NGC5139, Omega Centauri, M16 Eagle
May 23, 2020 12:10:41 #
First light for my new camera last night. I'm still in the learning curve, but the ZWO ASI294MC PRO lives up to its reviews.
Celestron CPC1100 ALT/AZ at f6.3
Celestron CPC1100 ALT/AZ at f6.3
May 23, 2020 13:05:47 #
May 23, 2020 18:59:33 #
Ballard
Loc: Grass Valley, California
Hi Alberio
Very nice shots. How many subs did you use and how long were the exposures?
Very nice shots. How many subs did you use and how long were the exposures?
May 23, 2020 20:00:16 #
Ballard wrote:
Hi Alberio
Very nice shots. How many subs did you use and how long were the exposures?
Very nice shots. How many subs did you use and how long were the exposures?
That is the tricky question. I set it to capture 21 subs at 4sec each. I'm not sure if Sharp Cap saved each of the subs as a stacked image or individual frames. I processed the tif files in Nebulosity and made some uneducated guesses on the adjustments to get the look I wanted, then saved it as a jpeg and did my final tweak in Topaz AI Clear.
Sometimes luck plays an important part in this hobby. I've been watching all the videos trying to learn more. Any suggestions on workflow would be appreciated.
May 23, 2020 20:32:33 #
Ballard
Loc: Grass Valley, California
Hi Alberio
Those are real impressive images for only 4 sec exposures.
I'm still learning about pixinsight and the work flow to use it.
My current work flow goes something like this but is very pixinsight dependent.
Integrate Bias frames to make a master bias (only needed once for a given ISO since they are not temperature sensitive)
Integrate dark frames to make a master dark
Calibrate Flat frames with darks and bias masters.
Integrate Calibrated Flats to make a master flat
Find the best light frame and remove those that are not as good (usually about 10 -20 % are removed, the best light is used for registration later).
Calibrate good light frames with master bias, dark and flats.
Debayer light frames
Register debayered light frames (also create drizzle data at this point if drizzle is done)
integrate registered light frames (and drizzle data if done)
Extract background from integrated light frames
Denoise the integrated light frame with appropriate masking
(Deconvolution if done is done at this point)
(unsharp masking if done is done next with appropriate mask)
Stretch the image
Correct the image color
Save file as an xisf file with 32 or 64 bit data
Save as a tif file for any final tweaking with Picture Window, Raw Therapee and or canon photo professional).
Backup all the data on another system.
Those are real impressive images for only 4 sec exposures.
I'm still learning about pixinsight and the work flow to use it.
My current work flow goes something like this but is very pixinsight dependent.
Integrate Bias frames to make a master bias (only needed once for a given ISO since they are not temperature sensitive)
Integrate dark frames to make a master dark
Calibrate Flat frames with darks and bias masters.
Integrate Calibrated Flats to make a master flat
Find the best light frame and remove those that are not as good (usually about 10 -20 % are removed, the best light is used for registration later).
Calibrate good light frames with master bias, dark and flats.
Debayer light frames
Register debayered light frames (also create drizzle data at this point if drizzle is done)
integrate registered light frames (and drizzle data if done)
Extract background from integrated light frames
Denoise the integrated light frame with appropriate masking
(Deconvolution if done is done at this point)
(unsharp masking if done is done next with appropriate mask)
Stretch the image
Correct the image color
Save file as an xisf file with 32 or 64 bit data
Save as a tif file for any final tweaking with Picture Window, Raw Therapee and or canon photo professional).
Backup all the data on another system.
May 23, 2020 21:20:08 #
Yes, I'm wondering if those 20 individual subs were somehow already stacked images in SharpCap
I know I was watching every frame taken, 1-20 and each had a 4sec duration. I'm still trying to figure out the difference between Live Stacking and Capture. Live seems to save in fits. Format, and Capture will give you a choice. Then I'm trying to figure how to subtract a dark frame.
I'll try again tonight, I learned something new about the gain and exposure settings which might help even more.
I know I was watching every frame taken, 1-20 and each had a 4sec duration. I'm still trying to figure out the difference between Live Stacking and Capture. Live seems to save in fits. Format, and Capture will give you a choice. Then I'm trying to figure how to subtract a dark frame.
I'll try again tonight, I learned something new about the gain and exposure settings which might help even more.
May 24, 2020 01:22:57 #
May 24, 2020 01:57:13 #
Ballard
Loc: Grass Valley, California
alberio wrote:
Yes, I'm wondering if those 20 individual subs wer... (show quote)
Always a lot more to learn with this hobby.
May 25, 2020 21:50:36 #
You are going to have a very busy, and fulfilling summer, Charlie. Very nice!
I'm set up for tonight, and looking forward to some cooling evening air.
No plans. Just go see what pops up in Stellarium, or where my mount decides to end it's alignment, and what's nearby.
Hey, I'm retired so I don't care. I always find something fun to take my picturds of.
I'm set up for tonight, and looking forward to some cooling evening air.
No plans. Just go see what pops up in Stellarium, or where my mount decides to end it's alignment, and what's nearby.
Hey, I'm retired so I don't care. I always find something fun to take my picturds of.
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