Very simply, yes. ETTR/EBTR works 24/7.
However, to clarify something in your statement. Just watching the blinkies during your exposure is probably cheating yourself out of an even greater dynamic range. The blinkies are indicating the range of the in-camera jpg. Your RAW file can probably capture even more dynamic range than you are using.
--Bob
gunflint wrote:
For my daytime exposures I have been attempting to always expose to the right and watching the histogram as to not clip any whites or blacks. It does seem to help with the dynamic range.
My question is (and I will do some tests myself) does this "rule" apply for night photography such as city lights after dark? Any tips from those with experience at this is appreciated!
I’ve said this before and completely agree with rmalarz. Compare what you think is an overexposed raw picture, overexposed (you think) because the blinkies are flashing, with the same raw file in Photoshop camera raw. You’ll find it’s nowhere near overexposed. These camera warnings are just that, you need to experiment to find out what the actual limit is. When I first tried this with a Canon 7D and that was some time ago, there was a further one and 2/3rd stops before the histogram went over the top in Camera raw.
rmalarz wrote:
Very simply, yes. ETTR/EBTR works 24/7.
However, to clarify something in your statement. Just watching the blinkies during your exposure is probably cheating yourself out of an even greater dynamic range. The blinkies are indicating the range of the in-camera jpg. Your RAW file can probably capture even more dynamic range than you are using.
--Bob
The raw file can record a little more dynamic range on the high end but not much more.
The raw file starts to get blown out about 1 stop beyond where the blinkies tell you that the JPEG is getting blown out.
It's best to heck this using RawDigger on your own camera to be sure. It has much larger and more precise raw histograms that you will find in any raw editor.
See
Nikon's Blinkies and ETTR and
Nikon's Blinkies and ETTR - Followup.
Delderby wrote:
Exposing to the right means pushing the histogram to the right. I use the histogram in my M43 displays to help when I feel the need to compensate exposure - whether shooting JPG or RAW or JPG+RAW. If shooting JPG I still have the choice of ETTR or ETTL - in fact it can be more important - simply because recovery of lost detail either end may not be possible. Shadows I can live with - blown highlights I cannot - ETTR will help me decide how far I dare push it. So get off your high horse.
Exposing to the right means pushing the histogram ... (
show quote)
What horse? I don't have a horse.
RAW, at least on my camera has about 2-1/2 stops perhaps 3 (depending on ISO used) past where the blinkes start. This was determined by a lab approach to determine the Zonal placement of bright values in a scene. As stated numerous times, I don't take photographs with a "new" camera without first determining its operating parameters. Most of the advice given here on ETTR/EBTR leads one to simply twiddle some dials and guesstimate the amount of additional exposure to use. A more laboratory and scientific method of approach will surely provide the actual amount of additional exposure one can use to control the tonal range of their images.
--Bob
selmslie wrote:
The raw file can record a little more dynamic range on the high end but not much more.
The raw file starts to get blown out about 1 stop beyond where the blinkies tell you that the JPEG is getting blown out.
It's best to heck this using RawDigger on your own camera to be sure. It has much larger and more precise raw histograms that you will find in any raw editor.
See
Nikon's Blinkies and ETTR and
Nikon's Blinkies and ETTR - Followup.
The raw file can record a little more dynamic rang... (
show quote)
Oh, boy... My bad. Just saw it was corrected on a previous post.
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
rmalarz wrote:
Very simply, yes. ETTR/EBTR works 24/7.
However, to clarify something in your statement. Just watching the blinkies during your exposure is probably cheating yourself out of an even greater dynamic range. The blinkies are indicating the range of the in-camera jpg. Your RAW file can probably capture even more dynamic range than you are using.
--Bob
And 100% of that 24/7, too!
rmalarz wrote:
RAW, at least on my camera has about 2-1/2 stops perhaps 3 (depending on ISO used) past where the blinkes start. This was determined by a lab approach to determine the Zonal placement of bright values in a scene. ...
That's incredible! Literally.
The blinkies serve two purposes. They allow a JPEG user to avoid blowing out the highlights and they give anyone who is shooting raw an early warning.
You can't use the blinkies like everyone else because you are using UniWB. Nobody else here uses UniWB.
Your observations about blinkies are irrelevant until you look at the blinkies using Daylight white balance. You also need to spend some time with RawDigger.
JimKing
Loc: Salisbury, Maryland USA
Ched49 wrote:
It could help a little in low light, in daylight, I always shoot 2 or 3 stops in the minus side, colors come out a little richer.
This is one I've never seen before. I know some expose at minus 1/3 of a stop but 2 to 3 seems very low. However, exposing for the sky might take you this far.
Kozan
Loc: Trenton Tennessee
AndyH wrote:
That’s true, and a great reason to shoot RAW, but if you’re going to lose details, it seems the highlights would be more important to preserve. I’m looking forward to hearing from one of our very high tech people.
Andy
Not necessarily true, Andy. Preserving detail in highlights might not be important at all. Consider a night scene where you have a scene that has dark streets and alleys, but also is showing street lights. Over exposure of the street lights could certainly be tolerated, but bringing up detail in the dark areas would be much more valuable.
Stan
AndyH
Loc: Massachusetts and New Hampshire
Kozan wrote:
Not necessarily true, Andy. Preserving detail in highlights might not be important at all. Consider a night scene where you have a scene that has dark streets and alleys, but also is showing street lights. Over exposure of the street lights could certainly be tolerated, but bringing up detail in the dark areas would be much more valuable.
Stan
Good point, Stan. But for me, that's the exception, not the rule. If you shoot in RAW you can always dial up the specular highlights you want to preserve. Bringing up shadows does add noise, either in camera or in post processing, but it depends on the effect you're looking for. Like most other things in life, the best answer is usually "It depends..."
Andy
Gene51 wrote:
And 100% of that 24/7, too!
Gene, good reading. After years of shooting many different species of birds, some all white and others a mix, ospreys and eagles, it sure helps to know the limits of your camera as to not blow out the highlights. In PP with selective noise reduction you can preserve the highlights with no loss in detail while cleaning up in the shadow areas. If the highlights are blown, it's all over and I know of no program to recover lost highlights.
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