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Sample photo of my previous focus problem post
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Apr 8, 2019 20:03:43   #
Fergie Loc: North West Illinois
 
I have a Nikon D3100 with a Tamron 18-270 Lens. I use the VC always but I can't get a sharp photo. I only photograph wildlife. I admit I need a lot of help with camera settings but I'm wondering if I can expect the lens to do a good job at 100 yards. I live along a river so that's about as close as I can get.
Thank You for any help!

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Apr 8, 2019 20:06:12   #
PixelStan77 Loc: Vermont/Chicago
 
Fergie wrote:
I have a Nikon D3100 with a Tamron 18-270 Lens. I use the VC always but I can't get a sharp photo. I only photograph wildlife. I admit I need a lot of help with camera settings but I'm wondering if I can expect the lens to do a good job at 100 yards. I live along a river so that's about as close as I can get.
Thank You for any help!


Attach an image that you are having a problem with. Make sure you check store original, add attachment and then send. We then can understand your settings.

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Apr 8, 2019 20:06:37   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
No......you need to get LOTS closer ....

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Apr 8, 2019 21:22:21   #
Fergie Loc: North West Illinois
 
My initial question was if my Nikon D3100 with a Tamron 18-270 would do a good job for a crisp photo at 100 yards. I also need to learn how to understand camera settings.
Thank You!




(Download)

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Apr 8, 2019 21:26:03   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
Fergie wrote:
My initial question was if my Nikon D3100 with a Tamron 18-270 would do a good job for a crisp photo at 100 yards. I also need to learn how to understand camera settings.
Thank You!


Yes you need to learn.
Best way is to make adjustments like a faster shutter speed, make sure you are focused on the subject and lots of practice.
Smile and keep working on it. Your "Film" is free now days so don't skimp on the trying and exploring settings.

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Apr 8, 2019 21:29:27   #
SteveR Loc: Michigan
 
Architect1776 wrote:
Yes you need to learn.
Best way is to make adjustments like a faster shutter speed, make sure you are focused on the subject and lots of practice.
Smile and keep working on it. Your "Film" is free now days so don't skimp on the trying and exploring settings.


Architect, does hyperfocal distance come into play here at all?

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Apr 8, 2019 21:37:57   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
SteveR wrote:
Architect, does hyperfocal distance come into play here at all?


It could I guess.
But I personally would work for focus on the subject by learning the manner in which my camera focused. I use single point but many use the array of active points which is likely better.

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Apr 8, 2019 21:47:20   #
CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City
 
Please replace this image and check the box store original. You also can <edit> your post for about 45-minutes after posting. If too late, then use the <reply> button to any post in this thread and attach & store the file attachment. Storing the file lets us download and review and provide coaching ideas specific to the image and your camera and lens. There was a concern you were too far away made in your prior post. I'd say this is an OK working distance where you have opportunities to improve on the focus and have better images at this distance. Of course, closer is always better ... but in focus is always better no matter the distance.

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Apr 8, 2019 21:47:48   #
Bill_de Loc: US
 
Architect1776 wrote:
It could I guess.
But I personally would work for focus on the subject by learning the manner in which my camera focused. I use single point but many use the array of active points which is likely better.




With long lenses shooting birds in flight we need fast shutter speeds. That leads to large apertures leaving a very shallow depth of field. You do need to focus on the bird, preferably on the eye. If you happen to focus un the wing tip the eye is likely to be out of focus.

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Apr 8, 2019 21:50:39   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
Bill_de wrote:


With long lenses shooting birds in flight we need fast shutter speeds. That leads to large apertures leaving a very shallow depth of field. You do need to focus on the bird, preferably on the eye. If you happen to focus un the wing tip the eye is likely to be out of focus.

---



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Apr 8, 2019 23:01:11   #
repleo Loc: Boston
 
Fergie wrote:
My initial question was if my Nikon D3100 with a Tamron 18-270 would do a good job for a crisp photo at 100 yards. I also need to learn how to understand camera settings.
Thank You!


What are you using for Focus Mode and Focus Area? Are you getting focus confirmation before you click?

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Apr 9, 2019 00:24:47   #
CHG_CANON Loc: the Windy City
 
Thank you for posting the attachment. The image doesn't explain everything, but does give clues on what caused this image. The EXIF data shows you were working in manual focus. Will this lens autofocus on your D3100? If yes, consider the following updates:

(refer to your manual for details on how to make each change to the camera)

1) Change to shutter priority for your bird-in-flight attempts. Try 1/1000 for an initial shutter speed and AUTO-ISO.

2) Engage the camera / lens auto-focus and use only the center focus point / group for birds at this distance.

3) Use AF-C "continuous" focus mode.

4) Begin tracking the bird, trying to keep the bird in the center of the frame and the AF point(s) on the bird. Hold the shutter button half-way down to engage the autofocus and pan with the bird. When the bird is close or a desired distance, press the shutter and capture a burst of images in 1-second / 5ish image "groups".

If this lens won't autofocus on your body, you'll struggle to get better than this example and should consider a different body or different lens.


(Download)

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Apr 9, 2019 00:28:39   #
LarryFB Loc: Depends where our RV is parked
 
Fergie wrote:
My initial question was if my Nikon D3100 with a Tamron 18-270 would do a good job for a crisp photo at 100 yards. I also need to learn how to understand camera settings.
Thank You!


When I shoot birds in flight (BIF) with my D5100 and a 55-300MM kit lens (I hate that term), I generally use spot focusing and spot metering, shutter preferred at at least 1/1000 or faster, and I use the burst mode! Of course I let the ISO stay on auto.

On a sunny day, I can get very good photos that can easily be enlarged to 8X10 or even 11X14 and be very good, especially on a sunny day.

I'm sure some people will argue against my method, but it works for me. I think there are a couple of critical settings: 1. a fast shutter speed, 2. burst mode because you will have a difficult time determining when to activate the shutter, and, even a 6 year old Nikon provides good results at relatively high ISOs.

You might have some issues if you: pixel peep, use extreme enlargements, or you have problems with the "spray and pray technique."

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Apr 9, 2019 02:13:14   #
Katydid Loc: Davis, CA
 
I got a book called Beyond Auto Mode, and also a book written for my specific camera at the time and read them over and over and over again. It does start to make sense at some point. Good luck!

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Apr 9, 2019 02:33:55   #
Pistnbroke Loc: UK
 
You will never get this combination to work as the camera does not have fine focus adjust. AT 270 mm the image on the sensor needs to be exactly in focus. Change for a D7100 or better .D7100 is still available new at e infinity.com. You cannot fight the physics.

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