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Challenge: "SunStars" March 26-28 2020
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Apr 7, 2020 22:44:10   #
Transbuff1985 Loc: east central Iowa
 
Rolk wrote:
I used my Canon EFS 55-250mm IS STM, set at f/22. Not my normal lens,
but I went out with a "mission" because I really wanted to shoot some
new flowers and tree buds wide open because this lens has fantastic
bokeh, but when I walked around the tree and saw the sun, I immediately
closed the lens down all the way and concentrated on partially block the
sun with a tiny limb...I was surprised it worked as well as it did.



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Apr 7, 2020 23:31:15   #
Rolk Loc: South Central PA
 
Photogirl17 wrote:
Well done Tim, Really nice one too..pg. 26


Thanks so much, Lesley. So glad you liked it!

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May 26, 2020 07:59:15   #
Marturo Loc: Western North Carolina
 
Rolk wrote:
OK - So, I know this is WAY, WAY after the challenge dates, but I finally got a pretty good, natural, SunStar...

Tim


I thought it was clear that the harder sharper edges produced better SSs.
However this fine example that Rolk posted blew that theory away.
Would a Nikkor 105mm F2.8 lens would work for Sun Stars?

Mike

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May 26, 2020 16:33:49   #
William Loc: Mississippi
 
Photogirl17 wrote:
"Sunstar How to"


1) Small Apertures – generally speaking, you’ll have to use a small aperture, something like f16 or f22 to make fully-formed crisp sun stars. Wider apertures like f2.8 or f5.6 simply don’t cut it. The starburst is caused by light passing through a small aperture and being diffracted (or spread out) across the aperture blades in the lens. The more blades and the less curved they are the better the star. Not all lenses are created equally.

2) Hard Edge Obstruction – Although you can make a nice star when shooting the sun high in the sky, you will get the best results (i.e. small size with minimal flare) when you play peek-a-boo with the light source. To do this position the camera so the sun (or other light source) is mostly obscured by some compositional element in your frame – something like a clean horizon, edge of a tree, rock outcrop or building, harder and/or smoother edges yield the best results.

3) High Fidelity Light – In addition to obscuring the light source, I find it’s best to use whats called high-fidelity light, namely light that is pure and clean. When the light is being filtered through high clouds, atmospheric haze or fog the resulting sunstars tend to be muddy and lack clarity.

4) Use Live View to Preview – Once you've settled on your composition and are ready to shoot, using Live View in conjunction with the depth of field preview button (sorry Nikon people) to preview how your sunstar will look as well as get a sense for how much flare is being produced. You may be surprised to see how much a little shift in camera position (up/down, left/right) can change the size and shape of your sunstar, as well as how much resulting flare you’ve got in the frame. You can also use this method when choosing your aperture as you’ll see exactly what the sunstar will look like. You may not need to stop all the way down to f22 to get the desired effect.

5) Not all Lenses are Equal – Unfortunately this is one area where the gear really does make the difference. Not all lenses make sunstars or handle flare equally. Generally speaking, the higher quality “pro” level glass make better, more defined sunstars than “consumer” level lenses.


Here is a Link to a Pretty good Video as well..
https://youtu.be/OpPI2AVFS4w

I'm doing this Challenge because It's something I've been trying to learn myself. and I thought some of you might want to learn as well..

The weather Here has been pretty yucky, so I haven't been able to get out as much as I'd like Of course this Viral state of affairs hasn't helped either, I'm hoping to try a bit more using artificial Light..
"Sunstar How to" br br br 1) Small Ape... (show quote)


page #1 baby you amaze me all the time#@

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May 26, 2020 16:34:48   #
William Loc: Mississippi
 
walking thru my photo past

patio studio ...
patio studio ......
(Download)

need to go down to funky town again@
need to go down to funky town again@...
(Download)

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May 26, 2020 20:54:41   #
William Loc: Mississippi
 
high/key/memory

lost a circle where the shine begins
lost a circle where the shine begins...
(Download)

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May 26, 2020 22:53:22   #
Rolk Loc: South Central PA
 
Marturo wrote:
I thought it was clear that the harder sharper edges produced better SSs.
However this fine example that Rolk posted blew that theory away.
Would a Nikkor 105mm F2.8 lens would work for Sun Stars?

Mike


One of the keys, at least in my understanding, is to use a very small aperture...I'm talking f/16 or so...
Tim

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May 27, 2020 03:01:54   #
William Loc: Mississippi
 
they read us both our rights
litlt\e do they our eights???
frustated Amaricans Inc.....

feel it in my gut now (tone/deaf)
feel it in my gut now (tone/deaf)...
(Download)

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May 27, 2020 03:10:58   #
William Loc: Mississippi
 
plant it away someday
let it grow on it's own

add water makes it's own gravy
add water makes it's own gravy...
(Download)

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May 27, 2020 07:45:58   #
Marturo Loc: Western North Carolina
 
Rolk wrote:
One of the keys, at least in my understanding, is to use a very small aperture...I'm talking f/16 or so...
Tim


Photogirl17 said:
" Not all Lenses are Equal – Unfortunately this is one area where the gear really does make the difference. Not all lenses make sunstars or handle flare equally. Generally speaking, the higher quality “pro” level glass make better, more defined sunstars than “consumer” level lenses."

Since my Nikkor 105mm F2.8 is the best of my glass collection, I was wondering if there were some lenses
that would work best for us. We who have MF & early AF lenses.

Does a prime lenses work best for SSs? Any add on filters that help to create SSs?
I am interested in how best to shoot Sun Stars. I can buy a Pro Prime AI Nikkor lens for good prices
It would be helpful to know the best choice. Like 50mm lenses are good but a 35mm is better.

Thanks for your help.
Mike

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May 27, 2020 15:51:57   #
Photogirl17 Loc: Glenwood, Ark.
 
Marturo wrote:
Photogirl17 said:
" Not all Lenses are Equal – Unfortunately this is one area where the gear really does make the difference. Not all lenses make sunstars or handle flare equally. Generally speaking, the higher quality “pro” level glass make better, more defined sunstars than “consumer” level lenses."

Since my Nikkor 105mm F2.8 is the best of my glass collection, I was wondering if there were some lenses
that would work best for us. We who have MF & early AF lenses.

Does a prime lenses work best for SSs? Any add on filters that help to create SSs?
I am interested in how best to shoot Sun Stars. I can buy a Pro Prime AI Nikkor lens for good prices
It would be helpful to know the best choice. Like 50mm lenses are good but a 35mm is better.

Thanks for your help.
Mike
Photogirl17 said: br " Not all Lenses are Equ... (show quote)


The Best SS'S are created using the Higher # of Blades

DIAPHRAGM BLADES CAN BE FOUND IN NUMBER OF RAYS
3 Rollei QBM lenses 6
5 Some old SLR lenses
wider Jupiter lenses 10
6 Many old SLR lenses, e.g.:
Minolta MD
Contax/Yashica
some new UWA lenses (Samyang 14mm 2.8) 6
7 Many (D)SLR lenses (old an new)
cheaper FE lenses
cheaper Sigma lenses 14
8 Many Canon EF lenses
some Leica lenses 8
9 Pro Nikon lenses (especially tele lenses)
Sigma Art lenses
Pro Sony lenses
Zeiss Batis and Milvus lenses 18
10 Zeiss Loxia and ZM lenses
Modern Voigtlander VM and E-mount lenses
Some Pentax/Tokina lenses 10
11 Some Sony GM lenses
Some Leica lenses 22
15 Older normal to long Jupiter lenses
Some old Leica lenses none

Furthermore you should stop down your lens. Most lenses only show sunstars stopped down a lot (Loxia 21mm 2.8 and Voigtlander 15mm 4.5E III being some of the exceptions here) and sunstars become bigger the more you stop your lens down. You often have to trade a nicer sunstar for a less sharp images because many lenses need to be stopped down to at least f/11 for nice sunstars.

Hope this is Helpful..

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May 27, 2020 16:36:45   #
Marturo Loc: Western North Carolina
 
Photogirl17 wrote:
The Best SS'S are created using the Higher # of Blades

DIAPHRAGM BLADES CAN BE FOUND IN NUMBER OF RAYS
3 Rollei QBM lenses 6
5 Some old SLR lenses
wider Jupiter lenses 10
6 Many old SLR lenses, e.g.:
Minolta MD
Contax/Yashica
some new UWA lenses (Samyang 14mm 2.8) 6
7 Many (D)SLR lenses (old an new)
cheaper FE lenses
cheaper Sigma lenses 14
8 Many Canon EF lenses
some Leica lenses 8
9 Pro Nikon lenses (especially tele lenses)
Sigma Art lenses
Pro Sony lenses
Zeiss Batis and Milvus lenses 18
10 Zeiss Loxia and ZM lenses
Modern Voigtlander VM and E-mount lenses
Some Pentax/Tokina lenses 10
11 Some Sony GM lenses
Some Leica lenses 22
15 Older normal to long Jupiter lenses
Some old Leica lenses none

Furthermore you should stop down your lens. Most lenses only show sunstars stopped down a lot (Loxia 21mm 2.8 and Voigtlander 15mm 4.5E III being some of the exceptions here) and sunstars become bigger the more you stop your lens down. You often have to trade a nicer sunstar for a less sharp images because many lenses need to be stopped down to at least f/11 for nice sunstars.

Hope this is Helpful..
The Best SS'S are created using the Higher # of Bl... (show quote)


Indeed it is thank you, this is a great start.
Now I just have to practice.

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May 27, 2020 16:42:04   #
William Loc: Mississippi
 
so much/researched knowledge
practiced Bill@@@@@@@@@)

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May 27, 2020 16:43:39   #
Marturo Loc: Western North Carolina
 
William wrote:
so much/researched knowledge
practiced Bill@@@@@@@@@)


Well I asked for it, & she answered me with a great answer.

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May 27, 2020 16:45:33   #
William Loc: Mississippi
 
it could be ten miles away
or more and be felt in the
gut or across the ponder

lost a circle where the shine begins
lost a circle where the shine begins...
(Download)

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