Hi,
When do we use HDR photo? and why?
Is it for use in any special situation?
thank you
Mitra
True HDR is created from multiple, bracketed exposures. This does require a motionless subject and tripod. Think landscapes in conditions without wind.
Psuedo HDR can be derived from a single digital photo file in software.
The purpose of HDR is to expand the apparent dynamic range of a camera system. HDR images can be very striking if done well. They can also be sci fi creepy if that's the intent.
As I understand it they are intended for high contrast scenes where the camera can't normally capture all the colors and tones, thus several images exposed for the different areas..bright, shadow and the in between..as Photoarts mentioned, they can be really well done and easily overdone..
I honestly don't recommend using HDR on people unless there is a great open landscape or waterscape behind them. HDR is an amazing tool if used correctly. If creating fine art photographs with the subject being a person or thing, HDR can create a very unique image! It depends on what you are looking for out of your photographs. Good luck!
There are OTHER techniques apart from HDR to handle people pictures with issues.
They are the Blend Modes in Photoshop, and I think, in Paintshop Pro.
Say, for example, your fill flash did not go off and you have a picture with a nicely exposed background, but the person in the foreground is too dark.
Try this:
I Photoshop, open the image. Select All. Copy. Paste. Now you have two layers. Click on the top layer to select it. Above the layer, you will see a button with the word "Normal" on it. This is the Blend Mode. Click on that button, and select "Screen."
Suddenly the whole image gets brighter. Now with the eraser tool, start with a nice BIG eraser and erase away the background. You will see it return to normal. Use ever smaller erasers as you approach your foreground subject.
Once the background looks normal and the subject looks brighter, but not bright enough... Duplicate the top layer, which is the one you have been erasing, and, bingo, the subject is brighter still. Duplicate again if you need to. Each time, a mathematical equation ("Screen") is done to the pixels in the image, which if stacked vertically, magnifies the effect.
Yes, there are much faster ways to do this in Photoshop, but this is the easiest way, I think, to introduce you to some real POWER in your digital darkroom.
Hint: Things too bright? Instead of "Screen," blend with "Multiply."
Another Hint: If one iteration of "Screen" makes things TOO bright... lower the Screened Layer's Opacity. Fully variable. Cool, no? Same goes for "Multiply" and all the other Blend Modes.
Yet Another Hint: If the color becomes too saturated in a blend operation, it is the fault of the blend layer. So, what you do is bring up the Hue/Saturation control and LOWER the saturation of the blend layer. This gives brightness, or darkness, but far less color shift.
This also works on the smaller scale, like: darkening pesky bright skies, brightening eyes, darkening lipstick, increasing blondness, adding streaks of light to flatly lit hair. It really helps to know how to paint a mask for these things, but that's another lesson, unless you look it up.
Oops, I've made a bunch of heroes, perhaps.
PhotoArtsLA wrote:
There are OTHER techniques apart from HDR to handle people pictures with issues.
They are the Blend Modes in Photoshop, and I think, in Paintshop Pro.
Say, for example, your fill flash did not go off and you have a picture with a nicely exposed background, but the person in the foreground is too dark.
Try this:
I Photoshop, open the image. Select All. Copy. Paste. Now you have two layers. Click on the top layer to select it. Above the layer, you will see a button with the word "Normal" on it. This is the Blend Mode. Click on that button, and select "Screen."
Suddenly the whole image gets brighter. Now with the eraser tool, start with a nice BIG eraser and erase away the background. You will see it return to normal. Use ever smaller erasers as you approach your foreground subject.
Once the background looks normal and the subject looks brighter, but not bright enough... Duplicate the top layer, which is the one you have been erasing, and, bingo, the subject is brighter still. Duplicate again if you need to. Each time, a mathematical equation ("Screen") is done to the pixels in the image, which if stacked vertically, magnifies the effect.
Yes, there are much faster ways to do this in Photoshop, but this is the easiest way, I think, to introduce you to some real POWER in your digital darkroom.
Hint: Things too bright? Instead of "Screen," blend with "Multiply."
Another Hint: If one iteration of "Screen" makes things TOO bright... lower the Screened Layer's Opacity. Fully variable. Cool, no? Same goes for "Multiply" and all the other Blend Modes.
Yet Another Hint: If the color becomes too saturated in a blend operation, it is the fault of the blend layer. So, what you do is bring up the Hue/Saturation control and LOWER the saturation of the blend layer. This gives brightness, or darkness, but far less color shift.
This also works on the smaller scale, like: darkening pesky bright skies, brightening eyes, darkening lipstick, increasing blondness, adding streaks of light to flatly lit hair. It really helps to know how to paint a mask for these things, but that's another lesson, unless you look it up.
Oops, I've made a bunch of heroes, perhaps.
There are OTHER techniques apart from HDR to handl... (
show quote)
Great advice! I was more or less referring to a beginner but either way, this is all true.
That was good advise.
HDR is used when you have whites that blown out and dark colors that are too black...like interior architectural shots when you want the inside properly exposed and the view through a window properly exposed.
Ya put that camera on a tripod and expose for the window view and then expose for the interior view, then take 1-3 more images with exposure set between the two extremes.
In architectural work, you can just light it to match the outdoor sun, or wait for "magic hour" when the interior/exterior begin to match naturally (which is better to show off lighting design) or try HDR, but the interior exposure may involve too much blooming around the windows which could disturb the effect.
I have included an architectural shot I did which tames the exterior brightness with thousands of watt seconds of strobe.
This is the view from the front door. 4x5 view camera, transparency film.
Massively strobe lit interior by Richard Brown
PhotoArtsLA wrote:
In architectural work, you can just light it to match the outdoor sun, or wait for "magic hour" when the interior/exterior begin to match naturally (which is better to show off lighting design) or try HDR, but the interior exposure may involve too much blooming around the windows which could disturb the effect.
I have included an architectural shot I did which tames the exterior brightness with thousands of watt seconds of strobe.
wow, is that the inside of someones home?
Yes, I used to do architectural photography for a builder of spectacular custom homes, all over 20,000 square feet.
Aah...that is quite nice. But for normal folks, without all that lighting and a view camera, HDR is more cost effective.
Simplest: Shooting at Magic Hour would be an elegant solution and show off the lighting. No need for HDR.
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