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Astropography gear selection
Aug 19, 2019 16:45:31   #
jmunny Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
I plan on trying to shoot the stars soon. I use Nikon DX and Full frame gear. Trying to decide if I should use the D810 With the 24-70mm 2.8 or 20mm, 1.8 full frame. Or go with the D500 with the 35mm 1.8 or a Tonkina 11-16, 2.8. Maybe something not listed?? Any thoughts are appreciated

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Aug 19, 2019 16:52:10   #
juan_uy Loc: Uruguay
 
Hi, I am very novice and only tried basic astro a couple of times.
From what you list, I would go with D810 with 20mm 1.8.

I use the Tokina that you mention with a D7200.

But probably you will have more experienced feedback in short :)

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Aug 19, 2019 17:52:38   #
PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago
 
jmunny wrote:
I plan on trying to shoot the stars soon. I use Nikon DX and Full frame gear. Trying to decide if I should use the D810 With the 24-70mm 2.8 or 20mm, 1.8 full frame. Or go with the D500 with the 35mm 1.8 or a Tonkina 11-16, 2.8. Maybe something not listed?? Any thoughts are appreciated


I would use the D810 With the 20mm, 1.8 full frame. You should get great results. I use the 20MM 1.8 on a D800.Clouds rolled in.



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Aug 20, 2019 00:32:08   #
JimH123 Loc: Morgan Hill, CA
 
jmunny wrote:
I plan on trying to shoot the stars soon. I use Nikon DX and Full frame gear. Trying to decide if I should use the D810 With the 24-70mm 2.8 or 20mm, 1.8 full frame. Or go with the D500 with the 35mm 1.8 or a Tonkina 11-16, 2.8. Maybe something not listed?? Any thoughts are appreciated


If I were you, I would do some experimenting. Not all lenses are good for astrophotoraphy. Stars are point sources of light and may exhibut various types of distortion such as coma, astigmatism, CA, and others. You may find that you like the results of one lens over another.

Try different values of ISO, and certainly try stopping down a notch or two for comparisons. Distortion might look a lot better if stopped down a bit.

The lower the ISO, the greater the dynamic range will be. The higher the ISI, the more stars you will capture, along with more noise. It is easier to see the colors of the stars at lower ISO values, and at higher ISO values, they tend to saturate and become white.

If there are bright stars in the scene, base your ISO and exposure time to make sure these bright stars really over saturate and bleed into something you don't like.

These first experiments don't involve terrestrial scenes. Your object is to discover what lens and what settings produce stars that you like.

And speaking of stars. They need perfect focus. Even if off just a tiny amount will make stars look terrible. They are point sources of light, and they don't respond like terrestrial objects. Trying to use a compromise focal point for terrestrial objects and for stars will only dissappoint. Stars have to be in focus.

The best WB for stars is sunlight, since most stars are colored like our sun. The sky becomes somewhat brown in this WB.

You may surprise yourself with what lens and what settings you like best.

As for terrestrial objects, most people that do this like to have a separate exposure and to then merge the images.

Some free SW called Sequator can be used to stack a number of star images for better sugnal to noise ratio and to add terrestrial foreground.

Good luck and have fun.

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Aug 20, 2019 02:46:05   #
jmunny Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
Thank you all for your responses. Very helpful.

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Aug 24, 2019 14:24:02   #
SonnyE Loc: Communist California, USA
 
Like most of us, you are beginning with your Earthly camera. A Good choice, but as you progress you may find you want to save it for more Earthly endeavors, and to pursue deeper space gear.
Astronomy cameras have non of the trappings of DSLR's, so they can collect the faint light emissions of outer space.
But as you go you may find something you want to pursue more than others. And towards that end you can tailor your choices.
In the meantime, enjoy as you progress.

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