Rick-in-Tor0nto Loc: Toronto & Ft. Lauderdale

Decades ago, I did some experiments photographing tiny flower parts using a 35mm camera that was so rudimentary it didn't even have a battery. This was using a regular 50 mm lens and extension tubes.

Recently, I was buying a diamond ring from a jeweller and I wanted to do a closeup of the various gems (same size, varying quality). I used extension tubes with a D5200 and the lens that came with the camera and autofocus turned off ("on" seemed to make things worse). The results were so-so in quality—like they were out of focus. I even switched to rapid repeat fire and manually took the camera closer and backward to try to get at least one shot in focus. The real insult was when the jeweller took out his i-phone and, in seconds, got a much better shot than all my elaborate setups.

I've since upgraded to a D7500 but I doubt results will be much better.

Any ideas on what's going on or going wrong?

CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City

The only way to provide detailed analysis and constructive feedback is to see one or a few actual examples. Please take the JPEG files directly from the camera and post as attachments to a <Reply> post and be sure to store all the files. Otherwise, you'll just get guesses of widely varying quality or encouragement to buy more equipment.

I Derfdog

Close-ups with extension tubes will give you a very narrow depth-of-field, so you may need to learn photo-stacking. Also, more light would probably be helpful for auto-focus and give more DOF at a given shutter speed.

Wingpilot Loc: Wasilla. Ak

Just a wild guess here, with limited information, since you don't day what the lens is that came with the camera, but if it has VR, was the VR turned on? Also, what was your shutter speed? When you're shooting macro, your subject is magnified, and every movement is also magnified. If you don't have a fast enough shutter speed it can result in less than satisfactory images. Please post some of your images so we can see, and don't forget to click on the box that says "store original" next to it so we can see the metadata.

RWR Loc: La Mesa, CA

I suggest you look for help here: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-102-1.html
Note that if you follow the ignorant advice to post pictures here in Main Discussion, Admin will likely move them to the appropriate section.

BebuLamar

I would assume that you took the pictures in the store and the lighting is not so bright. You may have to use large aperture so the DOF is almost none. Even with max aperture the shutter speed may not be fast enough for hand holding. I can see why a cell phone picture can be better in that situation.

Harry0 Loc: Gardena, Cal

I agree. Lighting is a very major issue with photography. ;+}
Reading some examples, here and elseware:
Many "good" shots are done with multiple lights.
Studio portraits- 3, 5, sometimes 7 sources for that "natural" look.
I watched a friend do flowers- 2 lights underneath to light up the interior.
I did a few boat interiors- I had a model hold a hot light to fill the shadows.

The real problem is in the wetware.
Your brain "translates" what your eyes see to give you useful information.
Walk into a dim forest, the wetware makes it look brighter, and less green.
Go back out, and your wetware auto adjusts your brain's histogram.
I'm over 6' tall, my wetware makes me see faces when I'm looking at people.
So, you didn't see what you thought you saw. Wetware PP'd it before you really got it.
The camera sees differently than we do, and not always exactly what's there.
I don't want mine to; I shoot mildly "vivid", plus added .5 bright.
YMMV. And will always do. Just be aware.

Keen

Blenheim Orange Loc: Michigan

Hi Rick. I recommend going to the True Macro section here, and then take advice om macro issues from people who have actually produced macro results. Also, it is hard to say what is happening with your images without seeing them.

https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/s-102-1.html

Mike

MT Shooter Loc: Montana

There is a huge difference in viewfinder clarity between the D5200's penta-mirror system and the D7500's much brighter penta-prism system. The penta-prism makes manual focusing so much easier and more accurate. In addition, extension tubes work much better when using prime lenses rather than much slower zooms, especially kit zooms. You were in many ways trying to run an F1 race in a Prius, just never going to be on the winners podium!

Don, the 2nd son Loc: Crowded Florida

Cel phones take exceptional close up photos or pics as many call them. You may already have better ability at your finger tips. Try your own it may make your quest unnecessary.

cactuspic Loc: Dallas, TX

Without seeing the image or the metadata it is difficult to accurately determine. But as a macro shooter, I can safely say that good technique is essential to consistently sharp images. Were you on a tripod? Magnification poses a number of sharpness traps for the unwary, particularly as you approach 1:1.

First, putting focus exactly where you desire is difficult because the depth of field is notoriously thin at 1x, even if stopped down.

Second, to get to 1;1 by extension, you will lose 2 stops of light You are only getting one quarter of the light. No only does that make it dimmer and more difficult to place focus in the right place initially, it keeps the shutter open 4x as long giving you greater chances for camera movement.

Third, at 1x, depth of field is so thin. At that magnification, it may be impossible to keep both the front an back of the gem in focus. Stopping down is no panacea as overall sharpness increases but sharpness at the point of focus decreases due to diffraction. Additionally, for each stop you stop down, you will double the length of time you are handholding the camera.

Fourth, many macro shooters, who are shooting with a dslr , take steps to minimize the movement caused the internal parts of the camera. We use mirror lockup or live view to avoid jittering caused by the mirror slapping open. By using live view, many shooters avoid the camera movement caused by opening the shutter.

Fifth, the lighting makes a difference. If the lighting is too diffuse, the gem may not appear as sharp.

All of these pitfalls should be looked at before we get to even look at whether the optics themselves are up to the job. (An unreversed 50mm instead of a dedicated macro )

I suspect you are dealing with multiple pitfalls. Post a high res copy. Also, the advice about posting in the macro section is good advice.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Extention tubes to not deliver a true macro shot. Macro lenses are designed to give a flat image. Extention tubes deliver a very shallow depth of field, the more tubes you put on, the worse it gets.
If you want good macro shots, buy a macro lens. Or stop down to f1018 and hope for the best.

johnst1001a Loc: West Chester, Ohio

If you are using a 100mm macro lens, You really need 1/250 hand held, f8-f11 for depth of field, and auto ISO assuming light is kind of low. Also spot autofocus or manual focus

Screamin Scott Loc: Marshfield Wi, Baltimore Md, now Dallas Ga

The amount of light has no bearing on DOF and AF is pretty much useless the closer you get to life size as the DOF is so thin that the AF doesn't know what should be in focus.