peter pat Loc: Miami Beach

Hi everyone, I like reading the posts on ugly hedhehog but rarely post anything on it myself..anyways, I know there is tons of knowledge out there and am seeking some advice...

Recently I did a party wedding shoot on board a yacht. Lighting was challenging due to dark wooden walls, gold and silver metallic ceiling, lots of windows everywhere and flashing strobes and other colored lights..not exactly a studio environment.

Gear used two cameras set on auto iso 200-1600, d700 35-80 AF, and d7100 kit 17-55mm alternating with 50mm 1.8 full and DX on both bodies, flash yongnuo and insignia set at ttl, exposure comp at 0.
Flash gear not the best, kit lens not the best but all I can afford at this time.

Flash behaved erratically, most of the closeup images were acceptable but some required two or more tries...often first exposure was blown out, second exposure somewhat better.

Usually I would prefer to set flash on stands but rocking boat and party crowd is recipe for disaster, therefore flash mounted on camera.

Any ideas?

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

Tough situation. I would have used at least an "L" bracket to move the flash a bit farther from the camera yet still mobile. I also would use a diffuser on the flash such as a white styrofoam cup over the flash. That would cut down on the harshness of the flash. There are many 3rd party diffusers and reflectors on the market. Windows and the ceiling are tough. This photo looks pretty good. I would not worry about the lens quality. Tack sharp lenses are not what you want for weddings. Softer lenses hide facial flaws and makeup goofs. You are correct in checking each photo and then adjusting the exposure after each shot especially in such challenging conditions. Some of the window reflections could have been reduced by using a CPL filter. Otherwise you can spend a lot of time in PP. I would also have kept the F-stop around F2.8 to F5.6 to through background out of focus a bit more. Looks like you did about as good as you can under the conditions you had. These are just suggestions that I have used.

Bill_de Loc: US

Probably need to work on using your flash. Bounce when possible, small umbrella, bracket to raise the flash higher, etc.
You could start saving your pennies for this:

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1511298-REG/nikon_20086_nikkor_z_58mm_f_0_95.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo62bnOiZ5QIVEV8NCh0UvA5nEAQYASABEgK6jvD_BwE

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Scruples Loc: Brooklyn, New York

Actually the bride in the posted photograph is lovely. You did a marvelous job. May I offer some critique?
Keep your flash in your bag for the most part. I'll watch my White Bakance like a hawk. I'll dial my ISO as high as possible. I'll do a lot of group shots mostly people trying to dance. I'll get in as close as possible for portraits. If I use a flash it will be with a bounce reflector on top. I'll try to be at a forty-five degree angle from reflective surfaces. I'll use a star filter or a confetti filter for unique effects. Finally, I do a few photos in Monochrome. These photos tend to be
More forgiving.

Also use a flash bracket. That way when you orient that camera from portrait to landscape position, you don't get the sideways shadow.

As for flashes on stands I read you loud and clear. You could have assistants to hold flashes but that takes a lot of coordinating. You could have mountable flashes but again that can be cumbersome. Don't forget to photograph the bride and groom together by the bow or stern looking at each other with the moon in the background. Also best in Monochrome.

You could have a second camera with Portra Film on board. This one can be forgiving as well.

Lastly, what you have to work with is the best equipment at the time. Better gear just means a thinner wallet. Use what you have and work the heck out of it. You will be surprised that the equipment you have will serve you well.

Happy Shooting

ez22 Loc: The World

I agree with this comment. This looks quite good under the circumstances ! Also, shooting wider open for more softness in the background.

peter pat Loc: Miami Beach

Thanks for the responses, Here are two sample of erratic flash level issue, all settings remained the same. Im wondering if ttl measured off of dark area in first exposure and off of subject on second? both of these images were trashed in any case.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Honestly, I never use an undifused flash aimed directly at the subject except as a low power fill outdoors or if I was shooting as a news journalist - I always bounce or use a diffuser such as a soft box or umbrella. As to the uneven exposure results, I suggest shooting manual shutter speed (at the max sync speed or below), ISO and aperture with ETTL and make any adjustments with the flash compensation setting. Using ETTL with any other auto camera setting can yield some unexpected results. Alternately, consider shooting available light at higher ISO. Either the D700 or D7100 should yield acceptable results with a bit of noise reduction up to ISO 6400 if not higher.

ORpilot Loc: Prineville, Or

In the words of Forest Gump: shit happens. And it will at a Wedding.

DaveO Loc: Northeast CT

I wonder if auto iso is a good idea with a flash...comments?

peter pat Loc: Miami Beach

cool, i will experiment..

peter pat Loc: Miami Beach

oops, my question with the two images should have read I wonder if ttl measured off of dark area in second exposure? (too much flash resulted in blown out shot) Im guessing it looked at black window somehow?

RE. iso I don't like to go above 1600 due to graininess. If im doing B/W then I do enjoy some graininess and then venture into high iso area.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Well neither are high ISO greats, but shooting in raw and using some noise reduction should get you a bit higher if you need the speed.

I will echo the above comment about auto ISO (or other auto functions) combined with ETTL - I have found that it yields very unpredictable results, at least on my bodies. I would be surprised if where you were metering produced the large difference between the two shots, which appears to be multiple stops, but possible I guess. In any event, using full manual exposure will address that issue.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

The bride looks finely exposed. She could have been posed better in my opinion.

Considering the tough conditions under which you had to work you did a great job. A flash diffuser like those made by Gary Fong work very nicely in many cases. Bouncing, I am sure you know this, when it can be used offers very good results.
Glass in the scene is a nightmare. I am sure you are familiar with the inverse square law by which subjects closer to the flash end up overexposed. What I do is to slightly move up the head of the flash under those circumstances.

We could spend lots of time talking about flash and if you ask me I have learned a lot from my mistakes.

ClarkG Loc: Southern Indiana USA

I noticed that this room has a “mirror” ceiling! THAT could be what’s causing the erratic flash?! Tough shooting conditions. Do NOT use a bounce flash in this room. Direct flash with a diffuser would probably be best?

Heather Iles Loc: UK, Somerset

Wow! That is pretty expensive. To justify the cost he would have to be taking photographs professionally and getting a good fee for his time and efforts. Thanks for sharing though what the professionals use and there was I thinking "how did he/she got a photo like that"? Now I know.