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New Camera + Old Lights = No Flash
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Jun 28, 2021 21:38:27   #
GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI
 
I tried taking portraits with my trusty Paul C Buff lights (Einstein and Alien Bee) that worked great with my Sony a7iii. However, no such luck using the Sony a7Riv. I've watched and re-watched all the PCB videos and I spent an hour on a chat with Sony to no avail. The Sony rep just wanted tp sell me a Sony flash even though that wouldn't have solved the problem. I have a Nissin flash that works just fine on the camera; but it won't trigger the strobes. I'm just glad that I didn't sell the Sony a7iii (I planned to keep it as a backup). I bought the Einstein brand new in November, 2018, so it is fairly new and the Sony a7R4 has been out for a while, so I'm at a loss as to why they don't play nice.

Does anyone have an idea about what I could be doing wrong? The flashes work on their own and from both the small transmitter and the Cyber Commander; but neither trigger the flash units when placed in the cameras hot shoe. I did call PCBuff and they thought that the connection on the foot of the Commander may not connect right and that I should send it in to be repaired.

I compared the settings on both cameras and they are the same, although the iv does have additional menu options not available on the iii. It sure seems like I am missing something simple to make the two communicate.. or is the camera too new and the lights too old to communicate? All items have fully charged or new batteries and the firmware on the camera has been updated. All ideas and suggestions are welcome.

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Jun 29, 2021 05:56:05   #
Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis
 
GrandmaG wrote:
I tried taking portraits with my trusty Paul C Buff lights (Einstein and Alien Bee) that worked great with my Sony a7iii. However, no such luck using the Sony a7Riv. I've watched and re-watched all the PCB videos and I spent an hour on a chat with Sony to no avail. The Sony rep just wanted tp sell me a Sony flash even though that wouldn't have solved the problem. I have a Nissin flash that works just fine on the camera; but it won't trigger the strobes. I'm just glad that I didn't sell the Sony a7iii (I planned to keep it as a backup). I bought the Einstein brand new in November, 2018, so it is fairly new and the Sony a7R4 has been out for a while, so I'm at a loss as to why they don't play nice.

Does anyone have an idea about what I could be doing wrong? The flashes work on their own and from both the small transmitter and the Cyber Commander; but neither trigger the flash units when placed in the cameras hot shoe. I did call PCBuff and they thought that the connection on the foot of the Commander may not connect right and that I should send it in to be repaired.

I compared the settings on both cameras and they are the same, although the iv does have additional menu options not available on the iii. It sure seems like I am missing something simple to make the two communicate.. or is the camera too new and the lights too old to communicate? All items have fully charged or new batteries and the firmware on the camera has been updated. All ideas and suggestions are welcome.
I tried taking portraits with my trusty Paul C Buf... (show quote)


Are you trying to use the popup on your camera to fire the einstiens?
if so you you have the flash sensor facing or almost facing the camera.

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Jun 29, 2021 11:57:38   #
GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI
 
Manglesphoto wrote:
Are you trying to use the popup on your camera to fire the einstiens?
if so you you have the flash sensor facing or almost facing the camera.


There’s no popup on my camera. I’m using the PCB small transmitter. I tried a flash to see if it would trigger the Einstein but that was a no go. I also have a PCBuff Cyber Commander which also won’t trigger the light.

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Jun 30, 2021 11:15:52   #
Old Edmundo
 
I use a lot of Paul C Buff equipment ,and Godox last week I was helping A new Lieca SL2 owner use my equipment . Using several types of triggers pocket Wizzard, Godox 2.4, snd Paul C Buff , nothing worked . It turned out it was the camera settings
1)he was in a shutter speed Beyound his camera sync speed
2) he was in a programmed mode
Now all working fine.
If all else fails use your lights as optical slaves with a Sony flash on you camera
Or
Place a receiver on you camera to shoot remotely and receivers on you lights,
Use one channel to trigger the camera and a second Chanel to trigger the lights

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Jul 1, 2021 00:26:43   #
GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI
 
Old Edmundo wrote:
I use a lot of Paul C Buff equipment ,and Godox last week I was helping A new Lieca SL2 owner use my equipment . Using several types of triggers pocket Wizzard, Godox 2.4, snd Paul C Buff , nothing worked . It turned out it was the camera settings
1)he was in a shutter speed Beyound his camera sync speed
2) he was in a programmed mode
Now all working fine.
If all else fails use your lights as optical slaves with a Sony flash on you camera
Or
Place a receiver on you camera to shoot remotely and receivers on you lights,
Use one channel to trigger the camera and a second Chanel to trigger the lights
I use a lot of Paul C Buff equipment ,and Godox l... (show quote)


Thank you for this. I am in Manual mode, ISO 100, 1/125 shutter speed, 5.6 aperture. The small transmitter just needed a new battery to work on the a7iii BUT IT WONT TRIGGER THE LIGHTS on the a7Riv. Using the sync cord, I can trigger the lights. What setting am I missing on the newer camera? How do I set a different channel to trigger the camera?

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Jul 1, 2021 14:47:48   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
This can be a case of too much technology and/or incompatibility or defect in that trigger unit. You can spend days trying to figure it out to no conclusion, so here is a simple workaround.

Your camera has a stand PC (Prontor-Compur) flash sync terminal. Simply obtain a long enough synch cord and wire it directly to one of your Buff lights. The built in photoelectric cells in the other light will trigger them. You might even have such a cord that was packed with your Buff lights. Your lights have a trigger voltage of 5 Volts which is perfectly safe for your camera.

The Buff lights have a standard 1/4" socket. I assume the white dome atop the unit is the photoelectric cell.

Another quick trick- If you have a Speedlight for your camera you can simply bounce it off the ceiling at low power. If it is several stops below your studio lights- it won't affect exposure but it should trigger the photoelectric cells.

I take it you are manually setting yo exposure and ratios so you don't need TTL or command modes.

I hope this helps.

Attached file:
(Download)



Attached file:
(Download)





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Jul 1, 2021 16:30:17   #
GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
This can be a case of too much technology and/or incompatibility or defect in that trigger unit. You can spend days trying to figure it out to no conclusion, so here is a simple workaround.

Your camera has a stand PC (Prontor-Compur) flash sync terminal. Simply obtain a long enough synch cord and wire it directly to one of your Buff lights. The built in photoelectric cells in the other light will trigger them. You might even have such a cord that was packed with your Buff lights. Your lights have a trigger voltage of 5 Volts which is perfectly safe for your camera.

The Buff lights have a standard 1/4" socket. I assume the white dome atop the unit is the photoelectric cell.

Another quick trick- If you have a Speedlight for your camera you can simply bounce it off the ceiling at low power. If it is several stops below your studio lights- it won't affect exposure but it should trigger the photoelectric cells.

I take it you are manually setting yo exposure and ratios so you don't need TTL or command modes.

I hope this helps.
This can be a case of too much technology and/or i... (show quote)


Thank you for this reply. YES, I can trigger ONE light with the sync cord. I will set up my lights again and see if the first light will trigger the second light. I didn’t have any luck triggering the units with an onboard flash. My flash unit is a Nissin, not Sony, if that makes a difference. I thought about buying a Sony flash. I’m really bummed that the PCBuff Cyber Commander doesn’t seem to work. I WILL be sending that in for possible repair.

Yes, my camera is on Manual mode.

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Jul 1, 2021 18:32:03   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
GrandmaG wrote:
Thank you for this reply. YES, I can trigger ONE light with the sync cord. I will set up my lights again and see if the first light will trigger the second light. I didn’t have any luck triggering the units with an onboard flash. My flash unit is a Nissin, not Sony if that makes a difference. I thought about buying a Sony flash. I’m really bummed that the PCBuff Cyber Commander doesn’t seem to work. I WILL be sending that in for possible repair.

Yes, my camera is on Manual mode.


Let us know how you make out.

A Sony on-camera Speedlight would make no difference as far as photoelectric cells are concerned- they should respond to any flash if they are working. Check to see if your Buff lights have a switch to turn the photocells on and off.

By the way, Buff has excellent customer service. If there is an issue with that trigger you should contact them. Here's the link:

https://www.paulcbuff.com/Service-and-Repairs.html

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Jul 1, 2021 19:30:15   #
GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Let us know how you make out.

A Sony on-camera Speedlight would make no difference as far as photoelectric cells are concerned- they should respond to any flash if they are working. Check to see if your Buff lights have a switch to turn the photocells on and off.

By the way, Buff has excellent customer service. If there is an issue with that trigger you should contact them. Here's the link:

https://www.paulcbuff.com/Service-and-Repairs.html


You are right and very helpful. I had a long conversation with someone at Paul C Buff and they advised me to send the commander in, which is what I plan to do.

I will use your advice and run some tests tomorrow and follow up after that. Thanks!

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Jul 3, 2021 13:08:40   #
GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
Let us know how you make out.

A Sony on-camera Speedlight would make no difference as far as photoelectric cells are concerned- they should respond to any flash if they are working. Check to see if your Buff lights have a switch to turn the photocells on and off.

So, I ran another test with the same results. A flash on the a7RM4 does not trigger the Buff lights. I CAN trigger ONE light with a sync cord; but not both. I didn’t see a switch to turn the photocell on or off. I have sent the Cyber Commander in for repair. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks.
By the way, Buff has excellent customer service. If there is an issue with that trigger you should contact them. Here's the link:

https://www.paulcbuff.com/Service-and-Repairs.html
Let us know how you make out. br br A Sony on-c... (show quote)

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Jul 3, 2021 14:38:41   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
I got the quote but no furter message- Did it work?

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Jul 3, 2021 15:27:23   #
GrandmaG Loc: Flat Rock, MI
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
I got the quote but no furter message- Did it work?


No. I ran the tests with the same results. The flash on the a7Rm4 did not trigger the lights. ONE light could be triggered with a sync cord but not both. I couldn’t see a switch to turn on a photocell and I sent the Cyber Commander in for repair

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Jul 3, 2021 16:48:33   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
GrandmaG wrote:
No. I ran the tests with the same results. The flash on the a7Rm4 did not trigger the lights. ONE light could be triggered with a sync cord but not both. I couldn’t see a switch to turn on a photocell and I sent the Cyber Commander in for repair

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Jul 3, 2021 17:04:48   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
quote=GrandmaG]No. I ran the tests with the same results. The flash on the a7Rm4 did not trigger the lights. ONE light could be triggered with a sync cord but not both. I couldn’t see a switch to turn on a photocell and I sent the Cyber Commander in for repair[/quote]

I see, sorry I could not help you better. I do no have Buff lights, but I do know they are well made and their service is excellent.

Tell me exactly which models of Buff units o have and I check my service manuals. Up until a few years ago, besides my commercial photography business, I partnered with a company that serviced, built and modified flash gear. Someof the info is on an old computer that still operates and some are hardcopies. I can tell you if your various units actually have built-in photocells and if they can be activated or turned off.

My index shows White Lightning, Einstein, and the basic older units with the colourful paint jobs on the outer casings. So... maybe I can get you going before the trigger units are repaired.

The good thing is, the issue is not in the camera's synchronization system in that it works with the synch cord. If for some unknown reason the trigger system still won't work, you can fit the other flash units will inexpensive plugin photocells- if they do not have functional built-in ones.

Let me know!

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Jul 3, 2021 17:13:59   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
HSYNCHRONIZED FIRING: the SYNC CORD and BUILT-IN SLAVE EYE
Hardwired Sync: Each unit arrives with a 15-foot sync cord for hardwired, synchronized
firing. The cord’s 1/8-inch miniplug connects to the flash unit on the back control
panel, then connects to your camera via PC-sync connection. With the sync cord
connected and the flash unit powered on, pressing your camera’s shutter will simultaneously fire the flash unit.
NOTE: If your camera does not have an input for this PC-connection, we offer a hot
shoe adapter (sold separately; please see our website at www.paulcbuff.com/hotshoeadapters.php to learn more).
Built-In Slave Cell: Each unit has a built-in slave tripper for wireless firing when used as
part of a multi-light setup. With a multi-light setup, you will only need to connect one
flash unit in the setup to your camera using the sync cord. With one unit connected,
the other units will fire at the same time via their slave trippers. The tripper on each
unit is activated by the slave cell, located on the back control panel, firing the unit
whenever it “sees” the light from another flash as far as 50+ feet away. This slave
cell is disengaged whenever a sync cord or “dummy plug” (used with some remote
controls) is inserted in the sync jack.
NOTE: The slave cell is designed to sense flashes of light (both visible and infrared);
any flash that it “sees” can trigger it, including the flash from another unit in your
setup, a conventional on-camera, built-in, or pop-up flash (and its pre-flash), and/or
an infrared remote transmitter. Although this gives you more options for triggering,
the presence of extraneous triggers must be considered when you are not the only
photographer in the area. Other flashes (whether on professional or even disposable
cameras), and infrared remotes can inadvertently trigger your flash unit(s).
We additionally offer various remote control options that provide synchronization
between your camera and your flash unit(s), allowing your flash unit(s) to be remotely
triggered. We additionally offer remote control options that provide complete control
over all parameters of the light. To learn more about the remote control options that
we offer for use with the AlienBees units (systems and components sold separately
from flash units), please visit our website.
• to learn about our CyberSync system, visit: www.paulcbuff.com/cybersync.php
• to learn about our LG4X system, visit: www.paulcbuff.com/lg4x.phpere's the SYNCH info for the Alien Bee units:

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