a number of exposures in Luminance, followed by a number of darks following those files at a custom time and frame number. Then go-to the next filter (R) followed by Darks. And so on down the filters, L,R,G,B, HA7nm, SII, and OIII. And just in case, the last set is 10 DARKS.
The idea is to collect the darks after each run, then the next filter, so the files run at the same temperature as the Light frames.

Anyway, so goes the currant theory. Going to do some aiming adjustment tonight, then try the Lights, Darks, change, repeat.
The images are Auto Saved, so hopefully I can build some files to fiddle with. Now that I'm getting settled in.

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

Have you tried replacing the USB cable? I have run into the problem that the connections got bad and gave me all kinds of grief. And replacing the cable brought relief. These cables don't last forever.

Marc G Loc: East Grinstead, West Sussex, England

Hi Mate

I was going to send this via PM but thought others may benefit from the shared info :)

Firstly, if your pc/laptop recognises the usb hub you should be able plug all your bits into it but there are a few things to watch out for: usb 3 devices can cause problems with usb hubs & laptops, yes they are supposed to automatically switch to usb 2 but often dont, this can usually be over come within the devices software (sharpcap, Altair & APT all of a usb speed switch, check if the one you are using has)
Secondly, usb ports have a bad habit of hunting for drivers when you plug a new device into them. To overcome this I make sure all my devices go into the same port every time ( i use little coloured stickers on the port & lead).
Thirdly, to achieve focus & framing I do this with the highest possible gain the camera can achieve with a short looping exposure of 2-3s (without a filter inline), but remember to reset this before shooting images. APT & other sequence software have a histo pre stretch function of which assists with framing. Obviously you may have to tweek your focus when adding / changing filters.
For really good framing, target location I find APT goto++ flawless when used correctly. The whole procedure is painless & super accurate.
The cooling (tec cooling) is brilliant thus allowing you to build a temperature regulated dark library. This library can be built indoors without a scope connected. In summer i have a library set at -5c with exposures at 60s 90s 120s 240s & 300s. During the winter i use a library set to -10c.
Minus 10 seems a nominal gauge for most tec cooled cameras.
Its also worth mentioning that cooling down to -10 is best done in stages (over ten mins) thus avoiding frosting of the sensor window.
regards Marc

Ballard Loc: Grass Valley, California

Great news and welcome to the new fun you are about to have. I'm still new to using the monochrome stuff myself but have found that I treat each filter type Like a separate set of subs and process each set separately (including stacking, denoise, stretching and sharpening) before combining the image into a full color image and then tweaking it a bit. Note: I normally take one of the subs from the Luminance set (or Ha set for narrow band) and use it as the stacking reference for each filter. Learning new stuff is a great way to keep the mind active as we all get older. As you come up with questions, please ask as someone will probably know the answers and we all need to learn from each other.
I have also just started narrow band imaging and found that I only need the HA, O3 and S2 and no luminance, when I tried to add Luminance it seemed to mute the narrow band details. I have also found it very useful to add HA to the LRGB by adding the HA to the red channel, I still processed the HA and Red separately but didn't try stretching until after adding the HA and Red together. (Others might have better suggestions).
I look forward to seeing your shots with the new camera.

SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA

Thanks Marc.
Yeah, for years now I've used a Star Tech Powered USB3 hub mounted on my telescope and a single USB3 cable to my laptop. So I almost never unplug anything from the hub, but on occasion I unplug and reconnect to the same port to wipe the connections clean. (Focuser, Guide camera, and Main Camera. The EFW (filter wheel is plugged into the main camera, and works flawlessly.)

I got the new Camera sorted out with a tech from the place I bought it. Seems it wasn't in the device manager.
Once added, the various bits in the ASI Program recognized where the camera was running it on the bench.
Now it works as expected. Just that I can't find my specified targets in the FOV. Tens of thousands of stars, but can't seem to sort out the target (Nebula).

Last night I was tidying up a bit and got the guide scope and Main Telescope centered on their aim, in between pesky clouds. But had to give up when a huge Thunderstorm loomed up from the East.
I think the blighty has heard I have a new camera. I kept having to wait out one curious cloud after another.
Baby steps indeed.
The clouds were like flies on dog-doo. They just kept buzzing in and out. Unusual for me for the summertime. I was all set to accomplish something last night, but the weather worked hard to foul me up.
Rats! Seems this stuff is always a PITA.

SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA

Hi Ballard! Uh, yeah, I'm still trying to get the hardware right... LOL!
Yesterday I had a brain fart after my nap. The ASI Studio I'm learning with has this Auto Imaging feature that takes a series of images (you chose the settings) and saves them to a designated file folder (I use a 128 Gb SD card). So far it is working very cool, but I dump the files so far as they are nothing to retain and I have enough Picturds as it is.

But, the brain fart was to put a black filter in Position 8. Then when the EFW uses a filter, the next command is to shoot some darks and save them under the lights. Then move on to the next filter, and repeat.
The idea is that the darks following each light (L-Dark, R-Dark, G-Dark, B-dark, etc. are the same temperature as the Light file preceding it.
Anyway, that was the plan. And it bench tested great. Just to be sure, I set-up a final file of 10 darks at the end of the automatic run.
I couldn't test it in the dark yet because I'm still struggling with the camera and finding objects. Plus the clouds were just a booger last night! With a finally of a huge thunderstorm looming in from the East.
Since I can, I'm working the automation angle to my best advantage.

Today, I'm going to try and get the North-South, and East-West camera movements aligned. Drives me nuts when the guide scope works perfectly, but the Main has different directions. Got to get the main rotated to coincide with the Guide and Mount. Should be easy, but it sure is not.

There is stacking in the ASI Studio as well. I tried it with a short stack of test images. But they were just random sky, and no features.
My biggest problem is not being able to see any semblance of a nebula in my FOV. If I go after some random star, it lands centered. But any Nebula is invisible.
I'm getting places. I just don't know where they are yet.
Sorting out basics. And doing it between clouds. ARGH!

JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA

This is going to open up a whole new world for you. The 16M sensor is four thirds size and you are going to see a wider field of view than the Infinity with the diagonal dimension about twice the Infinity diagonal dimension. And the detail will be better.

Baby steps first. Get used to capturing and processing using just one filter first. And get some experience stacking those images. Your HA filter would be a good start and let it show you some spectacular nebula shots such as North American Nebula and the misnamed Pelican Nebula beside it which I think should be called the Teradactyl Nebula. But then again, when the nebula was first named, no one had yet seen Fred Flintstone and obviously did not know what a Teradactyl was.

Have fun! Shooting with a mono sensor is a brand new game.

Ballard Loc: Grass Valley, California

There is always something more to do. For the darks since you can set the camera temperature you can build of a library of darks at a given time and temperature anytime you want and don't need to waste night time taking darks. Currently I've created a master dark for each time and temperature. For Bias frames I set the temp (probably not necessary) and create a master bias and use it for all the shots. Similarly for flats I take a set of flats for each filter and then create a master flat for each filter type (if you change any of the optical elements (e.g. add a barlow) you of course would need new flats but the bias and darks would stay the same.
I recently have spent the money (~$150) on sequence generator pro. It has lots of knobs to learn and set up for all your components (mount, focuser, scope info, location, filter wheel camera, guiding software etc), but once set up I can tell it to take the photo's without me staying up all night. It can also solve your problem about making sure you are pointed at what you think you are pointed at using plate solving.
The sequence goes something like this. Tell it the year 2000 coordinates of the center of the location you want to image, set up the number and exposure length for each filter type, set the time you want it to start (or manually start it which is what I have done so far since I like to watch it take the first few shots and make sure they look good).
It will start out using the luminance filter to slew the scope to the location, (do an auto focus sequence described below) take a frame and plate solve and see if it matches exactly the coordinates you put in (I'm always off by a few hundred pixels on its first pass), if not it adjusts the scope accordingly to get with in a couple pixels of the location and check it again (usually it is bang on with the second iteration). It will then start up the guide program (PHD in my case) and start guiding. It then sets the filter wheel filter and then starts another autofocus sequence (assume you have setup a computer controllable focuser). This takes the current focuser location which should be fairly close and sends it out, then takes a shot, brings it in in several steps takes a shot and does this (in my case I've configured it to 6 times which brings it in beyond the initial start point), it draws a curve showing the focus and figures out the best point and sets the focuser there (it could take a couple of iterations if you are not real close to focus initially). Once focus is set, it waits for the the auto guider to settle and then starts taking shots and saving them to a location you specify (I also configured it to drizzle between shots). I currently also configured it to refocus between filters just to be sure the focus was on (you can also tell it to refocus based on temp change and or time). The plate solving makes it easy to shoot over several nights as it finds the exact location to start from again. It also flawlessly handles meridian flips and uses plate solving to get it image exactly centered on the flip side (of course the images are 180 degrees out but the stacking software handles that without issue).

SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA

It sure is Jim! It's like viewing from my back yard, compared to going to Joshua Tree National Forest. So many more stars!
I'm definitely taking "Baby Steps". I might have finally gotten the hardware figured out, but can't say until it gets dark (and cloudless) tonight. Looks like the Monsoonal flow is going East today. Last night was a royal PITA.
But I always learn something, even on crummy nights.
This is the first Astro Camera I ever saw that can show a picture of a daytime view of a ridge 2 miles away. Auto gain and Auto exposure.
So I did my best to align it to move the same as my guide scope camera does. If they both move the same direction, I can course aim with my guide scope, then fine tune in the main camera and start guiding.

But the Infinity always gave me a view showing the Nebula even in short exposure so I could fine tune my aim centering up. None found yet with this camera. But I think it maybe because the two were cockeyed.
Always more to learn... But this is a quantum leap.