Sark17 wrote:
...if you change a RAW files name, like to a DNG, does that limit what you can then do with it?... but I just want to learn :)
You can change the "name" of a file (the portion of it BEFORE the period)... but you can't just change the "file type" (the extension AFTER the period such as "CR3" or "DNG" or "PSD" or "JPG" or ""TIF", etc.).
To change the file type you have to run it through some sort of conversion software. If you were to overwrite it by simply typing in another file type extension, something different from what the file type is, the file would become unreadable. It's still actually the original file type, hasn't changed... but the change of the extension will cause the wrong type of software to try to read it.
To change file type open it in it's existing form... such as CR3. Do whatever work you want to it, then use the software's "save as" command to save it as one particular type of file or another. That will create a new version in the new file type.
I also recommend you shoot RAW + JPEG. Memory cards are cheap. Buy a bunch of extras.
If you are finding Lightroom and Photoshop overwhelming, you might consider getting Photoshop Elements instead. It's much more "user friendly", with a lot more built in assistance for new users. It does many of the same things as LR and PS, but all in one program. Plus it's not a "subscription"... Elements is a one-time purchase. If you shoot videos, too, there's also "Premiere Elements" sold separately or bundled w/Elements.
Lightroom isn't hard to learn. One or two books and maybe a class or two will usually do the trick.
Photoshop is much, much more complex (and powerful!) Really learning to fully use it means about a year's worth of college-level classes and text books!
Your "Pro" friend should have explained why they made that recommendation...
JPEGs are fine, when you get all the settings of the camera correct, lighting is good and... as a result... the images are great. The problem is that if anything is wrong with settings or lighting is poor and images need some adjustments, you can't do very much to JPEGs.
All digital images start out as RAW... every image it makes. When you set the camera to save JPEGs, it's actually doing a RAW conversion in-camera, saving the resulting image, then throwing away a lot of original data the camera has deemed "unnecessary". You wrote that you'd done some RAW + JPEG... compare the files from those side by side. See how much larger the RAW files always are? That's the difference... the original data that's being dumped after the JPEG is made.
Now, if you need to make adjustments to an images later, it's better to have all the data originally captured in the RAW file. It's essentially "unprocessed"... hasn't had noise reduction or other things done to it. With RAW files you get to do those yourself, later in post-processing.
So, in a way JPEGs are good for "instant gratification"... While RAW are better for more "serious and careful" image development, if and when it's needed.
128GB and 256GB memory cards? Those should hold a ton of images! Don't lose one! I use 16GB and 32GB cards (a whole bunch of them... over twenty, in fact), just in case I lose one or one of them fails for some reason (which very, very rarely happens, so long as they're good quality, top name-brand cards like Lexar and Sandisk). My cameras make smaller images than yours... but I get 500 to 1000 images (RAW only) to a card. While I'd hate to lose even 500 images... it would be better than losing 4000 or 5000 images a huge memory card might hold! I don't "put all my eggs in one basket"!
Get a safe, secure memory card storage case (if you don't already have one). I use Pelican and Ruggard hard cases to store and protect my memory cards (they seal up and even float, if necessary). Most of the hard cases for SD memory hold eight cards.
You say you would prefer not to delete images and I agree. Unless it's an accidental shot of my toes or similar (which I will delete), I always wait until I can inspect the images on a larger computer screen, at home. Sometimes one image is perfect, except for a minor thing (such as a person's eyes closes). Parts from another image might be useful to "fix" that. This is one of the great things about digital! But if I'd deleted that 2nd shot, I might not be able to fine tune the good one!