When you go out to shoot in available dark, what subjects are you looking for that benefit from low light? Or is it just a matter of taking an unplanned shot in low light or shooting where flash isn’t allowed? Your thoughts on this would be helpful.
To me, it is all about what light there is and how it combines and balances with dark areas. Normally, in cities and towns when traveling.
gvarner wrote:
When you go out to shoot in available dark, what subjects are you looking for that benefit from low light? Or is it just a matter of taking an unplanned shot in low light or shooting where flash isn’t allowed? Your thoughts on this would be helpful.
I specifically seek the artificially lit mixed lighting after darkfall situations. Results show a view that we cannot see by our own eyes cuz our human vision is always accommodating and dealing with only fragments of the scene in every glance.
In a way, it’s similar to IR photography in that it shows a real world that is actually there, that we ourselves occupy, but that we can’t see without using certain tools.
Show your audience their familiar world in a way that they have never seen it before. Do that and they never complain about noise, short DoF, blown highlights, motion blur, hdr ghosts, wacko WB, etc.
User ID wrote:
I specifically seek the artificially lit mixed lighting after sunset scenes. The results show a view that we don’t see by our own eyes cuz our human vision is always accommodating and dealing with only fragments of the scene in every glance. In a way, it’s similar to IR photography in that it shows a world that is actually there, that we ourselves occupy, but that we can’t see without using certain tools.
That’s a great observation. Thanks.
Pretty much anything involving the night sky. But a particularly good example would be northern lights on the horizon from here in Oregon. I rely on satellite data for likely times to try but only know for sure when captured by the camera. Even when they are strong enough to see visually it is only black and white luminence. Sensor gets it in color.
I do not seek low light images but I found so many scenes that are very beautiful but the light is low. Mood lighting in a restaurant, candlelight dinner, interior of a church etc.. where the light is low but it's the light that is beautiful and using flashes or additional lighting to create the same would be beyond my ability.
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
Gene51 wrote:
Deliberate shooting in "available dark" ... (
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Nice set Gene. Shows your skill set.
gvarner wrote:
When you go out to shoot in available dark, what subjects are you looking for that benefit from low light? Or is it just a matter of taking an unplanned shot in low light or shooting where flash isn’t allowed? Your thoughts on this would be helpful.
Sixty years ago, I did the routine stuff, passing cats, star trails, and the like. Then I discovered the ASA 3200 peel-apart black and white Polaroid film and it became possible to clearly reveal what could not readily be seen in the dark. I still like doing that...just digitally now. Otherwise it's night sky imaging mostly, although it's on my list to learn to do low-key images like those that Gene posted.
I used to enjoy taking Church/ Cathedral interiors on a 5x4 camera. 15/25min exposures, (to lose people walking about in my shots) Not the same with digital, there is no Reciprocity Failure with digital, just with film. Covid -19 'Lock-down' will prevent me from this enjoyment today. (And tomorrow).
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
larryepage wrote:
Sixty years ago, I did the routine stuff, passing cats, star trails, and the like. Then I discovered the ASA 3200 peel-apart black and white Polaroid film and it became possible to clearly reveal what could not readily be seen in the dark. I still like doing that...just digitally now. Otherwise it's night sky imaging mostly, although it's on my list to learn to do low-key images like those that Gene posted.
I used to use Tri-X Pro and Acu-1 developer for ISO 6500, or, in my more adventurous days the following recipe from the Zone VI manual.
Water at 125F 2-1/2 cups 500 ml
Sodium sulphite 2 TBSP + 1 tsp 53 g
Hydroquinone 1-1/2 tsp 4.5 g
Sodium carbonate 1/4 tsp + 1/8 tsp 2.3 g
Borax 1/2 tsp 2.5 g
Potassium bromide 1/8 tsp 10 ml of a 10 wt% solution
Phenidone 1/8 tsp 0.25 g or 125 ml concentrate
Water to make 1 liter
The phenidone concentrate:
Water at 125F 3 cups
Sodium bisulphite 1 tsp
Phenidone 1 tsp
Water to make 1 liter
Develop at 68° for 2.25 to 5.25 minutes - or starters. As was usually the case, temps and times were highly variable - but outside the typical increase in base density + fog, either developer was pretty decent, and you could take pics of herds of black cats on a moonless night during a black out with no problems.
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
gvarner wrote:
Nice set Gene. Shows your skill set.
Thanks! Being in the right place at the right time with a decent camera had a lot to do with it.
Gene51 wrote:
I used to use Tri-X Pro and Acu-1 developer for ISO 6500, or, in my more adventurous days the following recipe from the Zone VI manual.
Water at 125F 2-1/2 cups 500 ml
Sodium sulphite 2 TBSP + 1 tsp 53 g
Hydroquinone 1-1/2 tsp 4.5 g
Sodium carbonate 1/4 tsp + 1/8 tsp 2.3 g
Borax 1/2 tsp 2.5 g
Potassium bromide 1/8 tsp 10 ml of a 10 wt% solution
Phenidone 1/8 tsp 0.25 g or 125 ml concentrate
Water to make 1 liter
The phenidone concentrate:
Water at 125F 3 cups
Sodium bisulphite 1 tsp
Phenidone 1 tsp
Water to make 1 liter
Develop at 68° for 2.25 to 5.25 minutes - or starters. As was usually the case, temps and times were highly variable - but outside the typical increase in base density + fog, either developer was pretty decent, and you could take pics of herds of black cats on a moonless night during a black out with no problems.
I used to use Tri-X Pro and Acu-1 developer for IS... (
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Wow Gene, Deja Vu all over again. You take me way back to the days when one had to be part chemist to develop film and prints.
All I have to is, you did a bang up job. Keep it " UP. "
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