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Panorama
Panorama 1
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Sep 27, 2018 11:06:25   #
abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois
 
This is the first of two panoramas being posted. Stitched from sixteen vertical files in LR. As you can see, I had a lot of trouble with the sky. It is uneven, off-color, and has a few small blotches I could not remove. I also do not like the curvature of the foreground but I guess this is inherent with this kind of shot. Although the picture lacks any specific item of interest, it is a reminder of my visit with my family to this location to plant saplings on this hillside being forested. I also wanted to capture the breadth of the vista.


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Sep 27, 2018 12:49:36   #
blue-ultra Loc: New Hampshire
 
You can remove the small spots in the sky in LR. However I think you need to clean your sensor. If your camera does not have that feature you can bring it to a camera shop for a cleaning. Do not attempt to do this yourself unless the camera has a cleaning function.

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Sep 27, 2018 13:42:41   #
Rongnongno Loc: FL
 
abc1234 wrote:
This is the first of two panoramas being posted. Stitched from sixteen vertical files in LR. As you can see, I had a lot of trouble with the sky. It is uneven, off-color, and has a few small blotches I could not remove. I also do not like the curvature of the foreground but I guess this is inherent with this kind of shot. Although the picture lacks any specific item of interest, it is a reminder of my visit with my family to this location to plant saplings on this hillside being forested. I also wanted to capture the breadth of the vista.
This is the first of two panoramas being posted. ... (show quote)

Use PS CC to correct the perspective. It is easy to do. Use Image warp.

Note this is why you never auto crop a stitched image.

-

.

Sample correction.
Sample correction....

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Sep 27, 2018 17:35:53   #
abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois
 
Rongnongno wrote:
Use PS CC to correct the perspective. It is easy to do. Use Image warp.

Note this is why you never auto crop a stitched image.

-

.


Good suggestion. I never use auto crop because sometimes, you can fill in the blank areas with a credible content-aware fill.

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Sep 27, 2018 17:38:39   #
abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois
 
blue-ultra wrote:
You can remove the small spots in the sky in LR. However I think you need to clean your sensor. If your camera does not have that feature you can bring it to a camera shop for a cleaning. Do not attempt to do this yourself unless the camera has a cleaning function.


I have a Canon 80D that cleans the sensor when turning on and off. The strange thing was that I could see a spot when the picture was set to fit. However, at 1:1 or 2:1, I could not see it.

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Sep 28, 2018 07:26:38   #
BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD
 
Saw no parallax (stitching) errors in this one.
Curvature - as you speculated, this is inherent in the type of camera swing - the elements of the image are farther way from the sensor at the edges than at the center. It may, as Ron suggests, be correctible but I don't think so; if it can be done I'd like to know how.

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Sep 28, 2018 08:40:08   #
abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois
 
BboH wrote:
Saw no parallax (stitching) errors in this one.
Curvature - as you speculated, this is inherent in the type of camera swing - the elements of the image are farther way from the sensor at the edges than at the center. It may, as Ron suggests, be correctible but I don't think so; if it can be done I'd like to know how.


That makes two of us. I often have this problem in 180 degree panoramas.

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Sep 28, 2018 09:51:31   #
juan_uy Loc: Uruguay
 
abc1234 wrote:
That makes two of us. I often have this problem in 180 degree panoramas.

Which head an plate combination are you using? A nodal point head? A ball head with L-plate for vertical shots? Just a ball head?

I am really new in photography, just left P mode during last year, but for what I have seen, read and experienced (I like landscape and panoramas a lot) using just the ball head if taking vertical shots will render bad results (and it is very logic if you think about it).

Right now I am looking in getting an L-plate to use in vertical shots, not the ideal solution but better than using the ball head at 90° (and also for fast horizontal to vertical switch).
For horizontal shots (asuming only one or two rows) a long plate can be a cheap first-step option.

Probably someone with more knowledge/experience can correct me or add more info

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Sep 28, 2018 10:15:19   #
abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois
 
Hi Juan,

I am not an expert about panoramas and am largely self-taught. Therefore, I offer my experience cautiously. I find that for landscapes that do not have something important in the foreground, you do not have to consider the nodal point. Next point. Initially, I was compulsive about using a tripod and leveling it. That was not always possible as I panned around. Now, I shoot panoramas as I walk around which means I do not have a tripod. I typically shoot vertically and overlap about 50%. I also stay as steady as I can noting both the overlap and horizon. I usually stitched the unedited pictures in LR and then edit in both LR and PS. PS is mainly for filling in the blank areas since I do not crop automatically. If the content-aware gives me an unpleasant result, then I crop it away. When I select the blank areas, I expand the selection by about four pixels to avoid any seems.

I am in a hurry now and may have left something out. If you want more specific help, pm me.

Good luck Juan.


PS Out of forgetfulness, I leave auto focus and exposure on. Probably should not.

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Sep 28, 2018 11:37:27   #
BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD
 
Juan
Look at two places:
Nodal Ninja to get some info about panorama heads and PTGui to get a lot of information about making panoramas.
https://shop.nodalninja.com/
http://www.ptgui.com/

Couple of points:
Do not expect to make good panoramas with just an ordinary ball-head. You need to center the nodal point (the spot in the LENS) where the light crosses over directly over the rotation point - which is the center pole of your tripod. A ball head centers the sensor, not the lens' nodal point.

You can make nice panoramas doing it hand-held without going to the expense of a panorama head.

Look at the spot in the lens between 1/3 and 1/2 of the way out from the camera. Put the view finder to your eye then stick your foot out under that spot and hold it unmovable. Then hold your camera steady to your eye and rotate your entire body - don't just turn your head - after each shot - overlapping your images about 30%. Keep your camera level; make your settings before your first shot and then do not change anything - and that includes the focus - until you've made your last shot.

Hope this helps

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Sep 29, 2018 09:14:24   #
abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois
 
BboH wrote:
Juan
Look at two places:
Nodal Ninja to get some info about panorama heads and PTGui to get a lot of information about making panoramas.
https://shop.nodalninja.com/
http://www.ptgui.com/

Couple of points:
Do not expect to make good panoramas with just an ordinary ball-head. You need to center the nodal point (the spot in the LENS) where the light crosses over directly over the rotation point - which is the center pole of your tripod. A ball head centers the sensor, not the lens' nodal point.

You can make nice panoramas doing it hand-held without going to the expense of a panorama head.

Look at the spot in the lens between 1/3 and 1/2 of the way out from the camera. Put the view finder to your eye then stick your foot out under that spot and hold it unmovable. Then hold your camera steady to your eye and rotate your entire body - don't just turn your head - after each shot - overlapping your images about 30%. Keep your camera level; make your settings before your first shot and then do not change anything - and that includes the focus - until you've made your last shot.

Hope this helps
Juan br Look at two places: br Nodal Ninja to get... (show quote)


Bob, I can use some help with this. When you say between 1/3 and 1/2 of the way out from the camera, what is it way out to? Or do you have a youtube that shows this? One of my tripods has an adapter with a slot so I can move the camera back or forth. I wonder if this is a poor man's nodal adjustment.

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Sep 29, 2018 14:29:11   #
BboH Loc: s of 2/21, Ellicott City, MD
 
abc1234 wrote:
Bob, I can use some help with this. When you say between 1/3 and 1/2 of the way out from the camera, what is it way out to? Or do you have a youtube that shows this? One of my tripods has an adapter with a slot so I can move the camera back or forth. I wonder if this is a poor man's nodal adjustment.


"When you say between 1/3 and 1/2 of the way out from the camera, what is it way out to? "

abc1234:
The measurement is from where the lens mounts to the camera body; put your thumb on the camera's body at the lens mount and then spread your index finger out along the lens until you have reached the 1/3-1/2 point; if you are using a zoom lens, set the zoom and then do the measurement. Make a mental note of the point; put a rubber band around the lens at that point. Then, slide your foot out until the middle of the ball of your foot is under that lens point when the view-finder is at your eye. Imagine you have put a nail through your foot into the ground so that the foot will not move. As you take you shots, you rotate your entire body, not your head, around that nailed down spot; you are moving your heel.

"Slot to move the camera back and forth - poor man's nodal adjustment?" - The nodal point adjustment is both back and forth, as your slide will do and also side-to-side.
That rubber band we put on your lens has to be placed directly above the center pole of your tripod, if your slide can do that then yes, you have a "poor man's nodal adjustment".

a, if I've not been clear or you have another question be happy to try to answer
Bob

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Sep 29, 2018 19:05:41   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
Hi there. I was neither with you the day you were shooting, nor am I familiar with your subject landscape, but I'm pretty sure that the problem with the central area of your near ground resulted from the camera and lens not remaining level as you panned. Rongnongno's correction would seem to verify my theory...

I didn't see any mention of whether you used a tripod, but if you did, the appearance is that it was tilted back away from the center of the image. If handheld, it appears that you might have been aiming the lens higher for the frames in the center of the image and lower as you approached both edges. If this is the case, the fix is simply to be sure to level your tripod before doing anything else when setting up so that the center column will be perfectly vertical. Many have a built-in bubble level to help with this step. Once that is done so that the pan motion is perfectly horizontal, you can use the tripod adjustments to compose the image either up or down as you wish, and there will be no vertical distortion when you assemble your panned images. (There will still be other distortion(s) as you squeeze three dimensions of information onto a flat screen or piece of paper.)

This is why I prefer a 3-axis head instead of a ball head for panoramas...it gives much more control over camera movement and lets me make an adjustment in one plane without disturbing what I have set up in the other two planes.

Just a thought. Hope it helps for future images.

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Sep 29, 2018 23:30:05   #
abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois
 
BboH wrote:
"When you say between 1/3 and 1/2 of the way out from the camera, what is it way out to? "

abc1234:
The measurement is from where the lens mounts to the camera body; put your thumb on the camera's body at the lens mount and then spread your index finger out along the lens until you have reached the 1/3-1/2 point; if you are using a zoom lens, set the zoom and then do the measurement. Make a mental note of the point; put a rubber band around the lens at that point. Then, slide your foot out until the middle of the ball of your foot is under that lens point when the view-finder is at your eye. Imagine you have put a nail through your foot into the ground so that the foot will not move. As you take you shots, you rotate your entire body, not your head, around that nailed down spot; you are moving your heel.

"Slot to move the camera back and forth - poor man's nodal adjustment?" - The nodal point adjustment is both back and forth, as your slide will do and also side-to-side.
That rubber band we put on your lens has to be placed directly above the center pole of your tripod, if your slide can do that then yes, you have a "poor man's nodal adjustment".

a, if I've not been clear or you have another question be happy to try to answer
Bob
"When you say between 1/3 and 1/2 of the way ... (show quote)


I think I get it. Since I rarely have a tripod with me, I do rotate my body from the waist up until I get to the far side. Then, I move my feet. This is because most of my panoramas are 180 degrees or more. Panoramas are grab shots for me and not planned in advance. I have enough to carry without adding a tripod to the load.

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Sep 29, 2018 23:36:49   #
abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois
 
larryepage wrote:
Hi there. I was neither with you the day you were shooting, nor am I familiar with your subject landscape, but I'm pretty sure that the problem with the central area of your near ground resulted from the camera and lens not remaining level as you panned. Rongnongno's correction would seem to verify my theory...

I didn't see any mention of whether you used a tripod, but if you did, the appearance is that it was tilted back away from the center of the image. If handheld, it appears that you might have been aiming the lens higher for the frames in the center of the image and lower as you approached both edges. If this is the case, the fix is simply to be sure to level your tripod before doing anything else when setting up so that the center column will be perfectly vertical. Many have a built-in bubble level to help with this step. Once that is done so that the pan motion is perfectly horizontal, you can use the tripod adjustments to compose the image either up or down as you wish, and there will be no vertical distortion when you assemble your panned images. (There will still be other distortion(s) as you squeeze three dimensions of information onto a flat screen or piece of paper.)

This is why I prefer a 3-axis head instead of a ball head for panoramas...it gives much more control over camera movement and lets me make an adjustment in one plane without disturbing what I have set up in the other two planes.

Just a thought. Hope it helps for future images.
Hi there. I was neither with you the day you were... (show quote)


No tripod for this shot. See my other post. The problem with the foreground in this shot was sloppy content-aware fill on my part. I checked the original pan and the lines were correct. The sloppy lines is where I filled.

I have two tripods. My preferred one is heavier but does have the three-axis head. The head has two bubble levels but I use a three bubble one on the hot shoe. What perplexes me is that I cannot rotate 180 degrees without the horizontal hot shoe bubble moving a tad. Probably does not matter in reality. I am going shot a panorama, with and without the tripod to see how it comes out.

Thanks for the help.

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