CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

Thank you! I kept looking at the histogram but could never get the exposure to the right where I wanted it...then I just starting getting more confused and frustrated as I went!! I didn't even think about putting Auto ISO on -- then looking at the what camera picked for ISO -- that might have saved me some frustration..lol I will also check out the book you suggested.

swartfort Loc: Evansville, IN

If you want a really simple guide you can always try this as a starting point:

Turn your camera to "S" Shutter priority (remember, with that lens you want to keep the shutter speed fairly high) Then speed to +/- 1000 and focus on your subject. THAT will let the camera do the basic work for you and you can get a great starting point very fast. Just don't forget to move back to M so that your auto ISO works and you can control your SS and Aperture on your command dials.

I hear your frustration. Been there, done that.... and probably will again. The other day my auto focus would not work and I was so frustrated..... Seems that I had accidentally hit the AF/M switch on my lens. DuhOh'....

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

I kept taking a shot and reviewing my histogram but I just could never get it pegged closer to the right...then got frustrated and confused..lol! I guess I just needed to stop...breath...and try again. So if I would have metered say to the darker trees first...then changed my aperture/and or the iso..it would have been better! I will try that next time.

Thanks and glad you like the darker look!

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

1) > Seeing as I seldom shoot wildlife my self and have no lenses longer than 300mm you may have a point. But presentation may be everything in the end. My flowers and sea shells and landscapes don't move on me, yup!

2) > I did say the other suggestions were good and the OP should keep at it. And I started my reply before the OP said they would PP later.

Since I shoot RAW I've learned to process everything at least thru ACR. Actually I did use ACR on the OP's Duck, only the lettering and re-crop was done with full Ps. Might be why I shot B&W film mostly for 25 years. Printing (my own) is like PP.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

Thanks and I didn't even think about Auto ISO...I will try that next time!

scsdesphotography Loc: Southeastern Michigan

The rule of thumb you used for setting the shutter speed was developed for getting sharp images while hand holding. If your camera is on a tripod, that rule can be ignored. Set your shutter speed to match the motion of your subject, then adjust your aperture and ISO for the best exposure. Photographing birds is challenging, but rewarding when you nail it.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

Thanks!! I definitely need more practice with lighting/exposure that's for sure! I figured yesterday was a good testing/practice day because it was on the darker side...I just didn't do as good as what I wanted....lol. I need to be more precise on where I meter to start with and then get the other settings for ap and iso set.

Your work on the Duck is awesome...I will do some playing in LR and see if I can match what you did!

Thank you again!

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

[quote=swartfort]I see that you have really low ISO on all of these. I find that there seems to be a fear of ISO on these new dslr cameras. I have the same sensor in my D7500 and find that I get great images up to about 1600 ISO and then acceptable images up to about 4500 ISO depending on the subject and need for crop.

So a couple of things:
1) SS twice that of the focal length? I believe that is best stated to be: "at least the focal length". So if you have stationary subject, no vibration control and are hand held, then 600 should get you at the long end of that lens.
2) AE Lock on shutter. You might want to turn this off and instead use auto ISO with the maximum setting at 2000. If you lock the exposure, and your subject moves, the camera will not allow the ISO to change for the changing light conditions. Then you can adjust your shutter speed with your back command dial and your aperture with your front command dial to get the two parts of the exposure triangle where you want them and let the camera sensor do the hard part from there.
3)On your playback set up: Playback display options: check "focus point", "highlights" and "shooting data". Then take a test shot. Pull up the image and use the "up down" control to scroll thru the data. There will be a screen that will show "blinkies" if anything is over exposed. THEN you would use the exposure compensation to help in that situation.

My suspicion is that since you were told incorrectly about the SS relative to focal length, that someone has also made you skittish regarding ISO. If we all had perfect light and a budget for super fast mega telephoto lenses (600mm 2.8???) then everyone would have the luxury of shooting at super low ISO.
Here is a link to some high ISO images that I captured recently: www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-571903-1.htm They have some noise, but most people find them very acceptable. You can hit the link below to my flickr page, then click on each image. If you scroll beneath the image, it will show you basic info on the shot, and if you hit "exif" you will pull up all the info on the shot AND the post processing.

Mostly I shoot birds and BIF: Manual, BBF, single point focus, auto ISO with maximum set at 2000, and -0.3 exposure compensation (because I shoot brighter birds against darker backgrounds) I seldom use a tripod/monopod, but I only have a 300mm lens and it is lightweight. If you have the D500, we share the same sensor, so the exposure results should be very similar.

Let me know if I can be of more help.[/quo

Thank you so much for the explanation and suggestions...your suggestion on changing my preview settings...I never knew that info was there and available! I changed that as I was reading your post, that will help me as well.

I do want to get good at shooting birds especially in flight so all your information is greatly appreciated! I might have miss understand when they were explaining SS and focal length...so thank you for shedding some light on that for me..and yes I did have a fear of high iso...but after looking thru your pictures...I no longer have that fear....plus I am getting better at post and learning how to denoise...so that helps as well.

I turned the AE-L off on my shutter as well and will go out playing again this afternoon! I will more than likely take you up on the offer of more help! lol

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

I guess I was to scared to go with a higher iso...but per everyone's suggestions...I need to go higher.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

See....I miss understand the rule for shutter speed...so when on a tripod I don't need the shutter that high! duh...I should have thought of that!

pesfls Loc: Oregon, USA

Paul S. is correct here. Your body should handle 1600 & probably 3200 well. Give it a whirl, you've got nothing to lose but a few electrons.

wingclui44 Loc: CT USA

Not really,Shooting moving object, especially birds, you still need higher shutter speed to catch their motion, you use VR or not is nothing to do with frozen the motion but camera shake, besides your camera is on the tripod and the VR should be turned off.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

Thanks Pesfls! I will be playing with the Auto ISO and see how high I can push it...your right...nothing to lose.

CindyHouk Loc: Nw MT

I do forget to turn off the VR when I put it on a tripod...I don't use the tripod very much since we are either out on the horses or hiking and I don't mind packing the 600 put I hate carrying the tripod.

SpyderJan Loc: New Smyrna Beach. FL

Auto ISO would be my suggestion also.