I am currently using an HP 27" monitor 1920x1... (
More important than refresh rate or resolution is COLOR ACCURACY. You want a monitor that can display 100% of the sRGB ICC color gamut, or better, 100% of the P3 color gamut, or best, 99% of Adobe RGB.
The bit depth of output is important, too. Most cheap monitors use 8 bits per color channel. 10 bits per channel is better. 14 bits per channel is phenomenal. Office monitors are calibrated for budgets. Gaming monitors are made for speed. Monitors made for graphic arts and photography are engineered for color accuracy.
For best use in photography, your monitor should be calibrated at least monthly with a hardware device (colorimeter or spectrophotometer), using the software that comes with the calibration device. That takes about ten minutes or so.
To get "What You See Is What You Get" color (your prints look very much like the image on your monitor), you need to calibrate to these aims, or close to them:
Color Temperature 5800K to 6500K
White Point 80 to 120 candelas per square meter (cd/m^2) (I like 105-120)
Black Point 0.5 cd/m^2
If your prints are too dark, the monitor is too bright. Increase the white point.
If your prints are too light, the monitor is too dark. Lower the white point.
If your prints are off-color, too contrasty, or too flat, your calibration and/or monitor profile are wrong. Use a calibration kit with the aims above, and try again.
Keep your "color evaluation area" very dimly lit with a 5000K CFL lamp, and as close to neutral gray in color as you can. My computer desktop is medium dark gray (no desktop picture).
I calibrate my old iMac with a DataColor SpyderProX kit. It is a very close match to my prints. The same kit calibrates TVs and projectors.
I'd be wary of advice you get from camera club members unless they have had professional training in color management systems and procedures. There is plenty of BS flying around out there. Both DataColor and X-Rite have plenty of educational materials on their websites.