How to obtain sharp images in digital photography (Page 2): Thank you and good question John! I use a wired shutter release on a tripod more often than the delayed shutter, sometimes...

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How to obtain sharp images in digital photography

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Jun 7, 2020 09:47:53 #

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

john451 wrote:

Thanks for the tips. When, or would you ever, recommend using "exposure delay" to avoid mirror slap for us users of cameras that still have mirrors?

Thank you and good question John! I use a wired shutter release on a tripod more often than the delayed shutter, sometimes both, typically when shooting at speeds of 1-second or longer. I use / consider a wired release for anything at 1/30 sec or slower, but it does depend on the subject and the situation and having the camera already on a tripod.

Jun 7, 2020 09:47:56 #

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Petunia in NY wrote:

Thank you so much for these lessons and how to employ them. The accompanying photos are a huge help.

I wonder if it can be "pinned" to the top for newcomers to see.

Thank you Petunia! Consider using the 'bookmark' option at the upper left of the page. You can add a short comment to remind yourself of why you bookmarked any UHH posts. You can access your bookmarks from the "My Profile" link at the top of all UHH pages.

Jun 7, 2020 09:48:00 #

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

Thank you everyone! I was out shooting some bugs yesterday that reminded me of this draft post waiting for post. It seemed today should be the day. Glad you enjoyed and find the ideas useful.

Jun 7, 2020 09:59:08 #

ejones0310 Loc: Tulsa, OK

You mentioned holding the back button all the way through the series of shots. However, I find times when my single focus point is not where I need it to be, such as the subject is off to one side. Are you advocating moving the focus point for each shot as needed? I can see that as the only way to keep holding the button. What I do is to put the focus point on my subject, press the back button and release once I have achieved focus, then reframe and take my shot. If the subject is a moving subject and won’t allow this technique, I then change to a group of focus points and select the group that lies mostly over the subject. I then hold the button while I take the shot.

Jun 7, 2020 10:03:13 #

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

ejones0310 wrote:

You mentioned holding the back button all the way ... (show quote)

Item 1 called out this idea of focus and recompose. Yes, I am strongly advocating the use of the full geography of the array of autofocus points your camera provides. Look at your camera manual and see if you can limit the available number of points and / or use a zone (group) of points rather than individually selecting from 50+ AF points as you move your specific AF to the position of the subject within the frame.

If you desire the sharpest focus of your images on the subject of each unique image, focus specifically on that subject. This becomes more important when using wide / wider apertures that purposefully blur the focus outside the point of focus within the image.

Jun 7, 2020 10:05:19 #

dannac Loc: 60 miles SW of New Orleans

Thanks CHG_CANON ... and love that egret shot.

Jun 7, 2020 10:52:18 #

Quixdraw Loc: x

The mind boggles - never knew it was so hard to get sharp photos. For 60 odd years I've made sure the camera and kit were ready, picked them up and went shooting. I suppose that's the reason I never got into True Macro or Astro, don't want to be tied down. 99% shooting on my two feet, camera in hand.
Lots of work and good info in your piece, appreciate your dedication and scholarship. Frankly, I don't have the patience to do it that way.

Jun 7, 2020 11:13:37 #

cameraf4 Loc: Delaware

One really excellent refresher course, Paul. Bookmarked as soon as I finished the first paragraph.

Jun 7, 2020 11:34:00 #

a6k Loc: Detroit & Sanibel

Peeking vs peaking:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/what-focus-peaking

I suppose the spelling doesn't matter because the meaning is, I think, identical.

That said, at least on my Sony cameras, you need the "DMF" setting to see the peaking indicators so therefore you don't get "continuous" AF.

Jun 7, 2020 11:36:40 #

a6k Loc: Detroit & Sanibel

CHG_CANON,
Your #1 is OK but for birds (example only) why not use half-press and recompose? I have also used that along with focus hold, of course, if the bird is posing.

Jun 7, 2020 11:44:23 #

photodoc16

CHG_CANON,
Thank you for taking the time to put these thoughts together for us Hogs. I do think about these topics often. However, I don't understand why you seem to discard the concept of 'focus and recompose.' Certainly this concept is invalidated if one refocuses on a second subject after already focusing on the first and then recomposes the scene. You don't have any restrictions as to the type of focus mode used although I don't see how one picks a subject with sharp focus with a zone focus method only to move the composition after focus is obtained.
Thanks,
Photodoc16

Jun 8, 2020 05:37:15 #

Red6

vlhoch wrote:

This post is exactly why I read this blog daily. Very valuable.

I agree 100%. Best post I have read here in months.

Jun 8, 2020 06:09:16 #