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Shooting hummingbirds
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Jan 15, 2019 22:49:16   #
Boris Ekner Loc: From Sweden, living in Guatemala
 
Location is a dark balcony in Guatemala City facing north. Ie no direct sunlight but a very bright sky that does all it can to ruin my pictures... So here is what I do to handle the situation.

To be clear, the flash sync speed of no more than 1/200 of a second is not enough to freeze the motion of the very fast hummingbird. To freeze the motion of a hummingbird - without flash - one needs a shutter speed of more than 1/2000 of a second and a lot of sunlight.

What I do is to set up the camera for an underexposed photo, ~4 stops. Depending on the ambient light the setup is between 1/40 - 1/200 sec, and an aperture between f/2.8 - ~f/18.

Standard/normal flash sync fires when the shutter is fully open. I use rear sync/curtain flash, meaning, as the shutter is about to close the radio controlled flashes fires.

Flash power is set as low as possible, because the lower the power the shorter the flash duration time. See added chart. I have found that several flashes at the same low power is better than one at slightly higher power.

This means that when the shutter opens the sensor doesn’t record much at all. It’s too dark. But as the flash fires into that darkness the very short duration time freezes the movement, like a stroboscopic light would do.

With this setup the shutter speed controls the amount of ambient light, the aperture controls the depth of field, and the flash duration time controls how much movement blur is captured by the camera.

Another benefit of using low flash power is that it recharges faster, and is able to fire several rapid shots in a row. Adding external battery packs of 6-8 AA batteries will improve recharging times.

With all the above said, the difference between a large studio light and a small speed light is not only the cord for the wall vs batteries. Studio lights actually shoot more or less at the same duration time but at different intensity/power. A speed light fires at the same power but at different duration time when the power is changed. This means that a studio light is not as suitable as a speed light is when it comes to freezing very fast motion.

The final result. A bird that looks like it’s floating in the air. .
The final result. A bird that looks like it’s floa...

General flash duration chart. Your flash might differ.
General flash duration chart. Your flash might dif...

Two flashes at 1/32 reflected in the umbrella. One more on the shelf at 1/128 facing the brick wall.
Two flashes at 1/32 reflected in the umbrella. One...

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Jan 15, 2019 23:31:17   #
sterrill Loc: missouri
 
You dont really have to use rear curtain flash. Set your flashes on manual. I use 4 flashes on 1/20 to 1/32 power on manual. I set the camera shutter speed on 1/250 or 1/200 depending on the camera. I try to keep apererature fairly small...f8 to f10. I do like the thought of using the umbrellas. I trigger the flashes with the on camera flash in commander mode. I can set the flash power in the camera. Enjoy the hummingbirds. I miss them in the winter.

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Jan 15, 2019 23:38:40   #
Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV
 
Very nice photo. But I usually like to see a little wing motion. I put my feeders in good natural light and shoot away.

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Jan 16, 2019 08:49:52   #
Boris Ekner Loc: From Sweden, living in Guatemala
 
sterrill wrote:
You dont really have to use rear curtain flash. Set your flashes on manual. I use 4 flashes on 1/20 to 1/32 power on manual. I set the camera shutter speed on 1/250 or 1/200 depending on the camera. I try to keep apererature fairly small...f8 to f10. I do like the thought of using the umbrellas. I trigger the flashes with the on camera flash in commander mode. I can set the flash power in the camera. Enjoy the hummingbirds. I miss them in the winter.


Thank you.
I have the flashes in manual mode, and have had better results with rear curtain flash. Will try normal though.

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Jan 16, 2019 08:52:51   #
Boris Ekner Loc: From Sweden, living in Guatemala
 
Retired CPO wrote:
Very nice photo. But I usually like to see a little wing motion. I put my feeders in good natural light and shoot away.


Agreed. Some wing motion can be beautiful.





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Jan 16, 2019 09:00:14   #
Boris Ekner Loc: From Sweden, living in Guatemala
 
I have two different spieces visiting my dark balcony daily, the Azul Crowned (blue scalp) and the significantly smaller but far more bold White Eared one (black head with a white stripe over the ears.

However, the White Eared one is so damn fast and only visits a few times a day it’s very hard to get a good picture of it in flight. But I’m not giving up...! Four to five radio cintrolled flashes at the lowest power possible might do the trick. Will try within this week to see if my planned set up will turn into good pictures.

-Me a nerd? You bet I am! 😂



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Jan 16, 2019 12:11:44   #
Retired CPO Loc: Travel full time in an RV
 
Boris Ekner wrote:
I have two different spieces visiting my dark balcony daily, the Azul Crowned (blue scalp) and the significantly smaller but far more bold White Eared one (black head with a white stripe over the ears.

However, the White Eared one is so damn fast and only visits a few times a day it’s very hard to get a good picture of it in flight. But I’m not giving up...! Four to five radio cintrolled flashes at the lowest power possible might do the trick. Will try within this week to see if my planned set up will turn into good pictures.

-Me a nerd? You bet I am! 😂
I have two different spieces visiting my dark balc... (show quote)


A nerd with a lot of talent and perseverance. Thanks for the extra photos.

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Jan 16, 2019 12:33:13   #
Boris Ekner Loc: From Sweden, living in Guatemala
 
Retired CPO wrote:
A nerd with a lot of talent and perseverance. Thanks for the extra photos.


Thanks. 😃

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Jan 16, 2019 13:40:56   #
tommystrat Loc: Bigfork, Montana
 
Why do you want to shoot hummingbirds? They aren't hurting anyone, and they deserve to live! LIVE, I say!!! Save the Hummingbirds!!! ...BTW, wonderful images! :-)

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Jan 16, 2019 18:06:36   #
Boris Ekner Loc: From Sweden, living in Guatemala
 
tommystrat wrote:
Why do you want to shoot hummingbirds? They aren't hurting anyone, and they deserve to live! LIVE, I say!!! Save the Hummingbirds!!! ...BTW, wonderful images! :-)


As a former Swedish Air Force S.O.G officer I know that real men shoot hummingbirds, and other animals, with a camera. 😉

Happy to hear you liked the pictures. Thanks.

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Jan 16, 2019 19:56:55   #
Thomas902 Loc: Washington DC
 
"...This means that a studio light is not as suitable as a speed light is when it comes to freezing very fast motion..." Really?


(Download)

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Jan 16, 2019 23:22:55   #
Boris Ekner Loc: From Sweden, living in Guatemala
 
Thomas902 wrote:
"...This means that a studio light is not as suitable as a speed light is when it comes to freezing very fast motion..." Really?


Thank you. I stand corrected. Let me rephrase parts of the last paragraph to:

The affordable studio lights I’ve looked at actually shoot more or less at the same duration time but at different intensity/power. A speed light fires at the same power but at different duration time when the power is changed. This means that a studio light might not as suitable as a speed light is when it comes to freezing very fast motion.

Reply
Jan 17, 2019 07:49:17   #
billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM
 
Boris Ekner wrote:
Location is a dark balcony in Guatemala City facing north. Ie no direct sunlight but a very bright sky that does all it can to ruin my pictures... So here is what I do to handle the situation.

To be clear, the flash sync speed of no more than 1/200 of a second is not enough to freeze the motion of the very fast hummingbird. To freeze the motion of a hummingbird - without flash - one needs a shutter speed of more than 1/2000 of a second and a lot of sunlight.

What I do is to set up the camera for an underexposed photo, ~4 stops. Depending on the ambient light the setup is between 1/40 - 1/200 sec, and an aperture between f/2.8 - ~f/18.

Standard/normal flash sync fires when the shutter is fully open. I use rear sync/curtain flash, meaning, as the shutter is about to close the radio controlled flashes fires.

Flash power is set as low as possible, because the lower the power the shorter the flash duration time. See added chart. I have found that several flashes at the same low power is better than one at slightly higher power.

This means that when the shutter opens the sensor doesn’t record much at all. It’s too dark. But as the flash fires into that darkness the very short duration time freezes the movement, like a stroboscopic light would do.

With this setup the shutter speed controls the amount of ambient light, the aperture controls the depth of field, and the flash duration time controls how much movement blur is captured by the camera.

Another benefit of using low flash power is that it recharges faster, and is able to fire several rapid shots in a row. Adding external battery packs of 6-8 AA batteries will improve recharging times.

With all the above said, the difference between a large studio light and a small speed light is not only the cord for the wall vs batteries. Studio lights actually shoot more or less at the same duration time but at different intensity/power. A speed light fires at the same power but at different duration time when the power is changed. This means that a studio light is not as suitable as a speed light is when it comes to freezing very fast motion.
Location is a dark balcony in Guatemala City facin... (show quote)


I have to disagree a little with this. My Flashpoint strobes have a speed of 1/250 sec. at full power (about the same as the 1/313 of your speedlight) to 1/10,100 sec. depending on power setting used. They also have HSS to 1/8000 sec., TTL capability and second curtain sync. There may be some strobes that fit your statement, but certainly not all. Also, my FlashPoints have their own battery packs and do not require cords.

FlashPoints can be had on sale for 500 to 700, so not much more than a top of the line speedlight.


Bill


(Download)

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Jan 17, 2019 08:09:34   #
billnourse Loc: Bloomfield, NM
 
Thomas902 wrote:
"...This means that a studio light is not as suitable as a speed light is when it comes to freezing very fast motion..." Really?



Wow!! What a shot.

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Jan 17, 2019 08:33:30   #
Boris Ekner Loc: From Sweden, living in Guatemala
 
billnourse wrote:
I have to disagree a little with this. My Flashpoint strobes have a speed of 1/250 sec. at full power (about the same as the 1/313 of your speedlight) to 1/10,100 sec. depending on power setting used. They also have HSS to 1/8000 sec., TTL capability and second curtain sync. There may be some strobes that fit your statement, but certainly not all. Also, my FlashPoints have their own battery packs and do not require cords.

FlashPoints can be had on sale for 500 to 700, so not much more than a top of the line speedlight.


Bill
I have to disagree a little with this. My Flashpo... (show quote)


Thank you. I stand corrected.

FYI: I have tried to edit the last paragraph to:

The affordable studio lights I’ve looked at actually shoot more or less at the same duration time but at different intensity/power. A speed light fires at the same power but at different duration time when the output power is changed. This means that a studio light might not be as suitable as a speed light is when it comes to freezing very fast motion.

However, I cannot find how to edit this last paragraph as the Edit option isn’t appearing.

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