Help with Moon Photo (Page 3): 1/100 of a sec. F8 ISO 64 is how I shoot it. Remember its bright, like shooting the sun. ( you are shooting the sun reflection)...

Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum

Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register ☰

Help with Moon Photo

Page <<first <prev 3 of 4 next>

Mar 8, 2021 19:45:37 #

bdk Loc: Sanibel Fl.

1/100 of a sec. F8 ISO 64 is how I shoot it. Remember its bright, like shooting the sun. ( you are shooting the sun reflection)

Mar 12, 2021 09:22:32 #

Electric Gnome Loc: Norwich UK

I have done some research and stacked images is the way to go, then process the images with software like PIPP and Registax.

May 23, 2021 16:31:24 #

rbtree Loc: Shoreline, WA, United States

Jaackil wrote:

Getting a sharp full moon with detail and contrast... (show quote)

As the moon is 290k miles away, I have to disagree with you there. I've been imaging the moon for many years. Focus on the moon, which is at infinity, switch to manual, and fire away.

May 23, 2021 20:31:09 #

Hip Coyote

Electric Gnome wrote:

I have done some research and stacked images is the way to go, then process the images with software like PIPP and Registax.

The proper focus on the moon is infinity. I am not understanding how one could stack images to get a better photo of the moon. I am not an expert, but have had some success...the moon is very bright...so stop the exposure down. If you mean bracket exposures, that might work. In my case, I have a mirrorless, so what I saw in the viewfinder was an accurate representation of what I captured.

May 23, 2021 21:12:55 #

rbtree Loc: Shoreline, WA, United States

May 23, 2021 22:22:48 #

rbtree Loc: Shoreline, WA, United States

Sorry about the previous post. Tried to remove it, too late now it seems. Take a good look at this image, folks. All parts of the moon are tack sharp. Due to the side light of a 3/4 moon, there will be more relief on the most side-lit parts... which gives an apparent increase in sharpness. Note I said apparent. Click to enlarge.

Canon R5, 500 f/4 II and 1.4x Extender, 1/400 sec f/6.3, ISO 500 tripod, 10 sec delay. I started to add "mirror lockup", but not with this camera, yo!!

Only way to get more sharpness or resolution than this combo would be with a tracked telescope, I'd say. Or an 800 f/5.6

(Download)

May 23, 2021 22:25:58 #

rbtree Loc: Shoreline, WA, United States

qasas3251 wrote:

I shot both with the same gear, the camera was a Cannon 7D, with a Cannon 150-600 MM lens.

I assume you mean either Sigma or Tamron, as the closest Canon is the 100-400. I have the Tammy 150-600 G2. Great lens. If you see my post just above, you'll see what an even better lens (and camera) are capable of.

May 25, 2021 13:41:55 #

flyboy61 Loc: The Great American Desert

PoppieJ wrote:

it might be because the full moon does not have the contrast that a partial moon has. The full moon has the sun hitting it straight on to our viewpoint so it is like taking photos in high noon.

Yup!

May 25, 2021 13:50:55 #

flyboy61 Loc: The Great American Desert

If you can focus stack, go for it, but I would suggest first trying a modification of the "Sunny 16" rule, guideline, suggestion.
The moon is a front-lighted subject...full sunlight! Soooo... 100-200 ISO, 100-200 Shutter speed, F/16 to start, tripod if you got it, then bracket, to see what you like. It may come out "Sunny 11" or some other setting, all close to the original. Write down what works...otherwise you will forget! sm12: Good luck!

May 25, 2021 14:22:29 #

rbtree Loc: Shoreline, WA, United States

Why focus stack? The moon is at infinity, so only one image will be in focus.

Whether zoomed in or not, spot focus and metering should be used. Then turn off AF. Plus use a tripod and 10 sec delay.

May 28, 2021 01:54:44 #

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

This may not be the only cause, but it is clearly one cause: the crescent Moon is sharpest where side lighting crosses over the craters (on the right side). The flat head-on parts are similar in sharpness to the full Moon, yes?

Specular side lighting gives sharper texture detail than flat frontal light because it does not reach into the cracks and crevices.

May 28, 2021 01:59:24 #

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

Jaackil wrote:

Getting a sharp full moon with detail and contrast... (show quote)

Surely at that distance, everything is in the plane of focus... or within the strictest zone of depth of field.

Jun 15, 2021 12:05:05 #

Hip Coyote

rbtree wrote:

Why focus stack? The moon is at infinity, so only one image will be in focus.

Whether zoomed in or not, spot focus and metering should be used. Then turn off AF. Plus use a tripod and 10 sec delay.

Agree...if anything bracketing exposure might help the OP get in the right range, but focus stacking does not make sense, in my amateur photo mind. The object is at infinity focus.

Jul 1, 2021 17:12:50 #

dino21 Loc: McAllen, TX

letmedance wrote:

The full moon has no shadows, The partial moon has distinct shadows.

Letmedance is absolutely correct.

Jul 4, 2021 14:51:25 #

DanielB Loc: San Diego, Ca

qasas3251 wrote:

I have been photo graphing the Moon and I can't se... (show quote)

A lot of things come into play here but it could be atmospheric also. Cool or even cold nights with no haze are best for this type of shooting. A sturdy tripod makes a difference and shoot on silent mode if you have it. That will flip the mirror up first letting the camera settle before shutter release. Last try with a shutter release cord instead of using your hands on the camera - you would be surprised how much your camera moves with hands on.

Page <<first <prev 3 of 4 next>

If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.

Photo Analysis

Home | Latest Digest | Back to Top | All Sections

UglyHedgehog.com - Forum