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Best Camera for "Street Photography"?
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Jul 8, 2018 12:27:22   #
Gene51 (a regular here)
 
Silverman wrote:
I am interested in "Street Photography", although I feel I need advice from more EXPERIENCED "Street Photographers", especially the "DO's & Don'ts", and also a would a DSLR or P&S be more advisable.
I presently have a Nikon AFS-C DX D3300 with a 35mm, 50mm, 18-55, 55-200 lens.
I have read other Posts here at UHH, just would appreciate some "FRESH" insight and Advice on "Street Photography".


Smartphone. Seriously. Try it.

https://www.picturecorrect.com/tips/street-photography-techniques-with-a-smartphone/
https://www.enlightapp.com/blog/mobile-street-photography-know/
https://www.thephoblographer.com/2016/07/04/better-street-photography-using-phone/

Just google street photography with cellphone

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Jul 8, 2018 12:31:06   #
AntonioReyna
 
I am considering a M5, having body crop and full frame bodies. How would you rate you M5? I am not interested in the M6 as I want a viewfinder.

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Jul 8, 2018 12:32:59   #
SteveR (a regular here)
 
Best street photography of people is B&W. Go with a prime. The lens may be more important than the camera. Graham Smith is probably the best street photographer of people on UHH that I've come across, my regards to all others.

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Jul 8, 2018 12:36:31   #
AntonioReyna
 
Best point of all. Any gear will work, it is the ability to relate with the people and situation that you are in that will produce a good or great shot. I still lament incredible shots that I missed in Miami and Tijuana because I froze when I should have shot.

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Jul 8, 2018 14:09:30   #
rgrenaderphoto (a regular here)
 
Silverman wrote:
I am interested in "Street Photography", although I feel I need advice from more EXPERIENCED "Street Photographers", especially the "DO's & Don'ts", and also a would a DSLR or P&S be more advisable.
I presently have a Nikon AFS-C DX D3300 with a 35mm, 50mm, 18-55, 55-200 lens.
I have read other Posts here at UHH, just would appreciate some "FRESH" insight and Advice on "Street Photography".


A DSLR can be intrusive unless you use a long lens and shoot from across the street. Something with a tilt screen would allow you to hold the camera at your waist and not be so obvious.
I found a medium sized mirrorless, like a Fuji X-T20 and the 18-55 lens ideal in street shooting situations.

National Geographic photographer Ira Block has a lot to say about this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrQJLyOub3A

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Jul 8, 2018 16:59:09   #
Architect1776 (a regular here)
 
AntonioReyna wrote:
I am considering a M5, having body crop and full frame bodies. How would you rate you M5? I am not interested in the M6 as I want a viewfinder.


Very good. I rented it and really enjoyed using it.

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Jul 8, 2018 17:06:28   #
le boecere
 
SteveR wrote:
Best street photography of people is B&W. Go with a prime. The lens may be more important than the camera. Graham Smith is probably the best street photographer of people on UHH that I've come across, my regards to all others.


"Graham Smith is probably the best street photographer of people on UHH..."

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Jul 8, 2018 17:13:15   #
le boecere
 
rgrenaderphoto wrote:
A DSLR can be intrusive unless you use a long lens and shoot from across the street. Something with a tilt screen would allow you to hold the camera at your waist and not be so obvious.
I found a medium sized mirrorless, like a Fuji X-T20 and the 18-55 lens ideal in street shooting situations.

National Geographic photographer Ira Block has a lot to say about this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrQJLyOub3A


To the OP:

"Something with a tilt screen would allow you to hold the camera at your waist and not be so obvious." For some types of "street photography", this is excellent advice. I think one needs to work with the idea for awhile to really appreciate this technique. I would add that the smaller the camera, the the less obvious. I'm a rookie, and I want to continue to appear to be just that, on "the street".

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Jul 9, 2018 04:18:07   #
rpavich
 
You know..it's not ALWAYS about not being obvious...sometimes it's about the opposite.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkIWW6vwrvM&frags=pl%2Cwn

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Jul 9, 2018 05:18:44   #
rook2c4 (a regular here)
 
rpavich wrote:
You know..it's not ALWAYS about not being obvious...sometimes it's about the opposite.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkIWW6vwrvM&frags=pl%2Cwn


I think a major downside to Gilden's method is that many subjects captured in the shots will have an obviously startled or annoyed look on their face - a typical reaction when a stranger jumps in front of you with a camera aimed at you. Besides, I'm not so sure many photographers actually have the nerve to pull off that kind of aggressive approach to street photography. I certainly don't.

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Jul 9, 2018 06:09:13   #
dragonking
 
I hope you don't object to me replying as I'm not a street photographer but when I do it on holiday or visiting a town, I like to use my extreme wide angle on my Nikon D5200.
I like the pictures I get and the people at the front of the image think you are focusing on a distant object, aren't bothered and act naturally.
You have to like the result of course!
If you want to take portraits of interesting people in the streets, go with the advice above.
As I said I'm not normally a street photographer.

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Jul 9, 2018 06:23:43   #
billnikon (a regular here)
 
Silverman wrote:
I am interested in "Street Photography", although I feel I need advice from more EXPERIENCED "Street Photographers", especially the "DO's & Don'ts", and also a would a DSLR or P&S be more advisable.
I presently have a Nikon AFS-C DX D3300 with a 35mm, 50mm, 18-55, 55-200 lens.
I have read other Posts here at UHH, just would appreciate some "FRESH" insight and Advice on "Street Photography".


When I did photojournalism (first street photography) I used a Nikon F with a Nikon 24 2.8 attached. We used the sunshine rule, f16 at a shutter speed that matched the ASA (today's ISO). For example, we used 1/400 sec. at f16 for ISO 400 tri-X film from about 10-2 PM then adjusted as the day went on. I would set my f16 and prefocus at about 15 feet and everything say from about 4 feet to infinity would be in focus, then I would just concentrate on expressions and emotions. Depth of field increases faster to the far end than the near end.
Today, if I were to do street photography again (which I won't because there is a different culture out their, folks see a camera pointed at them and they react, most times bad) I would use a 24 mm stopped down to at least f11 and again use my DSLR more as a point and shoot and concentrate on expressions and emotions. Again, the culture has changed. If I were at a Mermaid Parade at NYC I would not be so concerned, (the costumed parade goers expect it) but general on-the-street photography of people, those times have changed quite a bit from when I shot for newspapers in the 70's. Good luck and keep on shooting until the end.
Addendum: I shoot in NYC last year, if I saw someone that looked interesting I would ask if I might capture their likeness, I was turned down once in 20 attempts. But, I'm a good looking guy so I can get away with a lot more than most with the ladies.

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Jul 9, 2018 06:40:22   #
Fotojunkie66
 
in any search engine type in the name Eric Kim he is a world-renowned Street Photographer and gives a lot of free advice free e-books and so forth it would be worth a try.

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Jul 9, 2018 07:07:54   #
berchman (a regular here)
 
Silverman wrote:
I am interested in "Street Photography", although I feel I need advice from more EXPERIENCED "Street Photographers", especially the "DO's & Don'ts", and also a would a DSLR or P&S be more advisable.
I presently have a Nikon AFS-C DX D3300 with a 35mm, 50mm, 18-55, 55-200 lens.
I have read other Posts here at UHH, just would appreciate some "FRESH" insight and Advice on "Street Photography".


What screws most people up who are trying to do street photography is fear. Uppermost in their mind is the question: If they catch me photographing them what will they do? A little research will yield all kinds of sly behaviors to deal with this fear. One, for example, is the use of a wide angle lens that you don't aim directly at the subject, but they are included at the side of the frame, so you are pretending to photograph something other than the subject. My advice? Use a cellphone. You will achieve the least conspicuousness of any other photographic device. Using an app like ProCamera you can set it to release the shutter by touching any part of the screen and you can set the shutter speed too.

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Jul 9, 2018 07:08:19   #
rpavich
 
rook2c4 wrote:
I think a major downside to Gilden's method is that many subjects captured in the shots will have an obviously startled or annoyed look on their face - a typical reaction when a stranger jumps in front of you with a camera aimed at you. Besides, I'm not so sure many photographers actually have the nerve to pull off that kind of aggressive approach to street photography. I certainly don't.


I don't see that as a downside at all and neither does Mr. Gilden. That's part of the aesthetic of the images he's looking for.

I only mention it to say that it's not ALWAYS about being unobtrusive and invisible and getting shots without a reaction.

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