TomHackett Loc: Kingston, New York

This may be a little off the beaten path, as it is not about gear or technique per se.

I have decided that for prints to be displayed in a gallery, and for those I sell to individuals, I want to sign on the back of the print. For me, the purpose of signing is not to display a signature on the photograph itself, but to provide the purchaser with information and perhaps assurance of the origin of the print.

I prefer to sign on the photograph itself, since a signature on the mat or anywhere else can easily become separated from the print. The point of the signature, for me, is to attest that I made the photograph.

Given these decisions (and I know there will be people who have decided otherwise and will question my decisions), what do you who also sign on the back use to sign with? Since I use archival materials and techniques so that the print will last a long time, what kind of ink or other material should be used so that the signature does not fade or cause damage?

I understand that pencil is often preferred (especially for signing on the front of the mat), and that is what I have been using up until now. I think I sign with a light touch, but yesterday I looked at a print I had recently signed and could see that the front of the print was marred by the image of my signature on the back.

I'd be interested in information on successful en verso signing techniques and materials

Ourspolair

Maybe you should use a felt marker.

Shellback Loc: North of Cheyenne Bottoms Wetlands - Kansas

Check out Custom Ink Stamps with your logo, name, address, etc... Some offer various colors -

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

You can prepare a Certificate of Authenticity, printed on archival paper, sign it in archival rollerball ink pen (Sakura), and attach it to the artwork using an archival PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP

You might try Micron pens or Faber Castell pens, I've used both in the past. The Certificate of Authenticity thing just does not work for me for photos, I'm not really sure why, but I laughed the one time I saw someone do that. I think it just seems "high-handed" to me for a photo that cost a couple of hundred dollars but maybe if you are selling work for a couple of thousand dollars then I could see that. Just my thought on that. When I sold work in a public television art auction one of the rules was you had to sign the image on the front, not via computer, but via hand. I hate my signature but I did it: I thought it detracted from my image! All of this is variable and up to the photographer to decide. A plain old thin tipped felt marker would probably even work but it could bleed through so try it out on something you are not keeping first. I like the ink stamp idea just as a way to provide information, but artwork should actually be signed in some fashion.

TomHackett Loc: Kingston, New York

Thanks, everyone. I'm going with STA Black Micro-Pen Fineliner Ink Pens.

Morning Star Loc: West coast, North of the 49th N.

Have you tried placing your photo on a hard surface to sign it on the back? I'm not so much thinking of a wooden table top, but more along the lines of something as hard as marble, like maybe a countertop?

Dalek Loc: Detroit, Miami, Goffstown

I sign mine in gold or silver at the lower right

TomHackett Loc: Kingston, New York

Thanks, Morning Star. I think that's definitely a good idea.

Sensei

I would use a felt tip marker on the back, be sure to have the photo on a hard surface when you write on it. I find that signing it in pencil on the mat increases the saleability. With original art (not photographs) I sign the image.

Timmers Loc: San Antonio Texas.

When you mark a photograph you do it as a series. This is a tradition that comes from print making that existed long before photography's invention. For your print to have any validity with in the traditions of the art world you need to mark the image into or as a part of the image area. In photography a permanent mark of signature is often placed in the right hand corner such that the physical signature actual/mark enters the image area. Following the print making traditions, the numbering and lettering are used. The manner of numbering is to place it directly below or further to the right of the signature much like 5 of 100, or 5/100. This states this is the 5th of 100 images of the image, and no more will be made. The letter, say "B" tells you this is the second of the letter portion of the series. Many insist to use the same as the numbering portion say "B" of "F" or B/F which means an artist reserve of five copies exist by the artist/photographer.

In my own work I explain that anyone can print a copy of my work, with or with out my permission, and that the only true artist print will be signed with my physical signature. These I will do in the range of $1,000 to $3,000 range. Any Polaroid transfers are valued for $5,000 to $8,000.

Yes, I have sold to collectors and give signed images to individuals (models get some on occasion).

sudamar Loc: Southern Indiana

Why not have a signature rubber stamp made up. I have been stamping the back of my photos for many years, with no problems.

Timmers Loc: San Antonio Texas.

In days gone by stamping the back of resin coated prints (RC Prints) we used finger print ink as it was quick drying and would work on all RC papers and was considered permanent. But stamping prints is not the same as signing a print.

chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA

...I sign on the back, paper prints in pencil (if they're framed I've attached them to hardboard and sign that) and canvas in archival black ink on the border above my staples. Not a fan of a signature in front detracting from the print. YMMV.