tommystrat Loc: Bigfork, Montana

Well spoken, Dennis - and if and when the "Wall is Stupid" post is created, I'd love to weigh in on that issue!

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

Thanks. I am sure he will find willing participants.

Dennis

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

It is possible to miss shots in extreme lighting situations if the ISO is set all the time. In the Dusseldorf train station, I had set the shutter to 2 seconds and and used exposure compensation to control the exposure. To get to that 2 second exposure, the camera set the ISO to the minimum of 64 and the maximum aperture closure of f22. Total time I had from starting to get the camera out, taking 1 shot, changing to shutter mode, taking four more shots while viewing the articulated screen high over my head, and camera repacked and moving on with the group, was 5 minutes. If the ISO had to be determined, I would have never gotten the shots.

If you have a good camera, the camera itself will try to keep the ISO at its native value unless required by the values of the aperture and shutter. In program mode, most good cameras will change ISO last to some program point, then hold ISO at the acceptable high ISO point while changing the aperture and shutter to another program point, and then increase ISO again once there are no other program options available. This will work for most general photography. But there will be times that recognizing and setting the ISO for the lighting situation will be a must.

Fotoartist Loc: Detroit, Michigan

If you don't mind, how do you get to the attic? Thanks.

Elmerviking

If you shoot M with auto ISO and spotmetering or centerweighted metering the ISO will change if you recompose. The solution is to take a metering and use AE lock, so ISO will stay with the metered value.
I have programmed the Fn button to do this on my Nikon D7100. ( The “normal” AE-L is in my case set for BBF)
I have full control over everything...aperture, shutter speed, where to focus, ISO, exposure.
What can be easier or better?

Grahame Loc: Fiji

Absolutely.

Unless,

a) you are not bothering to take any notice of the information in the viewfinder as you frame.

b) you don't understand the consequences of the information in the viewfinder.

b) you don't have a camera that gives you adequate information in the viewfinder to make informed decisions.

AndyH Loc: Massachusetts and New Hampshire

I use auto ISO only in very specific conditions. In low light and when I have very specific reasons for both shutter speed and f-stop, handheld.

If you’re using a tripod, there is very little reason to use it, at least in my opinion. You will increase noise with very long exposures, even with long exposure noise reduction activated. You will increase it more using extended ISO. If you do need it, I would advise limiting it to something less than the maximum your camera is capable of. On my D7100, I try to stay below 6400 even when shooting handheld in very low light.

The conditions you described sound like a longer shutter speed would be a better solution.

Just my method, others obviously have other ideas.

Andy

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

If starting a new topic, you have a choice of sections, and if you want to just look (though I can’t personally imagine why), go to the bottom of any page and choose all sections and you can pick.

dennis2146 Loc: Eastern Idaho

My point was that many experienced photographers would have taken the train station lighting into consideration, I am guessing ISO 800 since I have never been there, then chose a desired aperture in aperture mode and taken the photo. You choose to take photos using a different setup than I do. If you are happy with your photos then that is what counts. I am happy with mine, always knowing the ISO.

Dennis

Elmerviking

Good point! If you read what I posted earlier I have the ISO set to be viewed in the viewfinder
For obvious reasons.

KTJohnson Loc: Northern Michigan

No, SETTING the camera to it's lowest ISO is the surest way.

skingfong Loc: Sacramento

Assuming your are on a tripod for a 2 second exposure, you don't need auto ISO in aperture priority. Keep ISO at 100. The camera will will increase the shutter speed to let the proper amount of light in while you get the benefits of low ISO. Being on a tripod allows you to use longer exposures at low ISO.

Elmerviking

But what about it when you have set auto minimum Shutter-Speed (when the camera set minimum speed according to focal length).
What do you do then??
I believe this is a default setting, but not sure without checking.

sirlensalot Loc: Arizona

Many wise opinions. Set ISO for night shots - always. 200 max.

foxfirerodandgun Loc: Stony Creek, VA

This all began with my post https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-573147-1.html. I was shooting in Aperture Priority and was not pleased with the results (exposure) when I downloaded the images from the camera. I may have misunderstood what the person was telling me.

(Portion of another Hogger's post) I am afraid that you do not understand exposure. The aperture you selected be it f22, 16, 11 or f8 actually makes no difference except for more or less depth of field. What is important is metering using ANY of those apertures.

(My response) Thank you for your detailed explanation. Yes, I struggle to fully understand the exposure triangle and its interactions. Along with aperture= +/-DOF, I was also thinking narrower aperture=less light / wider aperture=more light thus under/over exposure not realizing that the camera is making shutter speed adjustments to compensate for my aperture adjustments. And, if I understand this correctly, in Shutter mode the camera compensates shutter speed changes with aperture changes.