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May 22, 2019 13:36:19   #
Lars Bogart Loc: Camano Isl., Wa., U.S.A.
 
What lens filter would you use if you were to take this shot ??
This was taken w/ my Nikon D 5300, Lens = Sigma 18-250mm.



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May 22, 2019 13:40:19   #
DWU2 Loc: Phoenix Arizona area
 
Lars Bogart wrote:
What lens filter would you use if you were to take this shot ??
This was taken w/ my Nikon D 5300, Lens = Sigma 18-250mm.


Except for a polarizer and ND's, I don't mess with on-camera filters any more. A polarizer might help, but I'd use Dehaze in Lightroom Classic.

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May 22, 2019 14:17:51   #
alx Loc: NJ
 
POLARIZER.

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May 22, 2019 14:19:55   #
bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
Lars Bogart wrote:
What lens filter would you use if you were to take this shot ??
This was taken w/ my Nikon D 5300, Lens = Sigma 18-250mm.


First of all, the white balance is way off for your example. It is way too blue and that is not a filter issue. Notice that even the trees are lacking even a ting of green or cyan. You can probably adjust the white balance for this picture in any editing program. Also, make sure that your camera's white balance is properly adjusted before you take photographs. For sunny day conditions such as this picture was exposed in, the white balance should be in the range of 5,000-5,600K. Each lighting condition has its own color temperature that your camera should be adjusted to in order to compensate for the tint of the "white" light illuminating the scene.

You could use a CPL (Circular Polarizing filter) to give your skys a deep blue appearance, but it will not have the desired effect if your cameras white balance is not correctly set. Also, quality CPL filters are expensive and you should not waste your money on cheap CPLs. There will be a noticeable difference in the results with a cheep Vs. a quality CPL/

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May 22, 2019 14:37:42   #
alx Loc: NJ
 
Blue haze over open water is not a white balance issue. It is the result of the light reflected off of the natural water vapor in a humid situation. Polarizers do not just deepen a blue sky but serve to enhance the green in foliage muted by the blue cast of atmospheric haze, the same haze that causes distant mountains to take on a blue cast to the native eye.

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May 22, 2019 14:54:34   #
Lars Bogart Loc: Camano Isl., Wa., U.S.A.
 
Wow !!
Thank You For Advise.

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May 22, 2019 15:23:04   #
bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
alx wrote:
Blue haze over open water is not a white balance issue. It is the result of the light reflected off of the natural water vapor in a humid situation. Polarizers do not just deepen a blue sky but serve to enhance the green in foliage muted by the blue cast of atmospheric haze, the same haze that causes distant mountains to take on a blue cast to the native eye.


I disagree. Look at the shadow detail on the close in water. The shadows have a blue cast. Those shadows are black in the real world regardless of humidity. If he can try the color balance in an editing program or reduce the blue increase yellow in the color correction controls, it will prove my point.

LARS, If you can repost the photograph so that I can download it, I will process it in Lightroom or Photoshop and show you.

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May 22, 2019 15:25:27   #
MT Shooter Loc: Montana
 
Lars Bogart wrote:
What lens filter would you use if you were to take this shot ??
This was taken w/ my Nikon D 5300, Lens = Sigma 18-250mm.


I actually would add no filter here, I would come back and shoot the scene in much better light.

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May 22, 2019 15:59:14   #
alx Loc: NJ
 
bpulv wrote:
I disagree. Look at the shadow detail on the close in water. The shadows have a blue cast. Those shadows are black in the real world regardless of humidity. If he can try the color balance in an editing program or reduce the blue increase yellow in the color correction controls, it will prove my point.

LARS, If you can repost the photograph so that I can download it, I will process it in Lightroom or Photoshop and show you.

You can "improve" any photo by playing with the colors after the fact. You can "paint" it pixel by pixel if that makes you happy.

The fact is that this photo shows a blue tint caused by reflected light, front to back. It is evident in the increase of the tint/reflected light as the distance increases. It is a reflected light, not white balance, issue. To answer the original question, a polarizer would have greatly reduced the reflected light in the first place and yielded truer colors.

Far better to start out with the best rendition in the first place. It would make post processing, if still desired, even more powerful.

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May 22, 2019 17:20:58   #
bpulv Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
alx wrote:
You can "improve" any photo by playing with the colors after the fact. You can "paint" it pixel by pixel if that makes you happy.

The fact is that this photo shows a blue tint caused by reflected light, front to back. It is evident in the increase of the tint/reflected light as the distance increases. It is a reflected light, not white balance, issue. To answer the original question, a polarizer would have greatly reduced the reflected light in the first place and yielded truer colors.

Far better to start out with the best rendition in the first place. It would make post processing, if still desired, even more powerful.
You can "improve" any photo by playing w... (show quote)


Agreed that it would be far better if the camera was set correctly in the first place (especially white balance) or had a built in algorithm that better reproduces the specific scene. But the fact is that a reshoot might not be possible. Therefore, the question becomes, "What can be done to salvage the pictures he took?"

The answer is to edit the photo. If he shot in RAW (chances are he shot in JEPG) all of the data is there to produce a well balanced photograph. If he shot in JEPG, he will usually have sufficient data to render a good image.

Getting everything perfect before you press the shutter is more important in film and it is an ego thing with some photographers to use digital media in the same way. The fact is that adopting such an attitude as an inflexible credo discards all of the advantages of modern technology. In film, if you make an error at the time you click the shutter, the chances are that it will be an irrecoverable error. On the other hand, a digital photograph is a digital data stream that usually contains everything that is necessary to recover from errors especially since what you see directly from the camera is the product of how a specific algorithm interprets the data. In fact, the data always contains much more than what you first see from the basic algorithm. From a digital perspective, editing a picture using software is simply a matter of altering that basic one fits all algorithm to a new algorithm that uses additional unused portions of the existing data to enhance the final product.

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May 23, 2019 06:09:57   #
Kingman
 
Two stacked gradient ND filters might have helped. Nevertheless, this image requires processing to get the highlights of the cloud/sky, snow, and water closer to the foliage.

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May 23, 2019 06:43:31   #
John N Loc: HP14 3QF Stokenchurch, UK
 
I think a lens hood might be the answer here, not a filter. Mountain Shooter is on the ball. Come back another time.

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May 23, 2019 07:12:12   #
jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY
 
That's a tough lighting situation. If the sun is at around a 90° angle to the camera, a polarizer would help. Otherwise, do as MT Shooter said, and wait for better lighting. Early or late in the day is usually good.

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May 23, 2019 07:20:05   #
Peterfiore Loc: Where DR goes south
 
Lars Bogart wrote:
What lens filter would you use if you were to take this shot ??
This was taken w/ my Nikon D 5300, Lens = Sigma 18-250mm.



This is the kind of light I enjoy...I am an artist and my photography is mainly gathering reference for my painting. Filtering an image makes it look too much like what we expect a photograph to look like. IMO

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May 23, 2019 07:31:07   #
SuperflyTNT Loc: Manassas VA
 
Most filters used on film cameras are moot on digital. As another user said, ND and CPL are really the only thing I need. Just make sure your settings are right.

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