Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
gvarner wrote:
I haven’t tried this before but I’m thinking that, since shutter speed is critical and high ISO creates grain, could you shoot in RAW and purposefully underexpose a few stops to keep your shutter speed up and your
ISO down and then fix exposure in post? I think I’ll try this in some dim light situations and see what happens. How much ISO change equates to an F-stop, or is there a direct relationship? I’m thinking that I could set the shutter speed and aperture in Manual mode and then drop the ISO from metered for my underexposure.
I haven’t tried this before but I’m thinking that,... (
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Your camera is ISO invariant. So, if you are shooting at base ISO (100) on a D7200, you can expect to be able to underexpose up to 5 stops, and it will look no different than if you had shot at ISO 3200.
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikon-d7200/13https://photographylife.com/iso-invariance-explained
gvarner wrote:
I haven’t tried this before but I’m thinking that, since shutter speed is critical and high ISO creates grain, could you shoot in RAW and purposefully underexpose a few stops to keep your shutter speed up and your
ISO down and then fix exposure in post? I think I’ll try this in some dim light situations and see what happens. How much ISO change equates to an F-stop, or is there a direct relationship? I’m thinking that I could set the shutter speed and aperture in Manual mode and then drop the ISO from metered for my underexposure.
I haven’t tried this before but I’m thinking that,... (
show quote)
Yes, but there would be some drawbacks like color depth and noise. Remember, if you underexpose, the noise hides in shadows. So when you bring the exposure back up there WILL be some noise.
That is very interesting. The two charts below seem contradictory, one proves what you said about iso invariance and shows that the shadows won't improve with lower ISO, so you might as well choose the shutter speed you want and let the ISO climb, but on the other hand high ISO eats dynamic range, so i guess you expose to preserve the middle tones.
Bad light and fast action, I'll take the frozen action exposed correctly and work with the noise later.
Coincidently I started a discussion in post processing about using hdr or masking in frozen action situations, but that is a lot of work so it better be a really special situation.
You’re better off going for the higher ISO when you shoot. While your D7200 is mostly ISO invariant, it’s not completely. What that means is there’s not a lot of back-end noise introduced in in camera processing, so you can either introduce the gain on the front end with the higher ISO or you can do it in PP, in which case you’re also amplifying and of that back-end noise. Not a huge difference but it’s there.
I've shot Basketball and Volleyball inside Gyms now going on 9 years. It's almost impossible to shoot with anything but a f2.8 or faster lens. HS gym lighting is probably the worst lighting around besides HS Football fields. Although, newer schools have greatly improved their gym and field lighting. Depending on the camera You know what ISO noise is acceptable for you. I haven't shot jpeg in probably 8 years. I prefer to shoot RAW, I feel like it gives me better control of what my pictures look like when done. You may realize, as I did that lighting in gyms of on fields is not consistent and you will find pictures with different color hues and light intensities. Good luck, It's fun but challenging
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