JBRIII

Agree 1000%. SX cameras just not made for this type of photography.
60D will work fine, I bought one on Ebay for around $200 maybe 2 yrs ago. Canon R is fantastic for Aurora, but a bit pricer. Gopro (10 yrs ago) actually worked well also if traveler has one.

SilverthorneRuth Loc: Silverthorne, Colorado

I've had the SX40 and now have the SX60. Just put it on Shutter Priority (TV) and choose your timing. I've shot photos of the Gore Range in the full moon at night with about a 15 second exposure (on a tripod and with a 2-second shutter release) and they turned out great!

DougS Loc: Central Arkansas

I have seen a VIDEO shot on an I-Phone, of an aurora that I saw personally, while in Coldfoot! It started out slow, 30 second shots on my camera, it sped up and it was moving way too fast for still shots (1/30 sec)! Wish I had shot it in video mode! I was using an intervalometer timer on my camera for most of my shots. This was in February, 2017. The aurora intensity was forecast a 2. We saw the aurora for 5 nights straight! There is a wide open area (flood control area) northeast of North Pole, AK, with a wide open space, but you probably want some foreground in the photos, to keep them interesting.
On the way back to Fairbanks, we saw another like that, inside the northeast city limits of Fairbanks!
The big thing to consider, is the forcast... clouds! Hopefully the skies cooperate for you. You may want to download 'GI Aurora Forecast', 'Northern Eye Aurora Forecast', and 'Aurora Forecast', or similar, for I-Phones. Remember 'Hot Hands' in your shoes, and possibly on your camera! Enjoy the shows!

JBRIII

I have tried to find the relative brightness of a ful moon vs Aurora, but have had no success. That said the moon is very bright, I have shot it during full daylight with an SX60 with no problems. But trying to get even a few stars at night with the camera is troublesome. If its the only camera you have and this isn't something that if it fails then OK, but otherwise get something better.

A camera with a remote shutter control is great for trying different exposures for example.
Also, a camera adapted for astro like the 60Da shows red which is of the limit human visions 630nm, and hot filters cut out. I got nice red using a Da because it was what I had!

I admit my info is seat of the pants, but I just don't think an SX is the way to go.

Best way to get an answer would be to email some guiding services and ask specifically about the camera one plans to use. Maybe myself and others who responded similarly are totally wrong, but if not, then someone may be very disappointed.

DrPhrogg Loc: NJ

The SX50 on manual will extend time to 15 seconds and iso up to 6400. I would suggest you use between 4-6 seconds at iso highest. I think it is automatically maxed at 80 over 1 second. You will have to experiment. Tripod is a must. Turn off AWB and stabilization. Zoom the lens into wide angle. And, yes, shoot in RAW. Take pictures even if the image you see is not spectacular. I learned from a commercial photographer in Talkeetna, that the camera will see more than your eye. I saw a few greens and one streak of yellow. The camera saw this. (5 sec, f/5.6 iso 3200, Canon T3i, 28mm)

DrPhrogg Loc: NJ

The SX50 is a Canon Bridge Camera. It is digital, ttl, but it has a zoom lens like a pocket camera. However, it will zoom from 24mm to 1200mm. It can shoot in full auto or manual, Aperture or speed. It also has auto settings for portrait, night, sports, etc.

DrPhrogg Loc: NJ

In 1950, I saw the Northern Lights from Seaside, NJ

DrPhrogg Loc: NJ

Usually not IN Phila. Too much light pollution. You can get nearly dark skies in nearby S. Jersey

DrPhrogg Loc: NJ

There is a manual setting that allows control of shutter speed and f/stop, as well as iso

DrPhrogg Loc: NJ

Rotate knob to M(anual) and rotate control wheel to change speed