Why Does the Bird Seed Appear More Clearly Than the Male House Finch in the Attached Image?
May 17, 2021 16:55:55 #
runakid
Loc: Shelbyville, TN
ejones0310 wrote:
In my opinion, it’s because the feathers that make up most of the bird are softening the edges of the bird and the different color areas in the bird. If you look at just his feet, they seem just as sharp as the seed.
I agree
May 17, 2021 22:57:27 #
rmcgarry331 wrote:
Don,
It is hard to tell anything about the sharpness in your posted photo, due to the noise in the image. It looks like both the bird and the feeder were acceptably sharp when you shot the photo. However, your post processing added a bunch of noise that is killing the sharpness on the feather detail on the bird. For whatever reason, the most important element, the eye remains acceptably sharp.
It is hard to tell anything about the sharpness in your posted photo, due to the noise in the image. It looks like both the bird and the feeder were acceptably sharp when you shot the photo. However, your post processing added a bunch of noise that is killing the sharpness on the feather detail on the bird. For whatever reason, the most important element, the eye remains acceptably sharp.
Maybe the fact that the eye is a black circle with a bold divide with the surrounding face makes it resolve better. I agree that when I enlarge any area, I get noise (tail feathers but even the seeds). Enemies of sharp lines are focus (F8 would be better, and certainly not a diffraction problem with a long lens like this; motion (of camera or subject); magnification (when I blow it up it gets fuzzy, but magnification is in both lens and cropping, and is relative to sensor size--and size of image enlargement on the viewer or paper); and ISO (which can reverse the improvements of fast shutter and smaller aperture--high ISO can still be sharp, but won't look as sharp).
The picture is excellent, but by the time you consider each of these conflicting obstacles, you must compromise. If you cannot get close, then magnification is a controlling limit: a longer lens needs faster shutter and smaller aperture for DOF, while cropping later kills the resolution. On top of all this, post-processing introduces noise if you try to squeeze too much sharpness out of it.
The choice you make for compromises will be revealed in the picture; it may be great at modest size, but when enlarged looks better if you back up. Of course we are not even considering smudges on the glass, filter, or sensor...
May 18, 2021 01:09:00 #
May 24, 2021 11:56:55 #
I looked at your meta data of the image. You used: 1/640 sec. f/5.6 220mm, ISO 640.
May I suggest you place the focal point on the birds "eye" using: f8, 1/1200 sec and "Auto ISO".
If the subject is still blurred raise the shutter speed.
May I suggest you place the focal point on the birds "eye" using: f8, 1/1200 sec and "Auto ISO".
If the subject is still blurred raise the shutter speed.
May 25, 2021 13:38:43 #
flyboy61
Loc: The Great American Desert
bobmcculloch wrote:
First off, nice image, to me the feet look sharp, the seed at the top looks sharper than the seed at the bottom, if you hadn't asked I never would have noticed but the birds eye and bill seem softer than the feet. Could you check the original image before cropping? where was the focal point? might give you a clue.
Good observation!
To me, the eye could be more sharply focused, but not bad as is. Technique is the cause of most unsharp pixes. pressing the shutter release like you were killing a really ugly bug will cause camera/lens shake!
Jul 26, 2021 14:19:25 #
If your camera has a live view/touch screen it's best to select or force focus on the subject you want the camera to focus on. You can touch the screen and either a blue or green block will appear. you can drag the block to a location and even resize it. Doing this will force the camera to focus within that block thus keep anything and everything within that block to be in clear focus.
Jul 28, 2021 15:36:05 #
I suspect your guess is probably right. It's something about those sharp edges in the seed. Also there's a lot of contrast between the edges and the body of the seeds.
Jul 30, 2021 16:34:48 #
Was this image tightly cropped? If so , that might explain the apparent lack of sharpness and noise. But if all my shots were this sharp I would be very happy.
Aug 6, 2021 19:51:00 #
cactuspic
Loc: Dallas, TX
Although several people have said the bird's eye is on the same plane as the seeds, it seems to me that the sharpest seed, on the right side of the feeder. It also seems to me that the right side of the feeder, is slightly closer to the camera than the bird. Did you by any chance focus and then recompose? Objects with high contrast edges (light/dark contrast and color contrast) will look sharper than objects with last contrast.
When shooting through glass, you lose sharpness for two reasons: the poor optical quality of window glass and the reflections off the surface of the glass. To cut the reflections, you can use a rubber lens hood and hold it flush to the glass, if you can't avoid the glass.
When shooting through glass, you lose sharpness for two reasons: the poor optical quality of window glass and the reflections off the surface of the glass. To cut the reflections, you can use a rubber lens hood and hold it flush to the glass, if you can't avoid the glass.
Sep 9, 2021 09:54:49 #
Sep 26, 2021 10:35:09 #
Kaib795
Loc: Maryland, USA
Maybe a different approach is needed here. Mainly to see exactly how good your gear can shoot so test it. Use a tripod, get a similar area you want to capture and test shoot. Try different f stops as often the middle f stop performs best with any lens. For me it's F-4 and it's very sharp. I like say the tail of the bird going out of focus slightly so that the shot makes you look where I'm looking. Maybe that's what the bird is eating (in it's beak) so I would focus there but if you use a high enough f stop it will capture a range in focus and you should be fine (it will have the head and body in focus but the tail dropping off). Because the bird is perched, you don't need a very fast shutter speed, just 1/125 or faster. Experiment with your gear. Shoot in raw if you can as its far more forgiving than jpegs. With a tripod and finding out what f stop works best, I'm sure your captures will improve. Those with photo editing skills will naturally gravitate to shooting raw. If you don't want to edit your shots than go with jpegs. I work in the commercial printing field so we have to know all this post editing stuff. Enjoy!
Sep 26, 2021 10:49:56 #
Kaib795
Loc: Maryland, USA
Looking at the meta data others have posted, your shutter is fast enough and the f stop was 5.6 which is fine. The issue can be gear and that's the best it can do. This is a hanging feeder so it swings back and forth as soon as the bird lands on it. You'll have to have a fast shutter, maybe faster. If the feeder was stationary that would help. Another thought is that your focus should be on continuous and try shooting in bursts. Then maybe some shots will be in focus. Birds do move fast. Your camera has to be able to focus fast as well.
Try shooting a static object to see just how sharp your gear can work. If the shots are sharp then you know it's about the camera's focus ability which can be overcome by simply manually focusing on the feeder (turn off auto focus) and then shoot at F8 but you have to use a tripod and release cable. Now you just wait for the bird and press the release (not ever looking through the camera as you have it set up!). Enjoy
Try shooting a static object to see just how sharp your gear can work. If the shots are sharp then you know it's about the camera's focus ability which can be overcome by simply manually focusing on the feeder (turn off auto focus) and then shoot at F8 but you have to use a tripod and release cable. Now you just wait for the bird and press the release (not ever looking through the camera as you have it set up!). Enjoy
Nov 3, 2021 13:36:22 #
Hello
I like the photo and think it is pretty good.
When I looked at it in photoshop, you used F 5.6. I think I would have used F8.
You have to take into account that the feeder tube is round and may be mm closer to you than the bird.
Also not sure what type focus you used also. Most people used center, small or wide maybe ?
I would have used spot focus and put it on the bird .
I did put the photo into a program called Topaz DeNoise AI and was able to pull some more clarity out of the photo. Just for your FYI .
happy shooting .
I like the photo and think it is pretty good.
When I looked at it in photoshop, you used F 5.6. I think I would have used F8.
You have to take into account that the feeder tube is round and may be mm closer to you than the bird.
Also not sure what type focus you used also. Most people used center, small or wide maybe ?
I would have used spot focus and put it on the bird .
I did put the photo into a program called Topaz DeNoise AI and was able to pull some more clarity out of the photo. Just for your FYI .
happy shooting .
Nov 21, 2021 15:50:24 #
I've several thoughts regarding your variable sharpness question. They may or may not overlap
1. At the size presented (3917 x3713=1.5 megapixels) it appears that the photo has been cropped quite a bit . It occurs to me that the pre cropping the bird may have been at the edge of the photo in the perimeter softness zone of the lens while the birdseed was perhaps more centered in the sharper zone of the lens.
2. Also I see that the photo was taken at a 35 mm equivalent" 600mm @ 1/640 second. While you may be capable of handholding at that speed. the birds movements may just have been twitchy enough to soften it's image a bit.
3. Upon careful inspection,I can see a slight difference in sharpness between the bird's left and right feet. The depth of field at 600 mm and f/5.6 would be razor thin. This would explain a lot of the difference in apparent sharpness.
4 The bird doesn't have the same brightness and color contrast as does the seed. The human eye seeks contrast and our brain interprets the contrast as sharpness.
I cannot tell from the photo which or any of my thoughts are valid and since the photo was taken in April, you have likely forgotten the details of your photographing procedure. At this point it seems like the case has several prime suspects and may never be solved with absolute certainty.
1. At the size presented (3917 x3713=1.5 megapixels) it appears that the photo has been cropped quite a bit . It occurs to me that the pre cropping the bird may have been at the edge of the photo in the perimeter softness zone of the lens while the birdseed was perhaps more centered in the sharper zone of the lens.
2. Also I see that the photo was taken at a 35 mm equivalent" 600mm @ 1/640 second. While you may be capable of handholding at that speed. the birds movements may just have been twitchy enough to soften it's image a bit.
3. Upon careful inspection,I can see a slight difference in sharpness between the bird's left and right feet. The depth of field at 600 mm and f/5.6 would be razor thin. This would explain a lot of the difference in apparent sharpness.
4 The bird doesn't have the same brightness and color contrast as does the seed. The human eye seeks contrast and our brain interprets the contrast as sharpness.
I cannot tell from the photo which or any of my thoughts are valid and since the photo was taken in April, you have likely forgotten the details of your photographing procedure. At this point it seems like the case has several prime suspects and may never be solved with absolute certainty.
Nov 21, 2021 15:51:48 #
I've several thoughts regarding your variable sharpness question. They may or may not overlap
1. At the size presented (3917 x3713=1.5 megapixels) it appears that the photo has been cropped quite a bit . It occurs to me that the pre cropping the bird may have been at the edge of the photo in the perimeter softness zone of the lens while the birdseed was perhaps more centered in the sharper zone of the lens.
2. Also I see that the photo was taken at a 35 mm equivalent" 600mm @ 1/640 second. While you may be capable of handholding at that speed. the birds movements may just have been twitchy enough to soften it's image a bit.
3. Upon careful inspection,I can see a slight difference in sharpness between the bird's left and right feet. The depth of field at 600 mm and f/5.6 would be razor thin. This would explain a lot of the difference in apparent sharpness.
4 The bird doesn't have the same brightness and color contrast as does the seed. The human eye seeks contrast and our brain interprets the contrast as sharpness.
I cannot tell from the photo which or any of my thoughts are valid and since the photo was taken in April, you have likely forgotten the details of your photographing procedure. At this point it seems like the case has several prime suspects and may never be solved with absolute certainty.
1. At the size presented (3917 x3713=1.5 megapixels) it appears that the photo has been cropped quite a bit . It occurs to me that the pre cropping the bird may have been at the edge of the photo in the perimeter softness zone of the lens while the birdseed was perhaps more centered in the sharper zone of the lens.
2. Also I see that the photo was taken at a 35 mm equivalent" 600mm @ 1/640 second. While you may be capable of handholding at that speed. the birds movements may just have been twitchy enough to soften it's image a bit.
3. Upon careful inspection,I can see a slight difference in sharpness between the bird's left and right feet. The depth of field at 600 mm and f/5.6 would be razor thin. This would explain a lot of the difference in apparent sharpness.
4 The bird doesn't have the same brightness and color contrast as does the seed. The human eye seeks contrast and our brain interprets the contrast as sharpness.
I cannot tell from the photo which or any of my thoughts are valid and since the photo was taken in April, you have likely forgotten the details of your photographing procedure. At this point it seems like the case has several prime suspects and may never be solved with absolute certainty.
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