Chuckwal wrote:
Sippy
your work is excellent what is your set up to do the stacking
chuck
Chuck, here's all it takes:
First, any camera can be used so nothing special is required although a changeable lens type is preferrable.
Second, a lens that has a very shallow depth of field is prefered (like a typical macro lens for example) for think of it like putting thin slices of bread together to make a loaf.
Third, we have to choose a method of advancing the focus for each shot taken and using a macro focus rail is the simplest and perhaps the least expensive method. I started with a manually screw turn operated focus rail.
Forth, decide whether you want move the camera in increments toward the subject or whether you want to move the subject toward the camera. In essence, one of them stays in place and the other moves toward it little by little each time a shot is taken.
Setup:
I recommend a tabletop setup for steadiness it goodness. Mine was simply a piece of 3/4-inch plywood 30-inches long and 12-inches wide that I mounted my focus rail on. I've attached a photo of a simple tabletop setup that I have shared in the past. It is not mine although it illustrates the essence of how simple it can be.
In this photo you will see that the camera is mounted in a fixed position. He chose a bellows and a reverse mounted prime lens to achieve magnification. Shoot in the Mirror Up mode and use a shutter release so that you do not touch the camera. No vibration is goodness.
His choice of a manual focus rail is a drill press slide table that moves in the X and Y axis. I have one exactly like it and they can be had for $39 which is a real bargain to do the job. It is screw driven and it can be turned in very, very fine advancements and it has plenty of distance to travel.
He uses an old zoom lens as a way to raise and lower the subject for the line of sight for the camera. I use a $14 laboratory scissor jack set on top of my slide table to for the Z axis up and down.
The IKEA LED light is the gold standard of lighting for macro photography and you will see more of them used than any other light. You could use a flash although batteries poop out and the recycle time is a hindrance if you have other things to do when you are shooting large number of images in your stack. Lighting diffusion can be anything that softens out the light. Plastic cups and paper towels work great for me.
The Shots:
Use Live View or tether your camera to a PC. Let's assume that you will move the subject toward the fixed in position camera (the opposite will hold true if the camera moves forward instead of the subject). Move the subject to a point to where only the closest point of the subject is in sharp focus like the tip of an antenna. Everything else will be a blur. Stop..and touch nothing now. Take a shot. Advance the subject ever so slightly toward the camera. Stop...and touch nothing now. Take a shot. Repeat, repeat, repeat, repeat until you have reached the furthest part of the subject in sharp focus.
You have now completed your first focus stacking photo session. Now for the processing of the images.
Load all of the images taken in the session into a program that is capable of performing focus stacking such as Photoshop, Affinity Photo, Zerene Stacker, Helicon Focus, etc. Because there are several of these programs you can watch a YouTube tutorial on how to use the specific program.
Lastly....enjoy.