Are YOUR Whites Pink? ... Reds Orange? ... Greens Violet? ... Try Vista Bleach, and this ... >>>: Now, did you come here lookin' for an answer in the lead post? … Sorry, Gang … haven't...

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

Now, did you come here lookin' for an answer in the lead post? … Sorry, Gang … haven't got one for you … But - maybe some of the folks here who come to comment on this one - can help!!! … Stay Tuned!!

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

Not usually. Do yours?

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

RichardTaylor wrote:

Not usually. Do yours?

Well, that depends on the camera in use, Richard. Some make whites pink. Others - make reds orange, and greens violet. I've noticed the former problem with certain lenses. The latter problem - with one camera, in-particular. Sent that camera back to be checked twice, and each time, they sent it back - with a print-out - supposedly made with that camera - showing it to be up to spec. But, they clearly, did NOT even look at the SD cards I sent them - which quite clearly show the color shift problem. I'm wondering if anyone else here has had such a problem … and, if so - what they chose to do, about it ….

UTMike Loc: South Jordan, UT

Try the xwrite Color Checker. This is a great way to keep your colors true. Your monitor, however, has to be calibrated.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Chris T wrote:

Now, did you come here lookin' for an answer in the lead post? … Sorry, Gang … haven't got one for you … But - maybe some of the folks here who come to comment on this one - can help!!! … Stay Tuned!!

You'll get that if you don't use a color managed workflow. Google what that is and buy yourself a kit that includes an i1 Display Pro to profile your display, and a ColorChecker Passport to create accurate camera profiles, and of course, shoot raw for better outcomes when shifting colors around. But you probably know this already.

And to answer your questions - no - my colors are spot-on.

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

Gene51 wrote:

You'll get that if you don't use a color managed workflow. Google what that is and buy yourself a kit that includes an i1 Display Pro to profile your display, and a ColorChecker Passport to create accurate camera profiles, and of course, shoot raw for better outcomes when shifting colors around. But you probably know this already.

And to answer your questions - no - my colors are spot-on.

That's an "i" "1" Display Pro, is it, Gene?

To be honest with you - it's more visible on the camera's LCD, than it is on the monitors. But, the reds and greens problem - is still visible on the big screens, none-the-less. Not sure how calibrating the PC Display - corrects a problem in the camera ….

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

UTMike wrote:

Try the xwrite Color Checker. This is a great way to keep your colors true. Your monitor, however, has to be calibrated.

Is this software, Mike … or some kind of mask?

UTMike Loc: South Jordan, UT

Chris T wrote:

Is this software, Mike … or some kind of mask?

A company called X-Rite (xrtiephoto.com) sells a Color Checker Passport. This comes with a reference board and software. When you take a baseline photo of the color checker at the start of your session, you use that in your PP work to establish the proper white balance and create presets for desired enhancement. I like it to help keep my snow shots from getting "unreal."

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

UTMike wrote:

A company called X-Rite (xrtiephoto.com) sells a Color Checker Passport. This comes with a reference board and software. When you take a baseline photo of the color checker at the start of your session, you use that in your PP work to establish the proper white balance and create presets for desired enhancement. I like it to help keep my snow shots from getting "unreal."

Do you mean to keep the yellowed snow, from looking that way?

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

Chris T wrote:

That's an "i" "1" Display Pro, is it, Gene?

To be honest with you - it's more visible on the camera's LCD, than it is on the monitors. But, the reds and greens problem - is still visible on the big screens, none-the-less. Not sure how calibrating the PC Display - corrects a problem in the camera ….

I do not evaluate images by looking at the LCD on the back of the camera as the ambient light can make this difficult. I do use the LCD to check the histogram to see how the exposure is looking.
Do you change the white balance to match the scene lighting?
I always shoot RAW (auto white balance) and, if necessary, correct (by the white balance adjustment) any colour problems (possibly due to lighting, especially stage lighting) when post processing.
If you do not post process then ..........................................................

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

RichardTaylor wrote:

I do not evaluate images by looking at the LCD on ... (show quote)

Richard - I use exactly the SAME settings on all THREE of my SLTs - so they each check each other …

But the a58 shoots reds as orange, and thereby green also, with a purplish tint … the a77s are both fine!!!

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Chris T wrote:

That's an "i" "1" Display Pro, is it, Gene?

To be honest with you - it's more visible on the camera's LCD, than it is on the monitors. But, the reds and greens problem - is still visible on the big screens, none-the-less. Not sure how calibrating the PC Display - corrects a problem in the camera ….

You weren't clear in the title or the first post that it was the LCD. But. there are too many variables to respond with any useful information:

Display white balance
Camera white balance
Your vision

just to mention a few . . .

If you re-read my post, it included the i1 Display Pro for computer display profiling and the ColorChecker Passport to do the camera. With both properly profiled, you should be fine. If you print, then you'd need to get i1 Print Profiler, or use the manufacturer's ink and paper and their profiles, or if you use third party fine art paper, use those that are provided by the paper company.

The goal is a tight color workflow with very little left to chance.

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

Gene51 wrote:

You weren't clear in the title or the first post t... (show quote)

Gene - since I have run, already - an exhaustive series - shooting reds with ALL of my Sony SLTs - and compared them, shot by shot - it's become apparent the problem lies in the camera, itself - the a58 - shooting REDS. By the same shift it makes from RED to ORANGE, it also re-colors GREENS, tinting them - slightly purple. No other camera, I own - does this. Comparative shots, of the same REDs - done with both Canons and Nikons - do not have the same shift - it doesn't matter whether they're viewed on LCDs on camera - or big LCDs on my desk. So, I really don't think all these tests and calibrations, will help ….

RichardTaylor Loc: Sydney, Australia

Chris T wrote:

Gene - since I have run, already - an exhaustive s... (show quote)

Would it be possible to post an image, from the a58 camera, with all the exif data to help analyse the problem?

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

RichardTaylor wrote:

Would it be possible to post an image, from the a58 camera, with all the exif data to help analyse the problem?

Sure, Richard … here's an indoor shot. I will try to find an outdoor shot, too - which won't be colored to any extent by indoor lighting variables. Not sure I have red-saturated ones, but I have green-purple ones ….