rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Blinkies indicate potentially overexposed or near overexposure in the camera processed jpg. The RAW file contains more data that is potentially available through processing. Here are some examples I posted in another section on UHH. You can see where the SOOC image appears to have been overexposed. In reality, the RAW files contained considerable information.
https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-648979-1.html
--Bob

BooIsMyCat Loc: Somewhere

I've tried the zone system and find that I prefer to work with other methods. With the advances in LR and PS along with ON1 and other post-processing software, one can do wonders with the darks, mid-tones, and lights w/o using the zone system.

BooIsMyCat Loc: Somewhere

It is my understanding that when shooting jpg, you push the histogram to 'almost' touching the right side but, when shooting raw, you can push the histogram a tad bit more but, don't over-do it.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Hey Boo, you mentioned on page 1 about using ETTR. I won't repeat the entire content of two of my prior posts, but my approach is to look quickly at a test image (or few) to see the location of potential over-exposure based on the location of the blinking highlight warnings.

The several example images in both linked discussions show ETTR in practice, with both the original image and the processed result provided.

ETTR in Practice

ETTR in Practice II

I don't care about the shape nor location of the histogram graph. Rather, I care that I've pushed my exposure slightly over the edge or that I pull-back by 1/3 to 2/3rd of a stop to the left, shooting in RAW. In my processing, I adjust the exposure to be the desired result. I'm shooting RAW, I'm already committed to processing each and every image.

A portrait likely shouldn't have any blinking warnings where a landscape with some distant clouds blinking are two examples of how I reference the highlight warnings and made adjustments. The goal being to capture the brightest exposure into the RAW file for processing, without losing data due to blown highlights in critical aspects of the composition. The "II" post includes a detailed example of the ability to recover highlights even where the blinkies might say they have been lost.

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Exactly 'right' on this idea of pushing the exposure to the right. See the examples in the links just provided in my earlier reply. The risk of blinking and non-recoverable highlights in JPEG is real, but still some blinking even in JPEG does not necessarily mean a ruined image. It really depends on the context of where in the composition those highlight warnings occur in both file type, just especially more so in JPEG.

BooIsMyCat Loc: Somewhere

Thank you for the links. I think I skimmed them prior to this but now that I've posted this question here, I'll have to go back and read them again. I'm always open to learning how to improve my photography.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

I use all the information I can find before, during and after taking a picture to maximize the information recorded by the camera. That includes the histogram. The camera histogram is somewhat useful to get a good ballpark exposure setting. The more you use it the more accurately you can use the information provided in it to nail highlight exposure without over exposure.

Movement has nothing to do with exposure, other than deciding you want/don't want blur - then it affects shutter speed directly, and to keep the exposure value consistent, it will affect aperture and ISO as well.

BooIsMyCat Loc: Somewhere

Outside of the comment on movement, I think your response is the best one yet.

As for movement, I was trying to say that if a newbie read articles on using the histogram, then tried to adjust exposure on a moving subject, using the histogram, they would get lost. It would be a quick learning experience though. I guess I should have left that out but, I'd bet there has been more than one newbie who tried this.

selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA

I never look at the camera's histogram because it only represents the distribution of tones for the entire image. It's tied to the camera's JPEG, not the raw file.

The highlight warnings are more useful because they tell me where in the image the highlights might be getting blown out in the raw file.

But you need to know when your camera's highlight warnings start to flash. Depending on your camera and how you have it set up they might show up between 0 and 1½ stops before the raw file reaches its maximum value. For example, my Fuji flashes when the raw file highlights are blown, my Sony about 1½ stops earlier and my Nikons somewhere in between. And that doesn't change with the ISO setting.

If your camera has Zebra warnings it's even more useful since you can see them before you trip the shutter.

User ID

Movement has no problematic effect on the histogram. The graph wriggles and pulses some, but nothing that should confuse the user. Movement just sorta animates the graph and makes it look more alive.

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

Vet, in olden times we had cameras with pop-up shades for the ground glass screen--for instance, on Crown Graphics and on twin-lens reflex cameras; on big view cameras we used a focusing cloth. I realize that for taking the pictures today we have a shaded (small) viewfinder--but this does not help us see the screen for review. Must we go back to the big cloth again?

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

Not if you have an eye level viewfinder, especially if it is an evf.
I do not use the screen on the back of the camera for reviewing images, mostly, sometimes, only for checking the histogram and menu choices.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

👍👍 Me too.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

I was using one of those black cloths just this last weekend.
--Bob

jimbuckley Loc: Arizona

Just a little more, yes!