My D7200 can be wet to sync flash to its highest shutter speed. I do this all the time using a TTL flash outdoors in order to suppress a bright ambient lit background.
The Woodpecker wrote:
Can anyone give me a valid explanation why I cannot use a flash faster than 1/180 second?
And if it is not an "available technology" issue, then why don't I have it?
What camera ? most nikons from D7100 and up can shoot up to1/8000 of a second with compatible Nikon flash but shorter distances as speed climbs upward. It's called high speed flash sync . , the flash fires in a series of bursts between the front and rear curtain as they travel across the focal plane of the sensor..its been available for guite some time with Nikon I even had it on my D300 that over 10 years ago...
The Woodpecker wrote:
Can anyone give me a valid explanation why I cannot use a flash faster than 1/180 second?
And if it is not an "available technology" issue, then why don't I have it?
It is called HSS - High speed synch. Most modern cameras and flash guns support this. At least my Fuji Xt-2 and both my Godex and my Nissen flashs do.
The Woodpecker wrote:
Can anyone give me a valid explanation why I cannot use a flash faster than 1/180 second?
And if it is not an "available technology" issue, then why don't I have it?
What camera. What is it set at in the menu?
DirtFarmer
Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
One thing to remember about high speed sync (HSS) flash. Since it's used at a high shutter speed and since DSLR shutters are focal plane shutters, there is only a small gap open at any one time. That gap moves across the frame to give a full exposure. If the shutter fired once, you would only see a small section of the image (how much will depend on the shutter speed -- fast shutter -> thin section). In HSS the flash fires multiple times so that as the gap moves across the sensor each section gets some light from the flash. Since it's fired multiple times, it can't fire at full power, so HSS will generally give you a reduction in flash power available. If you need power from your flash, it's better to either avoid HSS or raise the ISO to compensate for the loss of flash power.
DirtFarmer wrote:
If you need power from your flash, it's better to either avoid HSS or raise the ISO to compensate for the loss of flash power.
OR use multiple flash units set to HSS
This is the best explanation yet!
ballsafire wrote:
This is the best explanation yet!
Which one?
You didn’t use the “Quote Reply” so we have no idea.
Here again is a post where the OP gives very little information and then disappears. I wonder if this is just a ruse.
It seems that is often the case here...
CO wrote:
Here again is a post where the OP gives very little information and then disappears. I wonder if this is just a ruse.
CO wrote:
Here again is a post where the OP gives very little information and then disappears. I wonder if this is just a ruse.
Could be he has a real job and doesn’t have time to hang out with the likes of us.
DirtFarmer
Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
CO wrote:
Here again is a post where the OP gives very little information and then disappears. I wonder if this is just a ruse.
I suspect the OP has had an answer to the question and, given the wide range of additional information supplied, just decides not to excite the tutors any more and withdraws.
DirtFarmer wrote:
I suspect the OP has had an answer to the question and, given the wide range of additional information supplied, just decides not to excite the tutors any more and withdraws.
I guess you're right. It was a legitimate post but the OP just moved on.
If you are using a Canon camera and a Canon Speedlite, the solution is simple. Turn on High Speed Sync on the Speedlite. According to Syl Arena, photographer and Speedlite guru (in several B&H videos on YouTube), if HSS is left on all of the time, the Speedlite will operate normally at all shutter speeds at or below the camera's sync speed. At a shutter speed above the sync speed it will fire in HSS mode.
Canon 600EX II-RT. HSS is selected on the LCD
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