Swede Loc: Trail, BC Canada

I have an old table saw that I have had for awhile now and a couple years ago the motor went south on me.

The saw has been sitting in my garage since then, I could of used it a couple of times but--.

I have a chance to get a lightly used 1hp, 3450 rpm motor for it for a very good price (take the gent fishing for a couple times on the river- I'm going anyhow)

Would this be big enough for a light to moderate work load?

Thanks in advance

Swede

Pete D

For a 10” yes just not big or fast cuts...

I have old old cast iron craftsman with same.

PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago

I would have the old motor rebuilt.

Timmers Loc: San Antonio Texas.

One Horse Power will work just fine. The secret to getting these old saws working are the pullies and how they are set up for the saw, blade and motor. A friend of mine who did wood work got an old 10" table saw and wanted to cut wood, including red oak (vary hard wood/dense). He took the saw to one of our local old shops Wood Workers of San Antonio. The guy checked the motor (1.2 horse) that was in good shape. He told my buddy it could be done but he needed to up grade the pullies in the table saw. He did the work on the old 120 saw and that saw cut red oak like a dream.

I would ask around and see if you can find a place that has a repair location that knows what they are doing.

I have an old contractors 10" table saw and it works like a dream that I got in a paw shop 10 years ago. Also, while out I picked up a set of carbide tip blades from Big Lots for near to nothing that I use with it.

chippy65 Loc: Cambridge

Sounds good to me...............just make sure you keep your "shutter finger" well clear !

ed3 Loc: Belton, MO

Depends on what you are cutting. I had a 1.5 hp original equipment on mind, and in cutting thick hardwoods it was a struggle. I upgraded to a 3hp 220volt and have never looked back. Would never go back to the smaller motor the difference is night and day.

Papa Joe Loc: Midwest U.S.

Would this be big enough for a light to moderate work load?



Yes, just make sure your blade us 'like-new sharp and don't force-feed it. Should work fine.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

I had the same thing happen to my old Craftsman. Someday I'll bring the motor to the motor shop in town. How does that 1 hp compare to the dead motor?

sbohne

Just so you know, they outfit most school shops with a 1hp motor as a safety issue. The saw will bog and stall in most cases, and not rip off a thumb or finger, and not impale you with a kickback. My SKILL benchtop saw has a 1hp motor, never had a problem cutting any wood regardless of hardness or thickness. As previously mentioned, the blade is the thing. I bought a Forrest blade for my saw. Gives cuts that look like a factory edge.

EdJ0307 Loc: out west someplace

I have a Craftsman 10" radial-arm saw that I have had for umpteen years. It was used when I got it. Shortly after acquiring it the thing died on me. I found a red reset button on top of the motor, pressed it and the saw has worked fine ever since.

smlek Loc: Chicago, IL

I'm a woodworker and have a Jet table saw with what they claim is a 1.5HP. Modern 1HP motor is not the same as old 1HP. If you're getting a modern 1HP motor, you'll be fine cutting plywoods and wood up to about 3/4". Make sure to use thin-kerf blades, 1/8" blades are too thick for this. If the motor can be wired for 220V, it will be much more powerful, assuming you have the wiring at home. My Jet wired for 220V vs. 110 feels like it gains 2x power.

Just Shoot Me Loc: Ithaca, NY

Having been a woodworker/cabinet maker for over 40 years I would ask my self the following:
What is the make and model of the saw?
What is the name plate (H.P.) rating on the original motor?

Replace with like and kind.

Giving advice on a motor replacement without knowing what you are dealing with is like asking for lens suggestions without knowing what camera you are using.
Additionally, you say that you only could have used it a couple of times a year so changing pulleys or upgrading to 220V could put you in a situation that will make your work turn out sub par.
The speed of the blade is predetermined by the manufacturer. Too slow and your cuts are choppy at the edges, too fast and they are burnt on there edges, similar to a router speed and the type of edge you produce for the species of wood.
I have a 3 H.P. stationery table saw. I can cut 2 inch thick maple without an issue. If your machine is a portable or contractors saw then use it the way it was designed. Alterations can cause failures and safety issues.
For a professional photo shoot, if you had a choice would you select a Polaroid or a D850?

sbohne

Depends on how much they were paying me.

aphelps Loc: Central Ohio

The 1 hp is fine but 3450 rpm is slow for a 10 in. blade. You might try a pulley combo that gets closer to 5000 rpm. But keep in mind that your increase in blade rpm will come at loss of some torque. So if a 5 to 3.5 ratio is used for speed the torque will be 3.5 to 5. I hope this helps. As for wiring I would put this on a 20 amp 120v circuit minimum or 30 amp better to provide for high starting inrush currents.

32wade23

Choose a blade with a maximum of 40 teeth - too many teeth will bog down the motor. Also make
sure the pulleys are sized right as to not exceed maximum blade speed.