Boy, talk about focus being touchy ...........
Now to learn how to control depth of field so the whole object is in focus. A ring flash probably would help.
Taken with the Sigma 150mm 2.8 APO Macro EX DG HSM lems with a Sigma 1.4x EX teleconverter.
Hard drive mounting screw
authorizeduser have you considered focus staking? Photoshop has this functionality built in and it works well... once you outgrow PS's version then look to zerene stacker which as become the industry standard for commercial work...
btw, your next investment should likely be a focusing rail... without one you'll not be able to produce viable results (experience is a brutal teacher)
Hope this helps or is at least food for thought...
all the best on your journey...
That's a good start. Keep shooting.
authorizeduser wrote:
Boy, talk about focus being touchy ...........
Now to learn how to control depth of field so the whole object is in focus.
Taken with the Sigma 150mm 2.8 APO Macro EX DG HSM lems with a Sigma 1.4x EX teleconverter.
Why the converter? While the macro will get you close, if you want to get it all in focus, try focus stacking or extension tubes.
Very nice first attempt. For all to be in focus depends on the depth of the object and the aperture and its depth of field. The closure you are focused the shallower the depth of field.
Another method is focus stacking which requires multiple exposures at different focal points and then some post processing.
Good luck and keep posting.
authorizeduser wrote:
Boy, talk about depth of field and focus being touchy ...........
Taken with the Sigma 150mm 2.8 APO Macro EX DG HSM lems with a Sigma 1.4x EX teleconverter.
Nice shot but did you take any other exposures with the focus slightly further away where the base of the screw is more in focus as well. What was your aperture and did you use a speedlite as the lighting is very crisp. A smaller aperture would increase the depth of field. Cheers! Ed
authorizeduser wrote:
Boy, talk about focus being touchy ...........
Now to learn how to control depth of field so the whole object is in focus. A ring flash probably would help.
Taken with the Sigma 150mm 2.8 APO Macro EX DG HSM lems with a Sigma 1.4x EX teleconverter.
Maybe you should stop down?
Thomas902 wrote:
btw, your next investment should likely be a focusing rail... without one you'll not be able to produce viable results (experience is a brutal teacher)
Hope this helps or is at least food for thought...
In lieu of a focusing rail, use the manual focus setting of the lens and/or the camera and slowly rack your lens in and out. You will be able to see the focus point of your subject more easily. Another hogger asked why the converter? This lens only focuses to 15" (.38 meter) and the converter does 2 things. In effect, it's an extension tube getting you closer to the subject and also increases the size of the subject 1.4x. This image of the screw appears to be 10x lifesize (?). Good first effort! Cheers. Ed
Welcome to the thrilling venue of macro photography! As your image shows, you will never run out of things to photograph indoors or out year-round. Yes, macro focus is razor thin and with narrow apertures (usually f11 or so) lighting is important because the lens is so close to the subject. For indoor shots you can use things like fixed LED lighting (inexpensive LED utility lights work very good) as well as something to reflect the light to negate cast shadows. I recommend using extension tubes in place of a teleconverter. They typically come in a set of three and they are quite inexpensive. They decrease the focal distance, which brings you closer, and thus increases magnification. You'll lose a stop or two of light depending on how many pieces of the tubes you use however you lose light with the teleconverter also. The advantage of extension tubes is that you can use any combination of them to meet your need.
Thanks to all who have commented with some nice suggestions. You help is greatly appreciated.
sippyjug104 wrote:
Welcome to the thrilling venue of macro photography! As your image shows, you will never run out of things to photograph indoors or out year-round. Yes, macro focus is razor thin and with narrow apertures (usually f11 or so) lighting is important because the lens is so close to the subject. For indoor shots you can use things like fixed LED lighting (inexpensive LED utility lights work very good) as well as something to reflect the light to negate cast shadows. I recommend using extension tubes in place of a teleconverter. They typically come in a set of three and they are quite inexpensive. They decrease the focal distance, which brings you closer, and thus increases magnification. You'll lose a stop or two of light depending on how many pieces of the tubes you use however you lose light with the teleconverter also. The advantage of extension tubes is that you can use any combination of them to meet your need.
Welcome to the thrilling venue of macro photograph... (
show quote)
Will look into LED lighting. Thanks for the tip!
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