You said your tripod wasn't very tall -- I hope it is sturdy because the lens is fairly heavy. I would recommend manual focus and the distance will not change enough that if you focus well before the eclipse it will still be in focus. One problem you may encounter is wind. Even a slight breeze will effect that lens because it has a large surface (again a good argument for a sturdy pod). Once you are set, you should take the shot with mirror locked up unless you are using a mirrorless camera. A remote is also advised but in the absence of that, use the timer function on the camera. The moon is very bright so even with an ISO setting of 200 you would want to shoot around 125th of a sec. Since DOF is not a real factor, shoot in the range of 2 to 3 stops more stopped down from wide open. This is usually the sharpest a lens resolves. That lens at the high end is f6.3 so I would go to the f8 - f11 range. If you try to shoot at a higher ISO like 800 to increase shutter speed and lessen the movement, you will increase noise but depending on the camera that could be minimal and worth the trade off. You did not say if you have the version I or version II of that lens. Version I is very good up to 500mm but drops off a little as it approaches the 600mm setting (the reason they came out with VII). If it is version I, don't rack the lens out to the max., if version II you are ok at all focal lengths.

You said your tripod wasn't very tall -- I hope it is sturdy because the lens is fairly heavy. I would recommend manual focus and the distance will not change enough that if you focus well before the eclipse it will still be in focus. One problem you may encounter is wind. Even a slight breeze will effect that lens because it has a large surface (again a good argument for a sturdy pod). Once you are set, you should take the shot with mirror locked up unless you are using a mirrorless camera. A remote is also advised but in the absence of that, use the timer function on the camera. The moon is very bright so even with an ISO setting of 200 you would want to shoot around 125th of a sec. Since DOF is not a real factor, shoot in the range of 2 to 3 stops more stopped down from wide open. This is usually the sharpest a lens resolves. That lens at the high end is f6.3 so I would go to the f8 - f11 range. If you try to shoot at a higher ISO like 800 to increase shutter speed and lessen the movement, you will increase noise but depending on the camera that could be minimal and worth the trade off. You did not say if you have the version I or version II of that lens. Version I is very good up to 500mm but drops off a little as it approaches the 600mm setting (the reason they came out with VII). If it is version I, don't rack the lens out to the max., if version II you are ok at all focal lengths.

Thanks for taking the time to provide the detailed message. I will be using my D810 and the newer version of the Tamron 150-600. My best guess is to use f8 and an ISO of 800. What are your thoughts on f8 with an ISO of less than 800? Since I won't be concerned about the time between shots, I am thinking about using the in-camera noise reduction. Any thoughts or suggestions? I will use my mirror lockup and a cord connected remote. I have a full remote, but it isn't always reliable (probably operator error). I am considering focusing a tad under full rack-out just to be a little safer.

My tripod is an Induro with an older BHD2 head and the Tamron seems well balanced with a stable quick release that came with the rental (or the camera-not sure which) that works with the head. I just cleaned it and re-greased due to sand when it was blown over shooting a hand held in the Vermilion Cliffs. The wind forecast for tonight is light, ~7mph.

I have the 24-70E that I intend to use for some vertorama images, and also perhaps play around with those compositing the eclipse in PP with PS-CC.

Thanks again for your gracious and complete help!

It looks like you have most bases covered. My biggest concern would be the brightness of the moon. A lot of people tend to over expose because, it is night -- right. The moon is usually over exposed because of that. I don't know how much time you will have between moon rise and the eclipse but if you have time, test the brightness with some test shots. Atmospheric conditions can make a stop or more difference in how bright the moon is. Also the moon at the horizon is viewed through much more atmosphere and pollution than when it is higher in the sky. If your location permits, a good second shot would be showing the moon looking like it is half the size of the earth. To do this you need to select a recognizable land feature like a monolith some 10 miles away. Focus on that if the moon is behind it at or near the horizon your moon will look huge.

https://keisan.casio.com/exec/system/1224689365


You been such a big help that I may have to credit you if any of the images turn out! There are stand alone Buttes surrounded by prairie where I'm headed- Pawnee Buttes National Grasslands. Weather forecast still says partly cloudy, but one never knows what that might mean, in addition to fickle weather. I'll be able to carefully check the exposure for the moonrise, which will be just before the sun sets. I've checked Photographer's Ephemeris and Space website. 110 degrees and 55 degrees elevation for total eclipse which will last around an hour. Leaving now - 2.5 hour drive - so I have time to scout a bit and set up. Wish me luck. Have my GPS for the direction. Not too cold, lows around 20.
Check out Keisan for a table that will calculate the path of the moon.

I have no experience using a so-called "super telephoto" lens, so I could really use some help. I rented the Tamron 150-600g in order to shoot the lunar eclipse. I have found a site fairly devoid of light pollution- Pawnee Buttes National Grassland, located on the eastern plains of Colorado. Not great, but the forecast is for partly cloudy, unlike other preferable locations further south, which have mostly cloudy forecasts. Anyway: No risk, no reward.

Okay, on with my question: If I focus on the moon when it is rising using live view magnified and "tape lock" that focus, will the moon remain in sharp focus as it reaches the elevation of ~55 degrees for the total eclipse?

The problem is that I don't have a tall tripod and will have difficulty "scootching" low enough at 55 degrees to see the live view. Thanking everyone in advance for some expert advice.

I have no experience using a so-called "super telephoto" lens, so I could really use some help. I rented the Tamron 150-600g in order to shoot the lunar eclipse. I have found a site fairly devoid of light pollution- Pawnee Buttes National Grassland, located on the eastern plains of Colorado. Not great, but the forecast is for partly cloudy, unlike other preferable locations further south, which have mostly cloudy forecasts. Anyway: No risk, no reward.

Okay, on with my question: If I focus on the moon when it is rising using live view magnified and "tape lock" that focus, will the moon remain in sharp focus as it reaches the elevation of ~55 degrees for the total eclipse?

The problem is that I don't have a tall tripod and will have difficulty "scootching" low enough at 55 degrees to see the live view. Thanking everyone in advance for some expert advice.