Bill_de Loc: US

Can you point out which ones us rechargeable lovers should stay away from? I never gave that a thought when I switched to rechargeable.

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olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

I have a number of cameras that do just fine with rechargeables (bridge and superzoom), DSLR no, most DSLR and MILC use proprietary LI-ON batteries, so not applicable to that. Flashes/strobes designed for proprietary power, no, they don't use them (AA, AAA, D,C). I have strobe/flashes that do use them, bought recently, modern, but not proprietary power.

Do hate proprietary batteries, what a money making scheme that is, for the vendors. For most of the population, proprietary packs are probably a blessing....no thought, no effort, and they do have very good quality control, and the camera maker (or whoever) doesn't have to worry about battery performance variances, like they would if everybody was doing their own thing.

Do have Lithium rechargeables, some in the form of your common power block with USB plugs, and some in the form of individual battery, some built into packs of the size I require. Chargers - This is important - each battery chemistry type has a specific style of charging, some operate similarly like NIMH and the older NICADS, some (like LI-ON and LI-PO do not) and there can be danger to using the wrong chemistry type charger. I have very nice high quality multi-chemistry chargers for all my different battery types - to power radio control planes/cars/boats & drones, cameras, flashlights, radios, controllers, various electronics and a multitude of devices.

There are any number of lithium batteries in different styles and types available from many sources. They should not be bought and used by anyone who is not familiar with or have proper knowledge of that chemistry. I have been building and using custom packs for years, and buying and using individual cells for these purposes. Have also rebuilt packs for devices like Land Surveyors Theodolite power packs, and others. You can buy them from B&H, although I'd have to look to see what sizes and rating they have.

Power Block/Battery Pack - we (many anyway) have these in our homes, for use when charging phones and such, they are almost all lithium powered, they use single cells grouped together for either a certain voltage range, or a deep well of power, or both.

I'm not being a smartass, I just have years of experience with battery power of all types, heck I was a Fluids/Propulsion and Gasses L Engineer for the Space Shuttle Electric Fuel Cell Power Systems, some very very complicated battery chemistry and electrical systems there!!!

We could spend pages and hours on batteries, but would bore most, not many folks build their own power packs/power systems, and that is probably just as well.

Bill_de Loc: US

I use Ni MH AA in the vertical grips of two Nikon DSLRs. I hardly ever remove the battery from the body.

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nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

mistake. ignore this.

nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

You're not being a smartass. You only expounded lengthily without contradicting anything I said. You have a number of cameras that do fine with rechargeables. Great. I have and have handled a sizable number of cameras that do not operate with rechargeables.
Where's the disagreement?

GENorkus Loc: Washington Twp, Michigan

(I ended up buying two external battery units.)

nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

I like (never love something that can't love you back :-)) rechargeables too! Where they work.

Sorry, I have not kept a list of flashes and cameras that don't like them. Numerous digital pocket cameras. Nikon F4. Other autofocus film cameras. Sunpak flashes, maybe Vivitars.

I have seen manuals for devices that specifically say "Do not use rechargeable batteries". Remember that NiMH, and NiCads before them, only produce 1.2 volts.

I am the photo gear tester and refurbisher at a recycle-reuse business. Lot of different devices. I always try NiMH AAs first in things, fully charged. If the device doesn't turn on, doesn't charge, gives a message that batteries need replacing etc., then I put alkalines in. If the alkalines work beautifully, I guess I know.

If you have rechargeables, just try them in everything. Then you will know too.

PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA

Eneloop is a brand. What is important is the composition, NiCads, NiMH, Lithium-Ion etc.

I believe Lithium batteries last longest but I use NiMH rechargeables, the brand I use is Nuon.

aphelps Loc: Central Ohio

The Ikea batteries perform about as well as any of the high quality NiMh cells. You can count on an honest 2500 mAh inspite of claims of 2700 - 2900 mAh. That includes Eneloops. What is important is low internal resistance (quicker recycle times and true, useful mAh energy (largest number of full power flashes).

Bill_de Loc: US

Thank you!

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BebuLamar

Most newer flashes are designed to handle rechargeables. Older flashes (very old from the 70's) were designed to limit the maximum current by virtual of the high internal resistance of the alkaline batteries. I have smoked some old flash by putting NiCad in them. They worked, recycled very fast and smoked. (they still work after that though)

RichinSeattle

Alkaline batteries are SO 20th century. Nickel-Metal Hydride (NiMH) also come in rechargeable versions, and Lithium-Ion batteries are far superior (life-wise) to the other two.

napabob Loc: Napa CA

I was just going to post this as a new topic, and will, but it's pertinent to this discussion too

Which Rechargeable Battery is the Best?: https://youtu.be/0A1GvQ40j0Q

this guy tests many different products and I trust him, I am disappointed in the eneloop brand I use but am happy to know what to support next

Bill_de Loc: US

Napabob

Interesting, but too small a sampling to be conclusive. The one thing I would really like to see tested is how many times you can charge a battery before having to trash it.

Thanks for posting.

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napabob Loc: Napa CA

he too wants to know and is working on that video