seeker613 Loc: Brooklyn, N.Y.

Seeking recommendations for books/tutorials that expand on the "what" of the manual, for the why/how/when & best practices - uses on topics of averaging sep. flash readings for main/key 2dary/fill & how/why I'd use flash's light ratios, & flash ev compensation. Also the why/when on how to get the most out of the flash duration feature.

Thanks in advance, seeker613

Rab-Eye Loc: Indiana

Sekonic them selves published a book on use of light meters. Yours is much newer, but if they still have that book available it could be helpful to you. I would get in touch with them.

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

I assume you are seeking information on flash lighting for portraiture as to exposure, ratio and the use and technique of metering.

I have been using electronic flash for portraits since 1959 when I retired my hot lights and converted my studio for flash usage. Here's my advice.

The best and most consistent results are derived from the manual operation of your camera/lighting system. Using an exposure meter to get you into the exposure and ratio ballpark is handy but there are many variations that your meter won't factor in. You can make readings but tests will enable you to hone in on exact exposure and ratio control.

I don't know waht kind of lights you are using and if they are used directly or modified, but the basics apply to both.

The meter you mention has a retractable light collector. When setting up a basic studio-like portrait arrangement use the meter with the dome in the retracted position.

For determining the basic exposure for the MAIN off-camer light- let's say it is 3 feet from the subject at 45-degrees. Your meter indicates f/8 at the selected ISO. Your shutter speed is set within the proper synchronization range but for this purpose, we are not factoring in ambient light- we are exposing for flash only.
Your fill light is on or near the camera. in order to create modelling via light and shadow and retain some detail in the shadows, you need an aperture reading below the main light. You need a ratio from 1:2 up to 1:4 depending on the effect you want. So... you will need to adjust the power or move the fill light to where you get readings of f/5.6, f/4 and f/2.8. The more the differential the higher the ratio, the deeper the shadows and the more dramatic the lighting. These stated stops are just for example- you may start at f/11 and work from there or whatever.

Here waht the meter won't tell you. Depending on the size of the room, the reflectivity of the walls and any other lights in your setup (hair light, kicker, or background light, etc.) there is a factor of UNSEEN SECONDARY LIGHT. That is all the extraneous light that bounces off the walls and ceiling and usually adds to the fill so you may find that you need to reduce the output of your fill ligh to attain the desired ratio. In a lar foom such as a church, a large ballroom or auditorium, where the is less bounce, you may need more fill light to provided ample shadow detail.

Another factor that will evade your meter is ANGLE OF INCIDENCE. If you have two lights of the same power and distance from the subject- one at less than 90-degrees to the camera/subject axis and the other in excess of 90-degrees, your meter will read both lights at the same aperture but the light that is beyond 90 degrees will show as brighter on the subject. The angle of incident is equal to the angle of reflection and incident light readings can not "see" the difference. So you will need to adjust kicker lights, accent lights, hair lights, and profile and rim lights, which come in at as much as 135-degrees, as per your tests.

Your meter will also help you determine the ratio in flash fill situations. You can take a natural daylight reading and add flash, below that reading, to provide the fill. You can expose for the flash and adjust the shutter speed to accommodate the ambient light.

If you tell me waht kinda lighting gear you have and want kind of subjects you are shooting, I could suggest some more specific setups.

Send my regards to Brooklyn- Born and raised in Bet-Sty!

seeker613 Loc: Brooklyn, N.Y.

E.L. Your regards sent to BK! Thanks for the detailed answer. I was looking for recommendations of books & tutorials on metering that would take me beyond the "what" of the manual, to get into the working principles on averaging flashes, using ratios, flash compensation, & how to best incorporate the meter's flash duration feature.

Yes, I'm looking to master metering for portraits, on issues relating to averaging multi flashes (Godox V1 & a couple of V860ii's) & I understand ea. light should be separately metered on a diff channel, to isolate what ea. flash is contributing & w/the meter triggering the flash, pointing it fm subject to flash; but unsure of how to best average 2 or 3 sets of ƒ-stops & shutter speeds in memory once I've separately metered ea. light. - or is it better to meter w/main, then w/fill & then other lights?

Also, pls explain why the lumosphere should be retracted if the subject is 3D.

I've 'read up' on lighting; & gone to some seminars at Adorama & B&H to get basics (pre-Covid). Now I'm mainly doing Street photography, & wanted to get into portraits b4 the Covid shutdown… so I'm using the time to build up the technical side of portrait lighting so I can use it w/good understanding when I move onto portraits. Like how I got David Busch's book: "Guide to Nikon D500 Digital Photography" while still saving up to upgrade my old camera, so I could be technically proficient once I got it.

I like to be technically aware so I can concentrate on the creative side…

Thanks again, seeker613

seeker613 Loc: Brooklyn, N.Y.

Rab Eye, thanks, sounds good. Maybe they've even updated the book!

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

OK!

The sphere, when fully extended collects light from multiple directions which is the right position for regular general incident light readings. The meter is held at the subject and the sphere is turned toward the camera. When you are analyzing a setup and want to isolate the reading for each light, retracting the dome will work more effectively and accurately. Hold the meter at the subject and point the retracted dome toward the light you are reading. Older models had an interchangeable flat disc to replace the dome to read less omnidirectional light- your model is more convenient.

When working indoors where the flash system is your only source of light in a portrait setup, the flash duration is not critical unless you need to freeze very rapid action. I'll check the specs on your model to see how the duration setting factors in. It could be for some of the latest flash modes with extremely fast durations or HHS features.

Most general-purpose flash units run at about 1/1000 sec. but sometimes at very low power settings or when the TTL thyristor circuit kicks in, it can be appreciably shorter. Indoors where the ambient ligh is low the shutter speed will have little or no effect on the exposure- the sensor only SEES the flash. Out of doors or where the is a very high level of ambient light, the shutter speed controls how much of the ambient light factors in with the flas exposure.

I'll check out your meter specs and get back to you.

As for reading material- check out this link. It's very traditional- kinda old school but there is a very comprehensive portrait lighting content.

http://blog.kitfphoto.com/Zeltsman/

tcthome Loc: NJ

Scroll down on this page link. Hope this helps. , Tom

https://sekonic.com/sekonic-l-858d-u-speedmaster-light-meter/