E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
There are may ways and many reasons to convert a color image to black and white. How it is done as to method and results depend on what you need to accomplish.
If you want a traditional or accurate gray scale representation of the colors and tones you are going for a PANCHROMATIC interpretation. If for some reason you want to increase the contrast more significantly as in a dramatic portrait, you may go for a more ORTHOCHROMATIC interpretation which would exaggerate the skin texture and darke the red in lips etc.
In digital post processing it is easier to acheive a wide variety of monochromatic interpenetrations from images originally produced in color. In color negative work, special panchromatic papers were required and theses material were not particularly easy to use. Transparencies required the production of inter-negatives which coud also be quite painstaking.
Personally, I prefer to determine, in advance, if I an going to shoot in color or black and white. I have no prejudice for one or the other- some subjects perhaps are more suited for one or the other. On certain assignments, it is not practical to shoot both separately if both are going to be required so the obvious choice is to shoot in color and convert. If I decide or are required to work in black and white I like to pre-visualize in that medium so I set the camer for monochrome or view the scene or subject through a dark green filter to get a better idea of the tonal scale and relationships. I lie to use color filters, in certain cases to separate tones and produce contrasts where certain differet colors may register in the same tone of gray id left unfiltered.
In portraiture, shooting with a ligh yellow or ligh orange filter will create a kinda "porcelain" like skin tone. Shooting with a green filter will dramatize skin textures and mimic the effect of orthochromatic film. Yellow, orange and red filter darken skyscapes.
There are may ways and many reasons to convert a c... (
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My apology I neglected to post the b&w version I created. I got stuck on converting legacy images.
bpulv
Loc: Buena Park, CA
waynetgreen wrote:
Greetings,
I occasionally convert color to BW using Photoshop remove color or desaturate. Results are acceptable but just wondering if there is a distinct advantage to using the monochrome setting in the camera vs post process? Better grey scale maybe? I know I could do some side by side comparisons, but I truly enjoy the comments and expertise of the collective group.
Thanks
Don't use monochrome settings in the camera. You should always shoot in color and edit the picture in color before conversion to black and white. Once the picture looks right in color, the very last step in Photoshop should be to make a layer to convert the picture to black and white. That will both provide you with the best black and white full tone print and allow you to switch between color and black and white if necessary at a later date. If you print your pictures (B&W or color), be sure to limit the black and white points on the histogram in Photoshop to 8 and 244.
WF2B wrote:
Tom, I am having a little trouble trying to understand what your three photos have to do with B&W.
My apology I am working on a B&W version of my studies and conversion work from legacy images.
Did not include. It is conversions I am experimenting with. Thanks for your patience.
waynetgreen wrote:
Greetings,
I occasionally convert color to BW using Photoshop remove color or desaturate. Results are acceptable but just wondering if there is a distinct advantage to using the monochrome setting in the camera vs post process? Better grey scale maybe? I know I could do some side by side comparisons, but I truly enjoy the comments and expertise of the collective group.
Thanks
So the conclusion seems to be that the OP's issue involving any
advantage to using the monochrome setting in the camera vs post process has a flaw. They are not mutually exclusive if shooting RAW. You can use the setting and convert in PP using some of the techniques discussed here.
For years I followed the conventional wisdom shooting raw in color and converting to B&W using software and applying filters (red, yellow and green) to my converted color photos. Now, I still shoot raw but I shoot in Acros (B&W) which is a Fuji film simulation on my XT2. The reason that I shoot in B&W is that I can see texture and tonal gradations better in B&W then when I shot color and converted. I believe that there are two schools of thought and experience when shooting or converting to B&W. For me, my B&W shots are better when I shoot in black and white then they were when I converted color photos.
Linda From Maine wrote:
Shoot in color, convert in a robust editor
I agree with converting in post, BUT, if you know you are going to convert, and if you have a EVF, change your camera to B&W mode. This will let you see the light and shot in B&W in the VF. The raw file will be in color and you can convert it on your own or with Lightroom presets specific to your camera.
Of course if you know you are going for B&W, shoot Tri-X or HP5.
Tom Daniels wrote:
My apology I am working on a B&W version of my studies and conversion work from legacy images.
Did not include. It is conversions I am experimenting with. Thanks for your patience.
I like that photo. Wish you'd posted a high-res version.
"B&W" means B&W film or monocrhome sensor. Anything else is decolorized/d
You know, like Ted Turner's version of
Citizen Kane is colorzed.
Bipod wrote:
I like that photo. Wish you'd posted a high-res version.
"B&W" means B&W film or monocrhome sensor. Anything else is decolorized/d
You know, like Ted Turner's version of Citizen Kane is colorzed.
Its closer to technicolor where 3 black & white film strips are exposed to monochromatic light which is produced by being passed through three colored filters. Color is really an illusion and with digital a series of measurements and math.
Linda From Maine wrote:
Shoot in color, convert in a robust editor (I use Nik Silver Efex). Much more control.
You decide, not the camera
With these photos, I could make whites whiter, blacks blacker, or change tonal contrast entirely, such as by applying a green filter (in my editor) on green grass to make it lighter. Red filters make blue skies darker. Using layers and layer masks allows you to make selective edits: dodge and burn to move the eye around the scene, darken the edges...options are limitless.
Shoot in color, convert in a robust editor (I use ... (
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Love these shots. The second one is truly inspired. ?Alan
Compared to BW, shooting in color gives you more choices afterwards. Better still if you know how to work with RAW. When converting colored images in Photoshop to BW, do not use desaturate. Instead, go to Image/Adjustment/Black & White (Alt+Shift+Ctrl+B in Windows PC). With the available sliders, you can control how each color will render in your final image. Experiment :-) , Just remember to save it as a different file first before doing anything so you do not lose your original file. Below is a sample of a colored image converted into BW in Photoshop.
[quote=Wallen]If you want to shoot black & white, it would be better to set your camera to black & white instead of desaturating the color in post.
Wallen, restrain your enthusiasm. This discussion is 4 YEARS OLD.
Robertl594
Loc: Bloomfield Hills, Michigan and Nantucket
My two cents worth:
Shoot color then convert.
I used to use the recipe below. Really like the results. I still think it’s relevant, but Nik Silver Effects Pro is faster.
1. Open the image, assuming that its RAW, make your Lightroom or ACR adjustments;
2. Once the raw image is open in PS, select Lab Color under Mode;
3. Once open in Lab Mode, under your channels pallet, highlight the Lightness Channel;
4. Go back to Mode menu and select Gray scale, PS will ask you to discard other channels, click “Yes”;
5. Now hold your CTRL key and while holding your CTRL key, click the gray channel that should be highlighted in your channels pallet. You should now have the dancing ants at this time;
6. Now select Inverse in your Selection menu;
7. Convert back to RGB Mode under the Mode menu;
8. After converting to RGB, go to your layers pallet and at the bottom, click on create new adjustment layer (the B&W Circle);
9. Choose solid color and pick the color that you want if you want to add any color, if not, choose a neutral gray;
10. On the upper layers pallet, choose multiply and the adjust your opacity and curves;
11. Do your final processing and print.
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