Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

I found a drawer of various Mamiya TLR models I never got around to using, and a 330 pro looks ready to use. One of my first cameras was a Yashica TLR, which I loved, so I am going to try the 330 out. I rather like a solid, heavyset camera, so I seem to be in luck here--it is robust and healthy indeed.

Naturally I focus on the ground glass screen, and since I like smaller apertures, that is fine (especially with the magnifier built in). But if I wanted to use the sportsfinder instead, I am at a loss how to do it. I have the 105mm lens on it, and a 105mm sportsfinder mask, but just how much of the ground glass is masked depends entirely on how far back my eye is, looking throuigh. If you get reight up to the viewing opening, you see all the screen, and if you back up--well, it gets smaller and smaller.

Of course the thing is meant to be approximate (action shooting), but still--there ought to be some guidance about how to use it. Anybody here remember using this so you can guide me?

One could conduct careful tests to see what view matches the lens view, but I hope there is a rule of thumb that works well enough.

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

Don't use it any more, but I have a 330 with nearly all the lenses and accessories. I would recommend that you try to get a pentaprism or porroprism for your camera. They work well and makes everything right side up correct sideways. I don't think they are expensive at this time.


BTW, by using the 80mm lens along with the bellows adjustments and paramender, it can make an excellent closeup and macro camera.

polonois Loc: Lancaster County,PA.

I have a Pair of C330S in storage with all the lenses. I haven't used them in many years. I never fooled too much with sport finders. I am not sure what you are calling a sport finder. Sports finders are really just a mask that you look thru (installed on the waist level finder) which allow you to follow moving subjects without the left right viewing problem. Also the sports finders are not real accurate for framing. I remember with some lenses I would change the focus screen if I was shooting buildings. I also have a prism finder & a CdS Porrofinder but it is dim and has a parallax problem, it does help with exposure if you don't have a light meter. The instruction manual link below may help you. The second link explains the accessories and the different finders.

http://www.mamiyaleaf.com/assets/files/documentation/C330_Instructions.pdf

http://www.mamiyaleaf.com/assets/files/documentation/C330_Accessories.pdf

nikonbrain Loc: Crystal River Florida

Yes definitely the prism finder it also has a meter in it..

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

Thanks--I do have the porrofinder...

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

The user manual uses the term sportsfinder--it is built into the standard camera top. You are really just looking through a window to aim the camera--so it is brighter than the porrofinder. But the manual does not not discuss using it.

My question was how far do you hold it from your eye...

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

I used to use my C330 (back in the ‘70’s when we could shoot with flash ) shooting high school football for the newspaper. I used zone focus, the sports finder and waited for the action to come to me. It wasn't real accurate, but good to keep the subject centered and I usually cropped a lot. The porrofinder was pretty dark. The sports finder helped me stay safe: I was better aware of players were coming dangerously close to me at the sidelines.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

I don't have that camera, so can't directly answer your question.

However, you should be able to get a rough idea yourself....

Set up the camera on a tripod and pointed toward a flat wall, with the lens you want to use installed. Then focus on the wall and use some pieces of tape (your choice of color) to delineate the corners of the image seen through the standard waist level finder or porrofinder. Then look at the same through the sports finder and see how far away from the camera your eye needs to be to match up the framing of the sports finder with those tape marks. It will be difficult to repeat very precisely in actual use... so make some allowances for that.

polonois Loc: Lancaster County,PA.

I just held the camera about waist level and looked down.
Never had any problems. I shot quite a few weddings with the C330S before I purchased my RB and RZ 6x7"s.

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

Amfoto1, that may be what I have to do. I think it might be different for each lens... maybe not. I imagine they designed it for use at a sort of "natural" viewing distance to the "keyhole". I am used to large format, so typically I set up on a tripod and fiddle with everything slowly before shooting, but I was curious about the gadget.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Here is your solution.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mamiya-Sekor-Prism-Viewfinder-for-C220-and-C330-TRL-Cameras-in-Good-Shape/123252875829?hash=item1cb271a235%3Ag%3AMIYAAOSwYXBbTBwu&_sacat=0&_nkw=pentaprism+for+a+Mamiya+330&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

Thanks--I have that. You may be right. There is something to be said for the waist-level composition though--it centers people (full figure) vertically, for one thing. Whether that is good depends on the effect. It is not just perspective--the angles have a psychological effect. Looking down at the viewer suggests power over them, while looking up at them suggests vulnerability or respect... Many men prefer pictures of themselves suggesting the power that comes from height, while a picture of women looking up at them is more appealing. The waist level perspective is neutral and more politically in step today.

Of course, the perspective also affects proportion--for example, a full figure shot taken at head level will make the head appear slightly larger in proportion to the body (especially the feet) than it really is. When photographing a body builder, you do not want to diminish the muscles as they recede downward from the head, even slightly (the effect is increased by being closer because then the camera points downward).

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

This is really making me miss my C-330! Got my first as a high school graduation gift back in 1973. Cost $180 with the 80mm at the base exchange. Same price as the Nikon F with a 50 1.4.

Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY

I feel the same about my first medium format--a Yashica twin lens. It did not have all the Mamiya features, but took great pictures and was quite light. There was something nice about shooting with one lens--using what you have instead of rooting around in the camera bag. Even though the 330 has other lenses, I tend to take it out with one lens and find the images for that. Also, a camera without electronics of any kind is sort of miraculous, yes? It is mechanical--it is what it is and does what it does.

I have a C-22 and a C-33 in the drawer (older versions of 220 and 330), fine shape--make an offer in private message if you miss the twins (and the medium format, which still has some advantages over digital). I may sell the 330 too, but I am tempted to use it a bit first. I still have an enlarger in the shed.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Thanks for the offer.
I have a Yashicamat, just miss using the Mamiya. Liked my RB even better. 10 or 20 exposures a makes one slow down and think. No ready- fire-aim technique with that!