pkr

Can anyone recommend a good inexpensive stable tripod for my Sony RX10IV?

pendennis

Inexpensive and stable aren't used together when discussing tripods.

First, could you provide a budgetary amount for the tripod? You should also advise whether a good used tripod is in the mix. A good used tripod can be far more effective than a cheap new one.

Most people don't spend enough on tripods, and they always live to regret it. You have a camera which would cost around $1500-1600 to replace. Don't skimp on the tripod.

pkr

Lightweight and under $100. Amazon has many tripods that look sturdy for this amount, but it's hard to judge their quality or stability. I need a basic tripod for use in botanical gardens, wetlands, and other non-rigorous conditions.

47greyfox Loc: on the edge of the Colorado front range

With the RX14iv and that reach of 600mm equiv, I’d be concerned more about stability more than weight bearing. I owned a RX10iii for a while. My befree with its thin legs and head wasn’t a happy experience. Then I spent a few hundred bucks for a Sirui T-2205X with Acratech ballhead. Not inexpensive but well worth the investment.

Chris Hayes

Agree with the above. Cheap and stable are pulling in opposite directions on tripods. I bought a used Gitzo, and while it does not fold up too small, it's extremely sturdy. A tripod has one job, hold the weight of your equipment in a very stable position. Anything less is a waste of time. You mention the camera, but not the lens. The camera almost doesn't matter, it's the lens that adds the weight and instability. Tripods are a seldom used piece of equipment, so they are often up for sale used for that reason. I am extremely happy with the Gitzo, i paid $450 for it. That would have brought many choices in new ones, but sturdy is sturdy. Don't buy a cheap one you will regret it.

Chris

Photocraig

Your usage precludes the best possible compromise for this camera which is a small table top type tripod like the Gorilla, etc. The Amazon Basic has been reviewed by several You Tubers, including the appealing and knowledgeable SnapChick. With the Bridge Cameras, beware, as already noted, that when you go into super zoom ranges, stability is key. Think of long telephoto focal lengths like long levers. The longer the lever, the smallest movement at the near end (camera) translates into very large relative movement at the Subject distance. The rule also plays out in close up magnification, so using the closest focus at maximum zoom on a flower or tree detail, that you shoot. Any vibration or camera movement will create the blurred images you are seeking to avoid.

The budget friendliest solution with ANY tripod, is to buy a short aluminum one, keeping the leg extensions to a minimum and avoid center column extension entirely. And, don't go cheap on the tripod head. I'm not familiar enough with your camera to say, but the articulating screen of the newer cameras allow us to place them low on smaller tripods and use Live View (or whatever they call it) and shoot with the screen so you can see it comfortably. Also, a remote trigger or Smart Phone app is a godsend for this kind of work. At the very least use the 2 second delay even with NO mirror slap to allow the camera to settle after the shutter button press.
C

pendennis

Another tip for using a tripod, is to buy one which requires little, to no, column extension. Once the column is extended more than about 25%, you start to get instability. While crank-up/down columns are nice, they're not always necessary.

For around $300, you can get a Manfrotto aluminum 055 kit. B&H has a slew of tripods that are everything from inexpensive, to selling off your eldest, in price.
Here's a link:
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1441685-REG/manfrotto_mt055xpro3_aluminum_tripod_and.html

pkr

Thank you for all the good advice

Bipod

Inexpensive stable and light-weight don't go together.

I bouught a surveyor's tripod (made of wood, steel and brass) at a garage sale.
World's most stable tripod -- $5. It weighs 35 lbs.

Whatever your camera's requirements for a stable tripod, I assure you that a
laser transit's requirements are greater.

Unfortnately, when trying to damp vibrations, inertia is your friend. Leaves
flutter in the wind, anvils don't.

If you shoot mainly from your car (or station wagon roof!), then light-
weight is not a requirement. Or if you are willing to carry a heavy
tripod.

I also have a professional aluminum video camera tripod, when I need
something smaller but still stable.

And yes, I do have a carbon-fiber travel tripod. But on a windy day
it's useless.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

Try a good used alloy tripod. They’re cheap. A hundred bucks and less!
SS

pendennis

As the original poster hadn't mentioned used or new, my in-going assumption was new.

I've picked up a number of extremely sturdy, used tripods, and several with heads. Among them are: Bogen 3251, Bogen 3035, Bogen 3033, Bogen 3046, Manfrotto 475B, Gitzo 1320, and a Bogen 3021. I own new Manfrottos 055 Aluminum and carbon fiber, and like you, the carbon fiber is nearly worthless when the wind really gets up. I do get some additional weight when I hang my gear bag from the center post, though.

If I don't have to hike too far from the car, I use a Bogen boom weight in windy conditions. I also shoot a lot of medium and large format film, so heavy and stable are really necessary with slower speed films.

queencitysanta Loc: Charlotte, North Carolina

I prefer one without center section. MT Shooter (Carter's
Camera Cottage sold me one the will hold the largest lens and will reach up to 7 feet tall. Check out his shop.

Take his word to the bank.

DAN Phillips Loc: Graysville, GA

Look at Velbon, I still use one from the '70's.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Those two things do not play well together. Inexpensive and Durable.
I would suggest buying used and in that case you can get close.

Largobob

There are several considerations when choosing a sturdy tripod:

Material: carbon fiber is lightweight, strong and weather resistant.
Segments: the fewer the leg segments (generally) the more stable....but may not have the desired height and may not collapse as short for storage
Segment Locking: generally either screw to tighten or snap to tighten. I find each/either work well on a good/premium tripod.
Height: max. should extend to just above your standing height (without center column), and compact down small enough for low shots and to carry easily
Leg angle: some tripods will allow a larger opening angle of the legs, to accommodate low-level shots
Center Column: generally, using a tripod with center column will add instability. However, some center columns can be inverted, allowing the camera to be mounted hanging below the tripod for low level shots.
Head: the head may be included or a separate purchase. Medium to large ball head works well in most situations. Use a sturdy gimbal mount for large lenses or fast action (like BIF). I find pan/tilt heads less desirable
Camera/lens Mount: go with a standard quick-release type mounting system. Arca Swiss, Manfroto, and others make them

A tripod is an investment that should last a lifetime. If you buy cheap, you will be wasting your money (IMHO).