newtoyou Loc: Eastport

After sitting in a Promenent place and a few days of fondly gazing at the lens I put it on the T21 I use. I had read the instructions. I started shooting film. Manual no problem. Next two weeks looking for "the light" to make it work. First shot is camera and flash. Took the diffusers off for more light. Next are at honey on Ricinus in a pot, and yellowjackets that got carried away. A fly and my finger. All at a bit over two x and handheld
I see much to be done. Critique welcome.
Bill

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Crawling out

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lesdmd Loc: Middleton Wi via N.Y.C. & Cleveland

You are probably well aware that the images are far from sharp. Digital imaging would allow stacking to improve depth of field.

tinusbum Loc: east texas

focus is not good,i would be shooting f/9 at 2:1 i started shooting my mpe-65 with a t3i but was never really satisfied with my shots until i got the t6i, i think the more megapixels really helped

tinusbum Loc: east texas

i forgot to say after 2 weeks i was ready sell my mpe-65. now,i'm sure glad i didnt.so hang in there

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

The thought had crisscrossed my mind. Thanks for the push.. As was said, far cry from sharp. I need to try to get some of the shake out. Next trial with pinned insects. Tripods, three axis focus rails, monitor. See what lens will do without me holding it back. And again, critique welcome.
Bill

napabob Loc: Napa CA

I started on objects that wouldn't move, and weren't in awkward positions, like printing, and at low mag, I shoot moving in on the target and when moving out, I think one of the biggest hurdles is KEEP BREATHING............still find myself holding my breath, then realized how much more important it was to line up focus plane with the subject because of the extremely shallow DOF, when I got frustrated I'd go back to the 100mm, practice practice and more practice............get frustrated then practice some more, find and use any supportive surface available to lean against, prop against, use off hand to hold the subject while making contact with lens too, I also added a longer foot plate on the lens which my dual flash holder slides back and forth on while also providing another brace point for sitting on hand/fingers/wrist/arm when shooting on table etc...........then...........did I mention practice?

I also had a problem on stray light getting into the lens so bought the lens hood (expensive) which helped

Mark Sturtevant Loc: Grand Blanc, MI

I have shot well over 1:1 many times with my cobbled-together-from-various-parts lens. It is tough! Just finding the subject is a challenge. I rented the mpe-65 this summer to try out. Easier, since one can start at 1:1, but still very hard to use free-hand. I learned to limit myself to subjects that were right next to a solid support to rest the lens against.
Have the rig rock steady. Sure a tripod will do that, but not everything waits for you to set up the tripod.

Is your flash really a flash? It looks like one of those LED set ups that provide steady light, and if it has a flash mode I am not sure if the pulse of light is really that fast to help remove camera shake.

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

True flash. Five light levels. Under 25$ To my door. Specs say flash GN21, 5cm-2 m effective distance at 5500 k. 1/100 sec. I shot at 1/50 sec, full power flash. Napabob uses a flash rig I think will work better. I can duplicate his. Not to denigrate any help, but I expect to try suggestions and my own line. The experimentation failures can be a learning experience. Tinusbum also has a point, too. I said before, I have years of collecting cameras, lenses, doublers, tubes, coupling rings, you name it. Both film and digital. Now to learn how to use it. Thanks to the help I get here I will'get it' the quicker.
Bill

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

I do not do any post workup. I learned on film. Have used a camera/ microscope with a stacking program.
Mind blowing. Would love to get back into that.
Still trying to get to a point where PP will help make my work better.
That lens has potential, up to me to learn the lens.
My feeling is that it will be a 'studio' lens. Tabletop. Better light control, less shake.
Thanks for your comment.
Bill

Blurryeyed Loc: NC Mountains.

Flash is much better than a continuous lighting source, flash does a much better job of freezing motion than shutter speed does. I shoot up to 4:1 at shutter speeds as low as 1/160th. As far as removing the diffuser I think that you should reconsider, soft light is imperative for great macro. Like many here I use a home made diffuser using paper towel or tissue, easy and cheap. I have my flash set up on an articulating arm so that I can position it close to the end of my lens allowing me to set the flash for fractional power which translates in to a shorter flash period and consequently crisper images as the stop motion effect of flash improves with the shorter period of flash.

newtoyou Loc: Eastport

Trying your advice. Thank you, I am not used to using a flash. This has made it's function clearer.
Bill