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Hand Shake
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Jan 29, 2020 09:50:31   #
Ouranos7 Loc: Prairie of Illinois
 
I shoot a Nikon D500 with a 200-500 or a 300 mm lens. Birds are my main targets. I especially love taking pics of raptors and warblers - and, if possible - while in flight. But, I have hand shake as did my father before me. It seems to be inherited. I walk a couple of miles a day and do some lifting in order to maintain, at 62, some degree of muscle tone so I can get out in the woods and search for birds. But, when I hear folks talk about keeping the focus point on the eye, I must chuckle. For me, esp at 500 mm, it is on the eye, the beak, the crown, the neck, the back, etc. Recently, I bought a carbon monopod and a tilt head. But, perhaps I need to move to a tripod? Anyone else suffer my malady and have found good answers? It is hard to capture raptors flying about while the camera is mounted to a tripod, I think. If you have a tripod/head solution - please let me know what you use. Thanks for any responses. Paul

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Jan 29, 2020 09:57:52   #
Bob Mevis Loc: Plymouth, Indiana
 
I occasionally have shaky hands due to several strokes. I recently bought a carbon fiber tripod. I bought the 3pod brand from Adorama. I purchased it with the pistol grip head. Easy to quickly aim and reposition. I really like it. Reasonably priced also.

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Jan 29, 2020 09:59:54   #
bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA
 
My solution is a Panasonic (mirrorless) camera with a Panasonic 100-400 lens. As part of the M4/3 system, that makes the lens the "full frame equivalent field of view" to 200-800. In the Panasonic system, both the lens and camera have stabilization and work together.

To get hand movement out of the equation, I use a tripod technique I've never seen anyone else do. I use a lightweight tripod with just two legs partially extended. The two feet are stuffed in to the front pockets of my Levis.

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Jan 29, 2020 10:02:45   #
markngolf Loc: Bridgewater, NJ
 
bsprague wrote:
My solution is a Panasonic (mirrorless) camera with a Panasonic 100-400 lens. As part of the M4/3 system, that makes the lens the "full frame equivalent field of view" to 200-800. In the Panasonic system, both the lens and camera have stabilization and work together.

To get hand movement out of the equation, I use a tripod technique I've never seen anyone else do. I use a lightweight tripod with just two legs partially extended. The two feet are stuffed in to the front pockets of my Levis.
My solution is a Panasonic (mirrorless) camera wit... (show quote)


That's a cool "trick"!! I bet there will be many who will adopt your technique!!
Good post.
Mark

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Jan 29, 2020 10:18:17   #
Bob Mevis Loc: Plymouth, Indiana
 
bsprague wrote:
My solution is a Panasonic (mirrorless) camera with a Panasonic 100-400 lens. As part of the M4/3 system, that makes the lens the "full frame equivalent field of view" to 200-800. In the Panasonic system, both the lens and camera have stabilization and work together.

To get hand movement out of the equation, I use a tripod technique I've never seen anyone else do. I use a lightweight tripod with just two legs partially extended. The two feet are stuffed in to the front pockets of my Levis.
My solution is a Panasonic (mirrorless) camera wit... (show quote)


I'd try that but, I wear Rustler jeans.

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Jan 29, 2020 10:25:39   #
gtilford Loc: Woodstock, Ontario, Canada
 
bsprague wrote:
My solution is a Panasonic (mirrorless) camera with a Panasonic 100-400 lens. As part of the M4/3 system, that makes the lens the "full frame equivalent field of view" to 200-800. In the Panasonic system, both the lens and camera have stabilization and work together.

To get hand movement out of the equation, I use a tripod technique I've never seen anyone else do. I use a lightweight tripod with just two legs partially extended. The two feet are stuffed in to the front pockets of my Levis.
My solution is a Panasonic (mirrorless) camera wit... (show quote)


I must admit that is a great solution, I myself have just started using a gimbal head on a mono-pod and it actually works quite well and is much faster to set up then using a tripod.

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Jan 29, 2020 10:33:11   #
Ouranos7 Loc: Prairie of Illinois
 
Would you please share which gimbal head you use?

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Jan 29, 2020 10:42:14   #
SafetySam Loc: Colorado
 
I recently purchased a Wimberley monopod gimble head that Steve Perry recommended, and after using it several times, I found it to be much better for mobility and ease of use than a tripod gimble head . . it balances my 100 to 400 Tamron as though it "floats" and is rock steady when used properly . . . I highly recommend it for your needs . . it solved a lot of my "non-keeper" issues!

https://www.tripodhead.com/products/monopodhead-main.cfm

Good luck!

Sam

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Jan 29, 2020 10:56:52   #
PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago
 
Ouranos7 wrote:
I shoot a Nikon D500 with a 200-500 or a 300 mm lens. Birds are my main targets. I especially love taking pics of raptors and warblers - and, if possible - while in flight. But, I have hand shake as did my father before me. It seems to be inherited. I walk a couple of miles a day and do some lifting in order to maintain, at 62, some degree of muscle tone so I can get out in the woods and search for birds. But, when I hear folks talk about keeping the focus point on the eye, I must chuckle. For me, esp at 500 mm, it is on the eye, the beak, the crown, the neck, the back, etc. Recently, I bought a carbon monopod and a tilt head. But, perhaps I need to move to a tripod? Anyone else suffer my malady and have found good answers? It is hard to capture raptors flying about while the camera is mounted to a tripod, I think. If you have a tripod/head solution - please let me know what you use. Thanks for any responses. Paul
I shoot a Nikon D500 with a 200-500 or a 300 mm le... (show quote)


Consider a Cotton Carrier

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1345430-REG/cotton_carrier_686grey_ccs_g3_camera_harness.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=CjwKCAiA98TxBRBtEiwAVRLqu9juQ30o_O8Z02cTlNMF8G_GVr2ND-V1DDoEvrqcN0EFabaB19i-LxoCfUkQAvD_BwE

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Jan 29, 2020 10:58:28   #
Basil Loc: New Mexico
 
Bob Mevis wrote:
I'd try that but, I wear Rustler jeans.


I tried it...didn't work at all with my Speedos

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Jan 29, 2020 13:59:40   #
bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA
 
Basil wrote:
I tried it...didn't work at all with my Speedos


The elasticity of the speedos might absorb some of the vibration.

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Jan 29, 2020 14:02:22   #
bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA
 
Bob Mevis wrote:
I'd try that but, I wear Rustler jeans.


Manfroto makes "pockets" that go on your belt. One on each side would work if you don't want to stretch out your Rustlers. You would need to wear a belt.

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Jan 29, 2020 17:18:12   #
rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA
 
Ouranos7 wrote:
I shoot a Nikon D500 with a 200-500 or a 300 mm lens. Birds are my main targets. I especially love taking pics of raptors and warblers - and, if possible - while in flight. But, I have hand shake as did my father before me. It seems to be inherited. I walk a couple of miles a day and do some lifting in order to maintain, at 62, some degree of muscle tone so I can get out in the woods and search for birds. But, when I hear folks talk about keeping the focus point on the eye, I must chuckle. For me, esp at 500 mm, it is on the eye, the beak, the crown, the neck, the back, etc. Recently, I bought a carbon monopod and a tilt head. But, perhaps I need to move to a tripod? Anyone else suffer my malady and have found good answers? It is hard to capture raptors flying about while the camera is mounted to a tripod, I think. If you have a tripod/head solution - please let me know what you use. Thanks for any responses. Paul
I shoot a Nikon D500 with a 200-500 or a 300 mm le... (show quote)
Don't worry about what "others" say. Yes, the eye(s) should be in focus, but my experience is that any photo of a warbler is an accomplishment. Get the body in focus, and eye(s) will follow - then work on technique and equipment as you are able.

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Jan 29, 2020 17:30:58   #
Ouranos7 Loc: Prairie of Illinois
 
Thanks to all who replied. I am going to seek more experience with my monopod and I will keep shooting away handheld. Yes, the birds I love to photograph, especially the small colorful ones, tend to be flitty, nervous, and energetic. Most good pics I get I consider serendipitous. Every now and then one will choose to pose, but not very often.

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Jan 29, 2020 22:55:24   #
asaya Loc: Syracuse, NY
 
Just purchased CF Monopod and seriously looking at 100-400 and the Wimberly Monopod would like to do some bird photography. I live in quite a woodsy area and want to try some bird photography

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