TreborLow

I also use a very inexpensive multi-meter from Harbor Freight (7 Function Digital Multimeter $6.39 and sometime FREE with coupon). It has both voltage and battery check functions. My rechargeables typically have slightly over 1.3 volts and 3.5 to 3.7 ma (on battery check mode) after they have cooled down from charging. A typical alkaline cell is 1.5 volts and 4.0-4.1 ma. No sure how exact these reading are for such a cheap meter, but they are consistent, so you can check when your batteries are strong, weak or dead and use those numbers for your better assessment of how good your cells are.
In general, I recharge my cells after they have been used for even a moderate session, so I rarely have experienced truly dead cells. Again, those IKEA cells seem to be slightly better than the Amazon generic cells, which are pretty good to start. None have 'worn out' in the last few years, so no comment on long term durability.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

The voltage readings are useful, the current (ma) readings are not.

dick ranez

I used eneloop until I read this. I now have a fistfull of the Ikea batteries and they work great.
https://petapixel.com/2018/02/16/eneloop-pro-20-batteries-ikea-ladda-5-batteries/

SteveFranz Loc: Durham, NC

One thing I would suggest when you are shopping for rechargeable batteries is to check their capacity. A 3000mAh battery should give you 50% more service than a 2000mAh battery.

Harry0 Loc: Gardena, Cal

There is a "time" thing. Nothing is static.
Most of my flashes "from before the turn of the century" don't like 1.2 batteries.
Most of my flashes "from after the turn of the century" don't care. Different reasons, different electronics.
Who uses pre 2000 nicads anymore? The good ones worked at a good voltage plateau, then degraded rapidly. Some were famous for a "memory effect. Discharged too much too many times, needed rejuving.
Who uses pre 2000 carbon acid batteries anymore? Also had a good plateau effect. Also had a little "rebound"- use them for a while, then swap 'em out. The first ones would regain a bit of charge back by the time the seconds started getting slow. Do this too many times, leave the batteries in, and leakage may occur.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Yep, and another thing: I have never had an Eneloop leak, and I have never seen an Alkaline that didn’t eventually. Of course, we all know to take batteries out when a device is not in use, but how many of us have forgotten, whether a remote control or a flash, only to find a corroded mess some time later. i’m done with Alkalines except in an emergency for that reason if nothing else.

TreborLow

Why are you not interested in the milliamp ratings. It is a clear indication of the power left in the battery (under a modest load of the meter). While it may not be an absolute number, if you record the rating when fully charged (and cool) and then when you are getting low on power, you will have an excellent indicator of where your battery is at any other time. The change in voltage is quite dependent on the load and your camera is a much greater load than most meters. It certainly will change as depleted, but in much smaller increments. When I used to have a simpler voltage meter, I tested cell by how bright they illuminated an incandescent flashlight bulb (before LEDs) which depended on the power remaining in the cell.
If I am wrong, please explain.

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

This is an incorrect use of the meter. The meter, when reading current, should be inserted BETWEEN the power source and an external load (which should be sufficient to properly load the battery). First, the high internal resistance of the meter is inadequate to tell you anything (a few milliamperes is not an adequate load), and second, you were lucky not to destroy the meter - if the meter were not a fairly high impedance, you would have done so. An old style VOM would have been destroyed unless the fuse blew. To test properly, pick a resistor of the correct value to simulate the load of the camera and of an appropriate power ratting to dissipate the heat. Then insert the meter in series with the battery and the load resistor. I don’t know what a typical cameara draws, but offhand, I’d guess 50-100 ma.

To get a 100 ma. load at 7.5 volts, you need a 75 ohm resistor rated at more than .75 watts. A 2W resistor would give you adequate margin. For a 50 ma. load, use a 1W 150 ohm load, and so on...

Jimmy T Loc: Virginia

Envelop, never disappoint!