Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Photo Analysis
low light
Page <prev 2 of 3 next>
Sep 12, 2020 12:05:06   #
LEWHITE7747 Loc: 33773
 
The look is very different. I love the blue hour and mine were shot at 5 am. I shoot my sun rises during the blue hour. Don't like the actual sunrise. Thanks for the pic . It was so good to show the sharp contrast from night and early morning.

Reply
Sep 12, 2020 12:22:56   #
Nicholas J DeSciose
 
Experiment, practice. Try different lenses different timer settings. Make sure your lenses are clean. Or maybe I’m purposely smear some nose grease on around the edges you might like the effect always use a tripodAnd focus very carefully.

Reply
Sep 12, 2020 12:33:40   #
LEWHITE7747 Loc: 33773
 
I had some flaring and I had a area of the lens that was dirty. Had a Rokinon 14mm 2.8 prime. Flaring is a problem with these wide lenes. Cleaning the lens worked. I have had a problem adjusting to the Canon 5DSR and the 50 megapixels. My crop (wild life ) lenes were easier to use. With this camera only the best lenes will work. Have Sigma Art lenes that work great. I know I over saturate and warm the colors too much. It is what I like. I probably should tone it down somewhat. Thanks so much for your input.

Reply
 
 
Sep 12, 2020 13:57:16   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
I like what you are working to do here

Unless I just missed it, I don't see that you have told us what camera you are using or what ISO you chose. I'd probably approach this kind of shooting differently if using my D300 versus using a newer camera like a D810. With the older camera, I would definitely use a lower ISO and a longer exposure in order to preserve the dynamic range. But with a newer camera, I would use a moderate ISO, maybe as high as 3200, depending on the camera, but maybe quite a bit lower. I would pull back my exposure quite a bit (be sure to set your picture control to one of the "flat" choices or else reduce contrast so that you can still get a usable preview on your rear monitor). There is quite a bit of dynamic range here, and your exposure is at least a stop or two greater than you may think is ideal (check the "flare boxes" around the red clearance warning beacons).

Some of the full answer that I would give you depends on what you are targeting in your final image. Some is tied to the capabilities of your camera. (This is a case where equipment can and does make a difference.) But my approach is that the lights are the key to the image and that it is important not to overexpose the. You want to be able to either bring up the lower tones in post processing or else capture them separately in a second image. The challenge with that, though, is that the flare from overexposure of the lights will bleed into the lower key areas.

Reply
Sep 12, 2020 14:55:22   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
Smaller aperatures ar longer shutter speed will often yield those kinda star patterns aroud point light sources- they from in the shape of your diaphragm blades. Personally, I find the effect pleasant and adds to the charm and romance of nigh scenes. If you don't like the effect, shoot at a wider aperture, if you don't need the depth of field, about 2- stop down from the maximim aperature where the lens performs at it best. If the shutter speed requirement is still too long, increase the ISO.

If you want black skies, you can shoot anytime after dark. If you want more of a dramatic skyscape as a background to your skylines you can shoot at the so-called magic hour, AKA twilight where there is visible blue and/or other "sunset" color still visible in the sky. If you white balance for the building lights and streetlights, the sky will go a very rich blue. If you white balance for true color in the blue sky, the buildings and street ligh will record as appreciate warmer. Fluorescent, sodium vapor, or LED interior and exterior lighting may register as green, orange, or cyan when white balancing for the sky o the neutral colar of the buildings.

Bad flare is when the light striking the lens causes a significant loss of contrast or obliterates (washes out) detail in the scene. A lens shade will prevent nearby sources of extraneous light from striking the lens- it won't eliminate "halos or star patterns" around point light sources. During daylight hours the sun striking the lens is a common cause of flare. At night, to cause a significant flare, it would have to be from a nearby direct light source or a brig concentrated source at a distance such headlights, a beacon, floodlights, etc.

What you have in you pictures is a classic example of Fraunhofer Diffraction, not lens flare! Here's a link to the science that bears out my theory and possible remedy.

https://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/6605/why-do-light-sources-appear-as-stars-sometimes

Reply
Sep 12, 2020 15:04:15   #
LEWHITE7747 Loc: 33773
 
I am using a Canon 5DSR and a Rokinon 14mm 2.8. I have it 2 stops down and 200iso. First time with Lens and flaring is a problem. Oversaturated I know. Still experimenting with this lens.

Reply
Sep 12, 2020 15:10:16   #
LEWHITE7747 Loc: 33773
 
I am using a Canon 5DSR and a Rokinon 14mm 2.8. I have it at 2 stops down and higher f stop for the starburst effect. Never had this flaring or what it is. First time with Lens. Will look at that link you sent me. I like shooting in the morning during the blue period. Magor complaint is the flaring (have a hood on). Love the lens , just got to get a handle on the flaring . Not happy with this. Thank you so much for your critique.

Reply
 
 
Sep 12, 2020 16:50:30   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
LEWHITE7747 wrote:
I am using a Canon 5DSR and a Rokinon 14mm 2.8. I have it at 2 stops down and higher f stop for the starburst effect. Never had this flaring or what it is. First time with Lens. Will look at that link you sent me. I like shooting in the morning during the blue period. Magor complaint is the flaring (have a hood on). Love the lens , just got to get a handle on the flaring . Not happy with this. Thank you so much for your critique.


Are you dissatisfied with the "starburst", which is not caused by flare, or are you gettg actual flare whic has some recognizable symtoms? When you get falre-out- you lose contrast, you migh see a light hit in a portion of the image that is washe out or appears as a kinda spectrum effect that you see when light travels through a prism- sometimes it looks like a cone-shaped rainbow.

Sometimes even well designed and coated wide-angle lenses have a propensity to pick up more unwanted extrenous light simply because of their wide field of view and large physical size. An ordinary lens shade, that is designed for that short focal length and will not cause vignetting, may be too shallow to block light coming in at certain angles. It is sometimes necessary to provide additional shading with a black gobo- a collapsible black disk or just a piece of black Foam-Cor or cardboard, to shield the lens from direct light and remain out of the field of view. If the camera is mounted on a tripod, you can come around front and see the light striking the lens and if you hands are free, you can easily block it with the gobo. Just check the viewfinder to make sure it's not in the way.

You lens is not the most expensive in its category but according to it's specifications it shod deliver good results. Even the top-of-the-line super-wide-angle lenses can falre out given the adverse conditions.

Reply
Sep 12, 2020 17:04:58   #
LEWHITE7747 Loc: 33773
 
Thank you for your advice about the shield to block the light. I have also read articles on Fraunhofer Diffraction and that the flaring is light diffraction. The starburst is a result of a high f/stop. I usually use 18. By doing this the shutter remains open longer adding to the flaring. Maybe lowering the f/stop, upping the iso, thus increasing the shutter speed. Also maybe go down a whole stop more would also increase shutter speed a limit the flaring. Blocking the light sounds interesting. Have to work more with this wide angle and maybe get to an acceptable result. Thanks so much for your input.

Reply
Sep 12, 2020 17:28:09   #
Shooter41 Loc: Wichita, KS
 
You might want to try a polarizing filter. Take three shots and rotate the polarizing filter after each exposure. I often get richer colors and no glare points where the bright light goes straight into the camera's sensor with wide open aperture causing glare. Hope this is helpful.

Reply
Sep 12, 2020 17:42:12   #
LEWHITE7747 Loc: 33773
 
Will try Thanks for the tip.

Reply
 
 
Sep 13, 2020 08:47:23   #
marty wild Loc: England
 
LEWHITE7747 wrote:
Still having problems with night cityscapes---suggestions--also flaring of the lights on the right side of photo. What caused this and how to eliminate this?
I think you will have to do multiplication of shoots and stack focus across the vast area you are wanting to capture you can alway try F16 with ND filter locked down on a good quality tripod @ ss of 90 open then lower the time your sensor is open. Have you tried bracketing to create HDR? Also try shooting mirror up to limit vibrations with trigger release, locked down on tripod

Reply
Sep 13, 2020 09:13:34   #
LEWHITE7747 Loc: 33773
 
I am kind of against stacking because of these cell phones that do this automatically. They are taking over and real photograpy is going away. I have tried bracketing and opened up a little more without losing starburst effect, went down another stop, upped the iso, all to decrease the shutter time. Shooting live view so the mirror is up. Flaring or diffraction is something these wide angle lens have. Trigger release, Gitzmo tripod. Just have to use some sort of block on the direct light. Only one photo has this, obviously because of the f/18 to get the starburst increasing the shutter time. Never had this happen before. thanks for your input.

Reply
Sep 13, 2020 09:29:01   #
marty wild Loc: England
 
Top man for your enthusiasm but I think the magazine shot’s are all focus stacked. But I get what you saying. Keep clicking tog 👍💯

Reply
Sep 13, 2020 11:01:51   #
User ID
 
Ourspolair wrote:
First shot lens flare - are you using your lens hood? Do you have a "protective" filter on your lens?


Agree this might be a time for removing the filter but a lens hood is meaningless here. If an aircraft were approaching head on, landing lights glaring, and it were just a bit OUTSIDE of the frame, thaz when a hood helps. Lights inside the frame are not blocked by the hood ... unless you’re using the wrong hood so the hood itself is seen inside the frame.

Reply
Page <prev 2 of 3 next>
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Photo Analysis
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.